Help! Cut through water line (1 Viewer)

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FWIW, I tried to replace my lower tubes and couldn't remove the heat shields to get at them. And my truck has been in Charlotte since it was new.

I'd highly recommend bypassing the rear heater at the firewall under the heater valve, before you start this job. That way, if you can't get at the tubing, you can still drive the truck.
Charlotte is close to me! I think I am going to patch it for now. I cut out the bad section to put some rubber between it. Honestly though I do plan on bypassing it. I don't want any issues in the future . The rubber tubes connected on the bottom of the lower metal piping were so brittle they were already leaking.
 
Here is where the lowers begin and end
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Ended up bypassing the rear heater and pulling it out of the cabin. I don’t think I’ll need it and I have a hard time trusting those old pipes. I Left the old metal pipes where they are. Used 5/8 heater hose and two 90 degree 5/8 hoses with some new clamps. The oem ones were a PITA to get off especially tucked up against the firewall. No leaks! So far so good.
She’s back in action.
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IMO these rust prematurely from the outside in due to heat from the cats along with an inadequate paint job from the factory. IMHO if anyone goes to the trouble to install new rear heater pipes consider having them properly re-painted with a heat resistant primer and color top coat, then install heat reflective insulation sleeves over the pipes. FWIW
 
Ended up bypassing the rear heater and pulling it out of the cabin. I don’t think I’ll need it and I have a hard time trusting those old pipes. I Left the old metal pipes where they are. Used 5/8 heater hose and two 90 degree 5/8 hoses with some new clamps. The oem ones were a PITA to get off especially tucked up against the firewall. No leaks! So far so good.
She’s back in action.
View attachment 3285813
Gorgeous!
 

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