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HELP, HELP,2F distributor reinstallation?

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by ERICH, Mar 23, 2004.

  1. ERICH

    ERICH

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    Alright, I been replacing the some gaskets and to replace the pushrod cover gasket I had to remove the distributor. I took a before photo and made marks as well. I really had to pull to get it free and when it did pop out very suddenly something must have moved a little because when I put it back in the rotor points about a half to one centimeter from where it was. Since it can only go in two ways is it still going to be timed properly. I ask because I 'm not done so I haven't put the fluids in so I haven't
    started it up yet.
    Thanks guys in advance.
    ERICH

    THE NEW PART OF POST, HELP!!!!
    I want to scream F**K a thousand times, I got it all back together oil pan gasket, pushrod cover gasket, valve cover gasket, changed the radiator, T-stat, EGR to exh manifold gasket, installed a new wire to manifold temp sensor, new pcv valve, new air filter, and filled it back up with fluids. It wouldn't start, I thought I must have broken a wire, I couldn't find one. Then I noticed it would do what seemed like dieseling for a few seconds after I would let off the ignition, with the choke halfway out, so I knew I was getting some spark. I tried it with the choke all the way out, nope. I then tried something I don't even like to think about, adjusting the timing, after moving it around a bit I could get it to stumble at about 500 rpm for about 20 seconds with a back fire every once in a while until one of the back fires would make it stall. Then I thought maybe it is just 180 out of phase so I removed distributor and pointed the rotor the other way. It was even worse, even more back firing and with intermitent snaps as well, also the smell of gas was much more pronouced. I obviously don't really know how to do the timing, I worry I would mistake tdc with the compression stroke, so I have never learned. I thought that since I had gotten it back in the first time close to where it was I just could line up my marks and it would start right up. Was it in the right direction the first time I put it in? Is something else broken? I have three other FJ60's so a spare part is not a problem. IF the distributor moved a little the first time did it also move the engine a little? I don't have a timing gun and right now we have no desposable income for my wife has been unemployeed for several months.
    Any advice would be great.
    ERICH
     
  2. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Re:2F distributor reinstallation?

    Well,

    If you have not rotated the engine, then you should be fine, and be able to get it back dead on with the adjustment available..

    Good luck!

    -Steve
     
  3. jeffroid

    jeffroid

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    2F distributor reinstallation?

    Even though you were very careful with taking photos and making sure nothing turned while the distributor was out, it still doesn't mean your distrubutor is necessarily going to slip right back in. The last time I had mine out, I was as careful as humanly possible and still had to end up using a long screwdriver and flashlight to turn the oil pump so that it would engage with the distributor and and allow it to slip back in properly. I don't think that's unusual, especially as you describe having to really pull on the distributor and having it pop out.
     
  4. ERICH

    ERICH

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    I want to scream F**K a thousand times, I got it all back together oil pan gasket, pushrod cover gasket, valve cover gasket, changed the radiator, T-stat, EGR to exh manifold gasket, installed a new wire to manifold temp sensor, new pcv valve, new air filter, and filled it back up with fluids. It wouldn't start, I thought I must have broken a wire, I couldn't find one. Then I noticed it would do what seemed like dieseling for a few seconds after I would let off the ignition, with the choke halfway out, so I knew I was getting some spark. I tried it with the choke all the way out, nope. I then tried something I don't even like to think about, adjusting the timing, after moving it around a bit I could get it to stumble at about 500 rpm for about 20 seconds with a back fire every once in a while until one of the back fires would make it stall. Then I thought maybe it is just 180 out of phase so I removed distributor and pointed the rotor the other way. It was even worse, even more back firing and with intermitent snaps as well, also the smell of gas was much more pronouced. I obviously don't really know how to do the timing, I worry I would mistake tdc with the compression stroke, so I have never learned. I thought that since I had gotten it back in the first time close to where it was I just could line up my marks and it would start right up. Was it in the right direction the first time I put it in? Is something else broken? I have three other FJ60's so a spare part is not a problem. IF the distributor moved a little the first time did it also move the engine a little? I don't have a timing gun and right now we have no desposable income for my wife has been unemployeed for several months.
    Any advice would be great.
    ERICH
     
  5. dd113

    dd113

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    Give up on the "get it back like it was plan" Wont happen. Turn the motor around until the timing bubble is on the line. Make sure it is correct by removing #1 sparkplug and visually ensure the piston is at the top. get a flashlight and shine it down the hold and, using a screwdriver, turn the oil pump slot to point towards #4 plug. Orient the dist in its corrct attitude. Turn the rotor so that it points @ 90" to the block. Stick it in and wiggle it around a bit to get it to go through the cam gear. It will eventually plop into place. Do not try to start it. Spin the motor and ensure oil pressure then start it. Usually you will need to move the dist around a bit to get it to fire up. No need for a timimg light to get it to run. Really no need for one at all. it either runs good or doesnt.
     
  6. ERICH

    ERICH

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    dd113
    If the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with the bubble and the piston is not at the top of the cylinder, does that mean that it is on the exhaust stroke? If this is the case, that it is not at the top, where will it be at the bottom?
    Thanks for your advice.
    ERICH
     
  7. offcamber40

    offcamber40

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    If you have the bb in the timing window lined up with the pointer and the No 1 cylinder is not at the top of the stroke, it means that you are 180 out. Turn the motor one full rotation until the bb is again line up and that should be 7 degrees Before TDC on Cylinder No 1. You should be able to stick a screwdriver down in there and get it to line up fairly close to your picture.. When you took the pick, was the motor at TDC on Number 1? It should go back together fairly easily.

    Mike

    After re-reading this post, I am confused though, two rotations of the crank should equal one rotation of the cam, but in both cases, the bb in the timing window should equal (very close, 7 degrees off) the top of the stroke on cylinder no one be it either the exhaust stroke or the compression stroke.. Something else is wrong if your engine is not at the top of its stroke in either instance.. try spinning the motor 7 degrees farther and check the piston location when the timing window poiter is lined up with the "line" on the flywheel.. this is true TDC. You should have the piston all the way up at this point whether you are 180 out or not.
     
  8. ERICH

    ERICH

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    Offroadcamber40
    I haven't checked yet. It wasn't at tdc when I removed it. I'm just going to try it in a little bit and I didn't want to install the distributor 180 out of phase. What I'm really trying to find out is now that my distributor is totally in wrong how do I distinguish the compression stroke from the exhaust stroke?
    Thanks everybody.
    ERICH
    P.S. I didn't do TDC initially because I thought I could keep every from moving arround, I realize this was stupid.
     
  9. offcamber40

    offcamber40

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    The easiest way is to watch the valvetrain as you rotate the crank.. TDC on number 1 is visibly noticeable becasue both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.. If you are 180 out, the Exaust valve will be open (it will look like the spring is compressed/down).. Thats the easiest I can think of.

    Good Luck.

    Mike
     
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  10. ERICH

    ERICH

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    Thanks, I had been told that by someone, whose opinion I trust I just wanted to make sure that I understood correctly.
    Here goes nothing?
    ERICH