help engaging long birfield (driver's side) into differential-SOLVED-it was me. (1 Viewer)

[GJCruiser]

I've searched alot and the answers appear to be "keep trying", "all of a sudden, it went in" . That's not working after two hours. In my 1972 FJ55, PO had changed front axle to one from an early disk brake FJ40. During axle repack, I changed differential to 3.73 from 1987 FJ60. Passenger side reassembled normally. I cannot get the long driver's side to accept the axle spline. This is the first of two diff. changes so I have the other to-be-changed one for the rear stll on the floor. I can repeat the problem on the floor in that the axle shaft appears to be short going all the way in the same amount of the depth of the spline in the diff.

On the floor, its easy to rotate the axle and everything slides together. If the teeth are really not meshing at the point of engagement, how do I rotate the the front diff to assist engagement? Rotating the pinion flange has no effect.

Thank you,

Gerry

 

[GJCruiser]

Apparently, I'm further away than originally thought. I'm probably two inches aways. The depth of the splines in the diff are about 1/18 inches deep. Something else is keeping me out. I dreading the idea of pulling the pass. side back out, thenremoving the diff. I'm not going there Yet. Maybe tomorrow I can pull knuckle off driver's side, clean that out and inspect with light.

I can "feel" a first interference or block and while pushing down and in I can proceed past that but only about one more inch in leaving the rest to go. Rotating pinion while applying inward pressure to axle has no effect.

Thanks

 

[3_puppies]

when rotating pinion, is the locking hub locked on the other side?

 

[GJCruiser]

Thanks for the help. I was worried the Warn hub on the other side was preventing rotation so I removed it. I'm really don't want to tear this apart again! I'm thinking I'll remove and clean the left side and try to view inside?

 

[billmc]

Perhaps you tried this but mine gave me a hell of a time last year, rotated the axle 180* and it went right in

 

[GJCruiser]

I did try that, thanks. I'm wondering now about my problem's relationship with setting new trunnion bearing shims. Upon disassembly, I discovered one thick and one thin shim on top with one thin on the bottom. The upper bearing race was eaten into by the bearing. I wound up using the fish scale method with one thick and thin on each top and bottom. I wonder now about that change causing my problem. I noted where someones' recommendation was to loosen top and bottom trunion bearings. I worry why I should have to do that?

 

[GJCruiser]

I wanted to complete this documentation so that it may help someone in the future. This morning I cleaned out the grease and inspected with a light. I was easy to get a view that clearly indicated nothing was wrong inside (I always assume the worse). However, cleaning the knuckle well revealed a shiny spot on the bottom of the knuckle housing. I realized I was bumping the birfield up against this spot and was further out than originally thought.

I regreased then slid the axle in until it bumped the same way. Gave it a small lift and push and achieved a pretty healthy slide in. Gave the diff a small rotation and everything fell into place. If you are facing this problem, the search advise is mostly correct. It's technique so just keep trying.

Thanks to all. This forum continues to be the greatest.

 

[3_puppies]

good to hear you got it.