Help diagnosing grinding sound (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 17, 2023
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Location
Chula Vista, CA
I bought a 1998 LC100 last month w/ 234k miles. The truck came with a 3” OME lift, freedom off road UCAs, aftermarket CV axles (I know, I plan on replacing with OEM), and Dobinsons diff drop kit, all installed in 2021. It’s on 285/65 r18s (lexus wheels) and the steering rack, lower ball joints, and front wheel bearings were also replaced in 2021.

On Sunday I threw 1.5”wheel spacers on. Afterwards, the truck started making this grinding noise (see video), but only when I reverse out of my driveway turning right. It doesn’t make the noise turning into my driveway or turning out to the left. It also doesn’t make the noise when I reverse right on a flat street, only when I reverse right out of my driveway. Also, it doesn’t make the noise when I repeat immediately afterwards, it only grinds like that after the trucks been sitting for a bit.

I’m pretty sure I caused this sound when I installed the spacers because, well, I’m an idiot. Before I installed the spacers there was a small front end vibration at 65-70mph on some freeways (sometimes there was no vibration at all). My outer tie rod ends looked pretty worn (photos below) so I ordered the 555 replacements from cruiser outfitters. I figured since a lot of other suspension/steering components have been recently redone, maybe I get lucky and this eliminates the vibration.

When the front spacers came in, I didn’t even think about the vibration. I don’t know if the grinding noise is related to the vibration, but in hindsight it was stupid to add the spacers knowing I have a worn suspension or steering component somewhere. To add to my idiocy, the front spacers were a snug fit because of rust on the hub assembly, so I tapped them in with a rubber mallet (possibly causing or worsening existing damage).

The sound is definitely coming from the front passenger side. I’m not opposed to taking the truck in to a pro, but if it’s something I can do myself, I want to try.

You guys have any idea what that sound is? Doesn’t sound like tire rub to me (and if it was wouldn’t it be more consistent and on both sides?)

Also, the spacers:



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Sounds like tire rub, on fender well. Since just added spacers, look for rub marks near outside of fender well.

Consideration that may aggravating tire rub:
Tire size.
Stance: Cross level vehicle. Also "Rake" (stink bug), frt minimum 3/4" lower than rear is good, but if to much say 3" rake could add to rub.
Alignment, also consider the aftermarket UCA.
Ball joints.

Few more thoughts:
Could also be a bad CV of front drive shaft. But sound was not really like one.
Front Wheel bearing loose. As you turn the brake rotor disk may rub on caliper.

Your TRE boots, are likely damaged from a BFH blows. Guy's use BFH to pop ball joints/TRE off. A very bad practice. I can see arm where TRE attaches to, beat badly to point metal is deformed. I'd replace TRE (Toyota OEM are the best choice). But if the surface boot seat/seals to, not restored to flat. Very likely boot will not seal well and TRE will fail again from containment entering.

Likely your upper & lower points of knuckle where ball joints boots seat, will also need restoring to flat.

Here's a check of wheel bearings to see if loose. Any play they need servicing, ANY! These in video were so loose, brake disk contacted caliper.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like tire rub, on fender well. Since just added spacers, look for rub marks near outside of fender well.

Consideration that may aggravating tire rub:
Tire size.
Stance: Cross level vehicle. Also "Rake" (stink bug), frt minimum 3/4" lower than rear is good, but if to much say 3" rake could add to rub.
Alignment, also consider the aftermarket UCA.
Ball joints.

Few more thoughts:
Could also be a bad CV of front drive shaft. But sound was not really like one.
Front Wheel bearing loose. As you turn the brake rotor disk may rub on caliper.

Your TRE boots, are likely damaged from a BFH blows. Guy's use BFH to pop ball joints/TRE off. A very bad practice. I can see arm where TRE attaches to, beat badly to point metal is deformed. I'd replace TRE (Toyota OEM are the best choice). But if the surface boot seat/seals to, not restored to flat. Very likely boot will not seal well and TRE will fail again from containment entering.

Likely your upper & lower points of knuckle where ball joints boots seat, will also need restoring to flat.

Here's a check of wheel bearings to see if loose. Any play they need servicing, ANY! These in video were so loose, brake disk contacted caliper.

Thank you for this. It’s very thorough and helpful.

I will check for fender rub and for any play in the wheel bearings first, and then I’ll see if I can assess how much BFH damage I’m dealing with. Thanks again, good sir. I’ll post an update after I get in there this weekend.
 
Good luck.
BTW: Look in my signature line. First link is to my "Master thread" page. You may find it useful.
 

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