Help getting back on the road after long rebuild process...

Joined
Jan 4, 2009
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87
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Holland, MI
I have been in a slow process of rebuilding my motor for awhile now and I need some help with the final steps. I have everything put back together and everything seems to be working properly, how ever it does not run and there are a few issues that I need some input on.

1. Timing- I believe I have it timed properly but this may be why it is not starting. First I have the BB, the needle the rotor and all that pointing in the proper position. I tried starting it the first time and it didnt fire. So I tried rotating the motor 360 deg. hoping it would fire this time, it still did not. The first way I had it timed, when piston #1 reached top dead center and started its way back down the valve on the left (if looking at the block from the side of the plugs) followed it down where as the second way I had it timed the valve on the right followed the piston down. By giving you this info can you determine which timing position is correct? Also could being a tooth off prevent it from starting even though the timing is very close? ( note: Because of problem #2 below, I have only been trying to get it started with starting fluid.) Also is timing being off the most likely reason it isnt firing right now?

2. Fuel- Before I took the motor out, everything was functioning perfectly except for a blown head gasket. Now with everything back together I can not seem to get fuel to the fuel filter. I put new gas in it and cranked the key to try to get fuel moving through the lines again with no luck. It has been siting for almost a year now so does this indicate that my fuel pump is bad or are my lines plugged or???

3. Header- Since I could not get gas to the carb the proper way, I tried just pouring some gas into the carb and looked down only to find most of it back on the floor? Seems to be coming near the header, would this indicate a header leak?

Any help or suggestions on these topics or getting helen back up and running would be great!
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
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Central Valley, CA
The first valve, the one at the very front of the head, is the exhaust valve and the second one is the intake valve for the number one piston. When the piston goes down and the intake opens, it is sucking in air and gas, the next time it comes up, both valves should be closed, and that is the compression stroke. When the piston gets to the top on that stroke and the line is visible in the timing window, that is TDC. Or you can just plug the spark plug hole with your finger and turn the motor slowly, when air starts to blow past your finger, you are on the compression stroke. Then line your distributor rotor up with the number one plug on the cap.

Fill the bowl of the carb by pouring gas carefully into the bowl vent (search). This should give you enough to run the engine long enough to get the pump to fill the rest.
 

2mbb

SILVER Star
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You should probably also adjust the valve lash. This also requires finding TDC on compression vs. exhaust strokes, therefore if you did it backwards you will have to do it again. You can do a search for "valve adjustment" and look for post's I have done. I have posted up a little table that will help you with setting the valve lash correct.

The distributor timing needs to be set 7deg BTDC (pointer on the BB) on the compression stroke. As mentioned above, you can put your thumb over the spark plug hole or you can wiggle the rocker arms for the exhaust (front) and intake (2nd one back) valves. Both rocker arms should be loose (valves closed) when on the compression stroke). Loose means there should be a feeler gauge gap of about .014" and .008" for exhaust and intake valves respectively.

If you have a large enough leak on the combination gasket to leak gas out the header, you may not have a good seal on the intake. I don't know that dumping gas into the intake is really going to provide the atomization of fuel into the air that is required to start the engine. It might be better to try starting fluid, or fill the bowl as mentioned above.

Regarding the fuel pump, if it worked before, I would take off the discharge hose and crank the engine to see if you can get the pump primed. It should not need it, but maybe your needle valve on the carb is stuck closed or something.
 
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Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Messages
87
Location
Holland, MI
You should probably also adjust the valve lash. This also requires finding TDC on compression vs. exhaust strokes, therefore if you did it backwards you will have to do it again. You can do a search for "valve adjustment" and look for post's I have done. I have posted up a little table that will help you with setting the valve lash correct.

The distributor timing needs to be set 7deg BTDC (pointer on the BB) on the compression stroke. As mentioned above, you can put your thumb over the spark plug hole or you can wiggle the rocker arms for the exhaust (front) and intake (2nd one back) valves. Both rocker arms should be loose (valves closed) when on the compression stroke). Loose means there should be a feeler gauge gap of about .014" and .008" for exhaust and intake valves respectively.

If you have a large enough leak on the combination gasket to leak gas out the header, you may not have a good seal on the intake. I don't know that dumping gas into the intake is really going to provide the atomization of fuel into the air that is required to start the engine. It might be better to try starting fluid, or fill the bowl as mentioned above.

Regarding the fuel pump, if it worked before, I would take off the discharge hose and crank the engine to see if you can get the pump primed. It should not need it, but maybe your needle valve on the carb is stuck closed or something.

Thank you for the detailed response. Call me a newb, but for some odd reason I never even thought of the valves being out of adjustment and I bet thats one of the main reasons it is starting up. I guess I just heard the guy who rebuilt the head say it should be all set and within spec so I never even thought to mess with it. Ill give that a whirl tomorrow and see what happens. I think after adjusting the valves and re-timing it, she should be back up and in working order. You may have solved the missing part to my puzzle! :cheers:
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
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Holland, MI
Got it to run for a minute today off of starting fluid and couldnt be happier! Adjusted the vlaves, they were way out of wack, and she started right up, thanks 2mbb. Newb mistake I guess but its my first time doing a rebuild so you gotta cut me a little slack. Now... the fuel delivery issue. Still cant get gas even to the fuel filter. So this means either my fuel lines are plugged or the fuel sending unit in the tank is bad correct? Everything was working properly when I started the rebuild process but it has been sitting for almost a year. Would it make more sense to be the fuel sending unit or the lines?
 
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Portland OR
On the 60 there will be no sending unit in the tank. Fuel is pulled out of the tank by the fuel pump located on the passenger side of the block. A year dry could cause cracks in the diaphram of that pump which would mean no suction power. So potential your fuel pump is bad or that you do have some plugged fuel lines. If there was old gas left in the system it may be gumming up and causing a clog in the lines or at the pick up tube in the fuel tank. You could always pull the fuel line off the pump and blow some air in it to see if you can hear bubbles in the gas tank (take off the cap to hear, probably a two person job).
 
Joined
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Near Charlottesville, VA
My bet is the fuel pump. I have replaced 2 of them on my 60. The first one was just bad from sitting. the second was my fault. I had a terrible gas tank with 7 yr old gas and it clogged the fuel pump so I blew air through it and it destroyed the diaphram instantly. If you have tried blowing air through the lines you most likely damaged the pump. I learned that they are very fragile internally. The eaisiest way to test it is to get a very small container of gas and connect a hose to the inlet of the pump and the otherside into your container of gas. For the outlet of the pump you can just unbolt the hard line from the carb (put a rag under it, it will be messy if its working) Once you have the hardline unbolted just crank the motor a couple of times. If there is no gas you know its your pump.

The good thing about these pumps is they only take about 10-15 min to replace and are not that expensive.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
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Holland, MI
Thank you for the responses on the last issue, I got it up and running now and everything seems to be done except for what should be my last issue. I installed a brand new clutch durring the rebuild and am now having troubles with it. Once the vehichle has been started in nuetral, with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor, I can not shift the tranny into any gear? If I start the car in first gear, it wont shift in and out of gear and it seems to make a weird whinning chattering noise while the car idles? Is this issue still realted to the clutch pedal addjustments or is there something else I should be looking for? After I resolve this issue, I beleive my landcruiser will drive itself out of the garage under its own power for the first time in a year!
 
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Have you taken the flywheel cover off from underneath and looked up to see if the fork is engaging and disengaging? When I put my motor back in, one of the clips that holds the fork to the bearing housing had popped off...is the fork on its pivot ball in there... Did you replace the pilot and throwout bearings....Clutch alignment issue (how did you align it)... The clutch linkage at the fork installed properly.... Did you open the clutch system at all (may need to be bled like brakes)...Is the tranny housing fully seated flush with the bellhousing.... Just throwing out off the top of my head things I would check.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
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Holland, MI
Have you taken the flywheel cover off from underneath and looked up to see if the fork is engaging and disengaging? When I put my motor back in, one of the clips that holds the fork to the bearing housing had popped off...is the fork on its pivot ball in there... Did you replace the pilot and throwout bearings....Clutch alignment issue (how did you align it)... The clutch linkage at the fork installed properly.... Did you open the clutch system at all (may need to be bled like brakes)...Is the tranny housing fully seated flush with the bellhousing.... Just throwing out off the top of my head things I would check.

Yes I have taken the fly wheel cover off and everything, from what I can tell, seems to be opereating properly. However, I did notice when putting it back together that one of the clips on the fork was missing, didn't think much of it, ill replace this tomorrow see if it helps. Replaced both bearings. Aligned it with a clutch alignment tool. Have bled the entire system so that fluid is 100% new. I will retourque the bolts conecting the bellhousing to the motor and see if that helps. Could it still be a clutch adjustment issue?
 
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Oct 1, 2010
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Lubbock Tx
Bleed the slave cylinder and check the fork, also did you put the friction plate in backwards? The long side of the splined section faces the flywheel. GL
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
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Holland, MI
Bleed the slave cylinder and check the fork, also did you put the friction plate in backwards? The long side of the splined section faces the flywheel. GL

I have had a terrible feeling in my gut, since the clutch started having issues, that the plate was in backwards :bang:. Im trying eliminate all other possibilities before pulling out the tranny though. Hope fully I will get this settled today and I dont need to pull it.
 
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Dundee, Oregon
I had a similar issue and it turned out I had a defective pressure plate. Have someone push the clutch pedal in while you check for disengagement. Not just on the bottom side that is visible but all the way around. You should be able to spin the clutch disc by hand when the pressure plate is disengaged. Mine did exactly what you were describing and was only releasing on 2/3 of the plate.

Also I am not being argumenative but the way I remember it is the long side of the splined portion of disc actually points towards the trannsmission. It should be pretty obvious which way the disc goes in.

Good luck

Clint
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Messages
87
Location
Holland, MI
I had a similar issue and it turned out I had a defective pressure plate. Have someone push the clutch pedal in while you check for disengagement. Not just on the bottom side that is visible but all the way around. You should be able to spin the clutch disc by hand when the pressure plate is disengaged. Mine did exactly what you were describing and was only releasing on 2/3 of the plate.

Also I am not being argumenative but the way I remember it is the long side of the splined portion of disc actually points towards the trannsmission. It should be pretty obvious which way the disc goes in.

Good luck

Clint

So I had some one sit in the car and press the clutch pedal a couple of times for me, and I found that the part of the clutch disk that's visable, for sure disengages the fly wheel but still does not spin freely. So I'm guessing like you said it is getting hung up at the top, was there any way you found to check that with out pulling everything apart? Could anything else be the culprit for the top of the disck not being able to disengage?
 
Joined
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Holland, MI
Update, the clutch disc now does indeed spin freely. However it does take some effort to spin it.... I thought maybe it could be my tranny not tourqued to the bellhousing propely, causing misalignment but its still doing the same thing.
 

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