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- #21
I got two of the connections backward. Fixing it now.
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Did you happen to add a relay? The switch is rated at 3A and I think the fan is rated at 5A.
I did not. Phil's kit runs the fan through an add-a-fuse (10A) in the DS kick panel. Not sure if that handles what you're referring to or not- still an idiot with electrical. Is there an issue present as it's set up?
No @hoser is referring to is the current drawn by fan of 5 amps. The switch being rated at 3 amps means that it is switching more power than it can handle and will wear out faster. Using a relay the switch only supplies a small amount of power to the relay which has contacts which handle the fan power.
By the way does the switch light dim with the dash lights?
Yes, the Dorman rocker switch that came with LCP's kit was rated at 25A... so no relay was needed for it.
leave the green wire as is
leave the red1 wire as is
you would snip the red2 wire in half and use another t-tap that would connect red1 and red2
leave the black as is
this would make whatever lights up with the headlights (fan or lettering, still unclear to me) to only turn on with the switch in the ON position. if the lettering or fan image is always on with accessory power, then that wont change unless you get a new switch as the bulb is being powered from the red1 wire and the black wire internally.
Wouldn’t joining red 1 and red 2 result in sending 12v through the entire dash light circuit every time the switch is on? Unless of course the dash-light/red 2 junction is disconnected ....
never mind—despite having refreshed the page before replying, I still somehow didn’t see the last four or so posts....glad it’s working, but, yes, use a relay! I kind of thought the kit came with one built in, no?
The factory and the aftermarket fans only pull 5amps. At 5amp no relay is needed unless you use AC to turn on the aux fan. For me I only see it as a needed basis because 90% of the time the aux fan is not needed even here in AZ. Im using a button switch rated at 25amps from Dorman and installing in the removable blank plate for the magic dial thus leaving no scares to my LX dash. Be careful buying Chinese illuminated button switches, many claim LED lights and are not creating too much heat leading to switch failure.
View attachment 1121776
I thought there was a relay included as well, but checked the kit wiring and saw none. This is what Phil says, which is in line with what @hoser said.
Makes perfect sense, but i think my mind has been shaped by narrow minded types who use relays for everything, so I use relays for everything.....probably unnecessary when there are switches with that kind of rating out there, though....
The old switch handles the power fine without a relay. Your new switch will wear out quickly, without a relay.
Okay folks hang on to your hats. Here is a relay on Amazon, but auto parts stores should have ones like it.
Amazon product ASIN B01J53IH5M
View attachment 2434633
Note: Device in diagram above is the fan.
The red wire from the fuse (one dot) would now go to both the switch and terminal 30 on the relay.
Disconnect the other red wire from the switch (one with a line) and hook to terminal 87 of relay.
From where that other red wire was hooked to the switch now need a wire from that terminal on the switch to terminal 86 on relay.
Hook relay terminal 85 to ground.
Dimmable lights. This is where it gets tricky, the dimming control varies the ground side of the lights. So you have 12V on one terminal of the light and variable connection to ground on the other terminal of the light. It is more tricky if the switch has LED bulbs. Let me look around for my notes and I will come back and edit this post to fill in the details.
Yes that is pretty much it. You want those original thicker red wires going to relay terminals 30 and 87, and nothing from terminal 87 going to the switch.Awesome! Thanks for this.
Is it just as simple as Teeing a wire into what's already there and connecting with a spade connector on the points of the relay in the order you've described?
Is the fan for cooling the motor?
Or for circulating air in the cabin?
The fan install is very simple and straightforward. Phil gives you everything needed, including the coat hanger to fish the wiring through the firewall.
Does he still sell the kit?
His site is down right now, not sure what's up.