Help ID-ing Radiator (1 Viewer)

[Brimley]

I have a 93 80. I live in a hot summer desert area, St. George, UT. A few years ago I started getting high temps on steeper grades off road. I flushed cooling system well and rebuilt fan clutch (15000 fluid). Every thing has been good until I built an off road trailer for camping, ~1250 lbs loaded. I am getting too hot (220*) on very steep , off road grades, 10* or more and at least a few miles long, even if cool out. Last trip, when hot out (106F), with air on,I hit 220* climbing a 6-7* grade about 6 miles long.

Question what radiator do I Have? It looks newer. Is a better one an option? Pictures:

 

[baldilocks]

It could be any one of several different oem imposters with plastic tanks and aluminum core. Who knows it’s internal condition? Maybe that can clutch needs thicker oil or to be replaced. Your temps don’t really sound outrageous for dragging a trailer up hill off road with AC on in 100+ degree outside temps. What color is the hub on your fan clutch?

 

[Brimley]

Picture of rig and trailer

It could be any one of several different oem imposters with plastic tanks and aluminum core. Who knows it’s internal condition? Maybe that can clutch needs thicker oil or to be replaced. Your temps don’t really sound outrageous for dragging a trailer up hill off road with AC on in 100+ degree outside temps. What color is the hub on your fan clutch?

Black Hub

 

[baldilocks]

My rig is a 93 and I have two black hub clutches. They are said to possess a larger area for shearing the oil and therefor shouldn’t need as heavy of an oil. The one I’m currently running has 20k oil and no adjustments to opening temp. It seems to work well. If you can do what you are doing without the AC cutting off (226 degrees coolant temp) I think you are doing pretty good. Of course, our curiosities can be cured by breaking out the wallet and replacing parts too. Nice looking set up there....

 

[Brimley]

My rig is a 93 and I have two black hub clutches. They are said to possess a larger area for shearing the oil and therefor shouldn’t need as heavy of an oil. The one I’m currently running has 20k oil and no adjustments to opening temp. It seems to work well. If you can do what you are doing without the AC cutting off (226 degrees coolant temp) I think you are doing pretty good. Of course, our curiosities can be cured by breaking out the wallet and replacing parts too. Nice looking set up there....

I concerned that the temp appeared to still be climbing when I got to the top of the grades. I am thinking of trying a Leland radiator or the TYC but am worried I may already have the TYC so it won't be an upgrade.

I put 15 k oil in so maybe Ill go to 20k. I had dreams of upgrading to a hard side teardrop off road trailer with brakes but now have concerns the cooling system won't handle it.

 

[Cruzerman]

Even though I don't live where it gets all that hot (Western Oregon), we do get some hot days and I also like going out to the desert in summer. When I did the oil change, I was advised to go 30K on the oil from the AZ crew.

 

[baldilocks]

Even though I don't live where it gets all that hot (Western Oregon), we do get some hot days and I also like going out to the desert in summer. When I did the oil change, I was advised to go 30K on the oil from the AZ crew.

Kevin never advised 30k in the black hub clutch due to its greater shearing area over the “wimpy” blue hub clutch. I’m quite sure he suggested 15k in the black hubs. With 20k mine roars on cold start up until I’m well down the street from my house and is obviously pulling a lot of air when hot.

 

[baldilocks]

I concerned that the temp appeared to still be climbing when I got to the top of the grades. I am thinking of trying a Leland radiator or the TYC but am worried I may already have the TYC so it won't be an upgrade.

I put 15 k oil in so maybe Ill go to 20k. I had dreams of upgrading to a hard side teardrop off road trailer with brakes but now have concerns the cooling system won't handle it.

There may be a sticker or other markings somewhere on the lower tank that will tell you what brand the radiator is.

Did you fill the clutch completely? This amount should be 45ml. I squeezed a few extra ml into mine.

Have you ever replaced the thermostat? Have you drained enough coolant from the radiator to be able to look inside the filler neck and inspect for mineral deposits that may be blocking the tubes?

Maybe consider a coolant/water ratio of 30/70 since your in a hot climate and water cools better than antifreeze.

This may sound crazy but turning the AC off for those toughest situations will help quite a bit.

 

[Brimley]

Thanks to all for the suggestions.

At last flush, I didn't see any corrosion under the cap.

I'll pull the skid and see if I can find a sticker or marking on the Rad. It's tempting to just get a new one as they are not that much in the major scheme of things. Its more a time to install factor.

I'm running at least 50% anti freeze. So it's time to flush again and I'll go to 30% anti freeze.

Its only been a few thousand miles since I rebuilt the fan clutch but probably at least 4 or 5 years. Do they possibly leak? I'll test it again.

Best to all,

 

[Brimley]

Kevin never advised 30k in the black hub clutch due to its greater shearing area over the “wimpy” blue hub clutch. I’m quite sure he suggested 15k in the black hubs. With 20k mine roars on cold start up until I’m well down the street from my house and is obviously pulling a lot of air when hot.

I put in mostly 20k with some 10k, shooting for at lest 15k. It's been fine other than flogging it with the trailer up steep grades.

 

[-Spike-]

I am thinking of trying a Leland radiator or the TYC but am worried I may already have the TYC so it won't be an upgrade.

On the TYC, the small nipple coming off the top tank doesn't have a barb. It's just a smooth tube.

In any case, 'it looks newer' doesn't mean anything. It's at least several years old, possibly several decades, so even if it were the very best radiator ever built, it could be crap now. Every time I've had issues like yours, replacing the rad has fixed it when other options didn't.

 

[Brimley]

On the TYC, the small nipple coming off the top tank doesn't have a barb. It's just a smooth tube.

In any case, 'it looks newer' doesn't mean anything. It's at least several years old, possibly several decades, so even if it were the very best radiator ever built, it could be crap now. Every time I've had issues like yours, replacing the rad has fixed it when other options didn't.

So, Just checked . The small nipple does have a barb. And I have had the cruiser for 10 years. So, sounds like a replacement is a good idea.

Did a stock 93 Rad have copper tanks?

 

[Cruzerman]

Kevin never advised 30k in the black hub clutch due to its greater shearing area over the “wimpy” blue hub clutch. I’m quite sure he suggested 15k in the black hubs. With 20k mine roars on cold start up until I’m well down the street from my house and is obviously pulling a lot of air when hot.

I think you're right. I was installing a new "wimpy" blue. Good catch.

 

[-Spike-]

So, Just checked . The small nipple does have a barb. And I have had the cruiser for 10 years. So, sounds like a replacement is a good idea.

Did a stock 93 Rad have copper tanks?

Nope, plastic tanks, brass core. However, the plastic tank/aluminum core in the later years is better. I usually put in '96 when searching for rads.

 

[baldilocks]

Nope, plastic tanks, brass core. However, the plastic tank/aluminum core in the later years is better. I usually put in '96 when searching for rads.

Whoever used brass for the core? Tanks maybe. Copper was the go to core.

 

[Drake1990]

I was having a similar issue and purchased a Koyo A1918 along with a land tank upgraded fan clutch. Changed the thermostat and water pump with OEM parts while I was there. Since then I haven’t gotten over 190 degrees on climbs. I’m pretty sure the old radiator was the culprit.

 

[-Spike-]

Whoever used brass for the core? Tanks maybe. Copper was the go to core.

Semantics. I doubt the core was pure copper, as it's too soft. Typically cores are copper/brass.

 

[ppc]

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc so if someone states they have a copper core most likely it is really brass alloy with a somewhat smaller percentage of zinc. From my observation the first picture the OP posted looks like an OEM part. The small nipple does not have a barb just a expanded round protrusion on the very end to keep the hose and clamp from slipping off.

 

[Brimley]

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc so if someone states they have a copper core most likely it is really brass alloy with a somewhat smaller percentage of zinc. From my observation the first picture the OP posted looks like an OEM part. The small nipple does have a barb just a expanded round protrusion on the very end to keep the hose and clamp from slipping off.

The "barb" is just as you describe.

 

[baldilocks]

Semantics. I doubt the core was pure copper, as it's too soft. Typically cores are copper/brass.

Thanks for the clarification Spike. I once had a beagle named Spike. It’s just semantics ...... but that dog would run a rabbit all day long.