Help figuring out which lift kit will meet my needs... (1 Viewer)

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I have 99 Land Cruiser that will be used solely for off-roading and overland camping. I am in the planning stages of my lift kit, but am not very knowledgeable so I would like some suggestions as what to get for my needs. I live on the west coast and will primarily be using this truck in the Sierra Nevada's along with trips to the PNW and hopefully Utah/Arizona. I want to push the limits of this truck without spending $5k on a long travel kit; I'm not trying to build a rock crawler (duh). I want to get the most value for my money, splurge where its most effective, and save money where possible, if that makes sense. I'm thinking some sort of 2.5" lift with UCA's and a diff drop?

I plan to put 33's on the truck, steel sliders and skids, a front winch bumper, a dual swing out rear bumper, and build my own drawer system in the back. I will be traveling with two adults and two kids.

For this set up and my intended use, what do you all suggest? Thanks!
 
A few options that come to mind:

Slinky Kit:

Just Differentials Kit :

Slee Off-road Kit:

Dobinsons IMS (or IMS/MRA) Kit:

Ironman 4x4 Kit:
 
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I don’t have a Pro, but I think the best way to go would be to explore what Coach Builder has to offer. I think their simcast Pro kit is awesome as it allows save Fox Shocks that are perfectly tuned for the Toyota.
 
This is a Dobinsons IMS setup along with a drop diff, SPC uppers, LCA reinforcements, metal drawer unit, rear bumper with swingouts. It was an enjoyable ride in Colorado. Though its normal habitat is much more demanding.

It was strictly built for off-road use. It will never be a daily driver. It's heavy and it has a plush ride on highways and trails. It handles paved mountain switchbacks and curvy roads more like a sports truck than a lumbering 6,900 lb SUV.


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This is where off-roading starts to get demanding when I'm back home in the Ozarks. I often drive over a rock pile that I cannot see for being covered with water. The shocks need to absorb the bumps while allowing me to maintain control. The rest of the suspension takes a beating. Note the rock pile to the front left (passenger) side.

I need a constant lift with a 2" front with 3+" rear to help keep water out of the passenger compartment. Water crossings are taken at higher speeds so water doesn't get a chance to creep in. I need the lift to be constant and predictable. Sometimes the crossing levels will reach 3.5' to 4' with the current.

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The creek beds are full of rocks. When the water is up I cannot see what I'm traversing.

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The lower control arms take a pounding from the smaller rocks. The top-mounted piston is up away from the rock strike area. Rocks bounce off of the shock's lower rubber boot. The boot protects the shaft from damage.

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Extended droop (24.75") for the front IMS 60786 works well in this environment where you never know when that innocent-looking mud hole has a sharp drop off. Although my right (passenger) front dropped into a hole the left (driver) rear wheel stayed in contact with the trail.

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Will you be installing your own suspension or outsourcing it to a shop? You can save a lot of money if you do it yourself.

Since you have a 99 model like me with a 2-pinion front diff, you may have some money left over to upgrade your front diff to a 4-Pinion front diff with some type of an eLocker.

I made that upgrade along with the suspension. The front locker on a 98-99 LC without ATRAC, makes a difference.
 
Will you be installing your own suspension or outsourcing it to a shop? You can save a lot of money if you do it yourself.

Since you have a 99 model like me with a 2-pinion front diff, you may have some money left over to upgrade your front diff to a 4-Pinion front diff with some type of an eLocker.

I made that upgrade along with the suspension. The front locker on a 98-99 LC without ATRAC, makes a difference.

Is there a specific 4 pinion diff you recommend? Or do you swap in a 2000-06 front diff? I did not think about this, but I will add this to the list.

I was planning on installing my own suspension. What about installing the front locker, did you DIY? My gut reaction is that seems like it's beyond my skill set... Does it require any specialty tools?
 
Is there a specific 4 pinion diff you recommend? Or do you swap in a 2000-06 front diff? I did not think about this, but I will add this to the list.

I was planning on installing my own suspension. What about installing the front locker, did you DIY? My gut reaction is that seems like it's beyond my skill set... Does it require any specialty tools?

IMO for the price Zuk charges, it's not worth trying to DIY the locker. Just drop it, put it in a box, and ship it to the pro.
 
Is there a specific 4 pinion diff you recommend? Or do you swap in a 2000-06 front diff? I did not think about this, but I will add this to the list.

I was planning on installing my own suspension. What about installing the front locker, did you DIY? My gut reaction is that seems like it's beyond my skill set... Does it require any specialty tools?

Good point about using a 2000+ model 4-pinion diff. That will help if you don't go for a 4-pinion locker.

I've been extremely pleased with the Harrop eLocker. Simple to install great reputation. Here's the important part. It has saved me hundreds if not more in avoiding two recovery bills that would have been extremely costly, time-consuming, and expensive. The times when it got me out of an expensive situation happened when I used it in reverse to back out of an impossible situation where the rear wheels were tipped up and could not make traction in the snow. Otherwise, I use it to give me an edge when climbing up mountains with slick rocks and to keep up with my buddies that have ATRAC on their 2000+ models.

Cost savings, I have been told by reputable dealers that the Australian Harrops are made by Eaton. Eaton sells a purportedly identical eLocker in the US for less. Naturally, it avoids shipment charges from Australia to the US. Usually, the Eaton/Harrop dealers in the US offer diff conversion services. You pack up your old diff, send it to them, and they return a converted diff that is ready for installation. For me, it was some work to drop and remove the front diff and ship the diff to the installer. But I wouldn't call it hard. Also, this gave me the opportunity to replace some well-worn diff bushings that become problematic after decades of use. Because I did the work myself, I saved a lot of money and could afford to replace bushings and make it all like new.

I had a guy in Arizona that I know from my Tacoma experiences do the diff conversion. He publishes a pictorial story about every diff conversion that he does so the customer can see the new diff being built.

His name is Zuk at www.gearinstalls.com

Here's my diff upgrade story. It's good that I have the story saved on my computer as well as being published on his website. I can't imagine ever selling my LX, but if I should, the documentation about the build published by the builder would be priceless.

Other members have had great luck with vendors who specialize in Eaton / Harrop conversions. He is not the only place in the US that can make the conversion. Pricing and comfort level comes into play. Only you know what you can afford and your comfort level.

Here's a link to my story.


After I received the upgraded diff, then I installed it with all new bushings.

Once I received the diff, then prepared it for installation. I take some extra pains to make sure aluminum is polished and coated with acrylic. I get the diff covered in mud often and I think this makes it easy to clean.

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About Torsion Bars.

Dobinsons sells torsion bars for lifting that are currently outselling supply. I understand the ease of installation is the reason for the high demand.

Read the details about their bars at the following link.


I can only share my personal experience. I have no skin in the game with anybody's product.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 
IMO for the price Zuk charges, it's not worth trying to DIY the locker. Just drop it, put it in a box, and ship it to the pro.

Absolutely, his prices were more than fair when I did business with him. Also, I loved the detailed progress reports with pictures.

It's like getting Rolls Royce service at a Chevrolet price.
 
Thank you everyone for the detailed responses and wealth of info, I really appreciate it!!!
 
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