Help me brainstorm a scratch build... (1 Viewer)

[spressomon]

More doodles... this is a scale study. Note: a very ROUGH scale study.

Also, in the shot above the lid is just over the center section, however, I think I will make the lid the entire top of the trailer. The price of good latches has helped make this decision.

All these concepts were created in AutoCad .00001

Our Horizon has a drop down rear door...I would prefer, however, to have a vertically hinged door. Either way FYI we use the door rather than the hinged top to access the cargo box contents 90% of the time (but use and need them both). Also REZARF, above, you mentioned screwing aluminum plate to your 1x1 frame. I would use steel and weld it in place (or use aluminum tubing and aluminum plate). Screws = maintenance at some point on a trailer that will see it's fair share of vibrations.

And, although you have probably thought this through, use high quality automotive type weather stripping on all doors/lids.

Just my $.02

 

[REZARF]

Thanks guys, I really value both your imputs.

I will include a drop down tailgate for sure. It may swing out to the side if I dont bob the rear like I have drawn. Do you think I will scrape out back with a "squared" off back end?

I hear you on the steel, I have been thinking of ways to reduce weight, aluminum was one was of my options. I am leary of a good body panel seal/glue plus tons of sheet metal screws, welding is easier, and should hold a bit loger as well.

Exiled, are you suggesting something more like a tounge box for a freezer fridge up front, where you cooler is in the pics? I couldn't imagine not enclosing one of those high price units. Especially with all the gunk that will get thrown back at this thing.

One more question, I am considering getting 2000lb springs for my 3500lb axle, I can't see loading more than 1K of crap in this thing liquids included. And I cant see it being over 800lbs by itself. Any idea what your trailers run when you are loaded for bear?

Thanks!

Rezarf <><

 

[spressomon]

I do not actually know what my Horizon weighs completely loaded. I would estimate around 2,000lbs =/- (per AT the Horizon is 1,315lbs. dry as mine is equipped (actually mine is closer to 1,400lbs. now with the second battery )

 

[REZARF]

That is about what I figured.

I think I will try the lighter springs, or maybe just get the 3000# set and remove a few srings to get a good spring rate.

Rezarf <><

 

[Exiled]

Thanks guys, I really value both your imputs.


Exiled, are you suggesting something more like a tounge box for a freezer fridge up front, where you cooler is in the pics? I couldn't imagine not enclosing one of those high price units. Especially with all the gunk that will get thrown back at this thing.



Thanks!

Rezarf <><

Yes! Think of a fully enclosed box (with some strategically placed ventilation), that opens to one side and has one of those sliding trays for the fridge.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Caveat regarding tounge additions...

I can't stress the ability to safely "jack-knife" the trailer enough. What I'm referring to is the ability to let the trailer get perpendicular with the rig at any time without destroying your cooler, etc or the body on the tow rig. I found this to be very important after just a few hard trails with the trailer in tow.

Think about all the repositioning you do with your rig on a harder trail... now remember that each time you back up there is a trailer back there to consider.

 

[Exiled]

Caveat regarding tounge additions...

I can't stress the ability to safely "jack-knife" the trailer enough. What I'm referring to is the ability to let the trailer get perpendicular with the rig at any time without destroying your cooler, etc or the body on the tow rig. I found this to be very important after just a few hard trails with the trailer in tow.

Think about all the repositioning you do with your rig on a harder trail... now remember that each time you back up there is a trailer back there to consider.

Agreed 100%, before I extended the tongue on my M416 I had matching dents on the back of the Cruiser where the trailer tub hit it, on both sides, when jack-knifing the trailer on trails. That's pretty much how I came to the new tongue's measures, I wanted the ability to have the trailer (with the cooler basket accounted for), completely perpendicular to the Cruiser without the tub and body touching.

 

[REZARF]

Caveat regarding tounge additions...

I can't stress the ability to safely "jack-knife" the trailer enough. What I'm referring to is the ability to let the trailer get perpendicular with the rig at any time without destroying your cooler, etc or the body on the tow rig. I found this to be very important after just a few hard trails with the trailer in tow.

Think about all the repositioning you do with your rig on a harder trail... now remember that each time you back up there is a trailer back there to consider.

Makes sense, I have been designing with that in mind. Makes it really easy to measure for sure.

Thanks guys.

Rezarf <><

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Frazer, oops Rezarf

First off, I like your drawings and designs.

If your worried about having a squared off end in reference to scraping, I think your upward slant is going to be more prone to scraping than a squared off one. This is why; I have a Tentrax trailer. It is a tub style on a frame. The rear bumper extends past the tub approximately three inches. I've had it for five years. When I bought it, it was the pretty much the only one out there.

While on the Rubicon last spring I was dropping off a particular nasty edge of granite. The trailer bumper saved my tentrax from the rash. If my design would have left tub past the rear bumper it would have been comprimised. Also the upward slope or your tail design creates less usable space as it's diminishing towards the top. if your not going on the Rubicon, Fordyce and the like areas your design will work well.

I do really like your designs. They look good and if your not going to be dropping off three plus foot edges it should work.

My trailer rides on 35" mtr's Theres pics of it on expedition portal in the jeep forum.

best of luck, can't wait to see what you come up with.

 

[REZARF]

I can see what you are saying here, I was thinking of maximizing departure angle, but I will think it over, what you said makes a lot of sense.

Thanks!

Rezarf <><

 

[wesintl]

Looks good Drew. When does fabrication begin?

 

[REZARF]

Thanks Wes,

Still gathering parts. I have been amassing parts in reverse order of importance just in case I came across a deal on a whole trailer then I wouldn't be stuck with an axle, steel, and other "big ticket" items.

Right now I have:

Water tank 21 gallons
Shurflo water pump
On board shower system
Water Deck Fill
Rear tail lights (FJ40)
Front 8" pnuematic swivel wheel
Stove
Latern
Roof Top Tent
Mounting System
Tie down points
Recovery points
35" MTR's (two)
Latches for tailgate and lid
Trying to snag some used cruiser wheels off this cool dude I know

I am only able to buy a few things here and there, and I have been using Craigslist and Ebay to find deals, my MTR's had less than 1000 miles on them when the poor dude had two tires on his rig slashed by some kids. I got the other two "new" tires for $175 together! Trying to find deals like that to keep the cost down and my new wife okay with the time money needed to pull this off, it will be a slow build.

Axle is next. Once I buy that I can begin sticking things together and realizing everything I over looked. I still need to break down the electrical system. Been reading a lot on a second battery systems trailer wiring and junction boxes and little things like that.

What do you guys think about breaks on a trailer this size? They are 75 bucks to add them now from the factory... good deal?

Rezarf <><

 

[Degnol]

Drew, I think at that price, I'd add them. Where did you get your axle and hubs? I was going to use my take-off front spindles and hubs, but it turns out to be more of a PITA and maybe even cost as much as buying new.


Ed

 

[REZARF]

Ed-

www.abctrailerparts.com

Great guys there, answered all my questions, no charge for custom sizes, best prices I have found... even with shipping from Alabama to Colorado!

Rezarf <><

 

[Klunky Chris]

I can see what you are saying here, I was thinking of maximizing departure angle, but I will think it over, what you said makes a lot of sense.

Thanks!

Rezarf <><

I love the look of your trailer! I don't know if it's the best use of space, and I can see the departure angle issues, but from an industrial design standpoint I love it!
It just looks SOOOO cool!

Also should make backing a little easier with less stuff hanging out in pointy edges. not sure how *much* better, but a thought.

As for the overhang. What if you built the bottom corners and bottom rear out of really thick material. In that case, it could hold up to the bashing if it happened. The paint would be messed, but it gives it that *I actually USE this* look.

 

[rusty_tlc]

.....
What do you guys think about breaks on a trailer this size? They are 75 bucks to add them now from the factory... good deal?

Rezarf <><

I would do it, just make sure you can use them as an e-brake for the trailer. There have been so many times I wished for an e-brake on my 22' travel trailer, for that matter on my 12' utility trailer.

An e-brake is in the top five "Must have" options for any trailer I buy from now on.

Did I mention I think an e-brake is a good idea?

 

[VTFJ40]

With a squared off front or cooler up there, are you worried about rocks bouncing off?

Had a rock bounce off a snowmobile trailer go thru the rear window on my tacoma with amazing velocity (thought I was being shot at).

Maybe the front angled to the sides might be appropriate?

 

[spressomon]

I would do it, just make sure you can use them as an e-brake for the trailer. There have been so many times I wished for an e-brake on my 22' travel trailer, for that matter on my 12' utility trailer.

An e-brake is in the top five "Must have" options for any trailer I buy from now on.

Did I mention I think an e-brake is a good idea?

Ditto. The e-brake on ours is great (<2,000lb trailer...e-brakes are not just for large trailers)...really takes the load off of the LC brake system; allows shorter & safer stops; and will be an asset for tight trails where you might want the trailer, in a sharp turn situation, to scoot (by applying the e-brake) around an obstacle (like a boulder) rather than trying to climb over it...

 

[REZARF]

Well, enough with the collecting parts and designing and researching... time to get started and build.

Just ordered up my axle from...

www.abctrailerparts.com

Randy is the owner and I am getting a 3500lb axle, 6x5.5 hubs, spring perches, springs, ubolt kit, shackles, hangers, lug nuts, and easy lube hubs, and all the hardware to make it work...

...custom fabbed to my spec's 55" wide (trackwidth of my 40) all for...

$132.99!

plus another 60 shipped to my door! WHOO HOO!

Here we go...

Rezarf <><

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Very exciting, I can't wait to see this build!