Help a newbie troubleshoot something easy... (2 Viewers)

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I'm assuming this is an "easy" fix, but I can't find the answer.

The belt system on the crank/waterpump/air pump is not turning. All other belts and pulleys are going good and the belt seems fine. So as a result I obviously overheat in a matter of minutes. I'm in the Army and want to get this fixed over the 3 day before I head out in May.

Where do I start?

Thanks for the help.

In the pic, the engine is running fwiw.
House 001c.JPG
 
Maybe your air pump seized up? Try removing the belt and turning the various pulleys by hand, if you haven't yet.

Good luck!
 
Step one, will do. Thanks. I might as well ask now, what are the next steps if seized up? New air pump? Can I buy a different belt and "skip" it?

Disregard. I'm assuming I have a seized smog pump and that my options are to replace it or 'desmog' the cruiser. If I'm new and have adequate tools and experience, and I am pressed for time, should I just have a shop do it? My "trusted" shop is going to call me back with a quote today.
 
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quickest way out of it is to just swap out the pump. should be do-able in 3 days.. de-smogging is a pita and takes a long time to get it right imho.
 
What about gutting it? Temporary fix? I've noticed a lot of people do that and leave it. However, I can't find a how to on gutting it.
 
pull the air pump and take off the back cover - if you have ANY spatial skills whatsoever you'll be able to figure it out no problem. It's not complex inside, just get rid of the vane blades and put it back together.
 
What about gutting it? Temporary fix? I've noticed a lot of people do that and leave it. However, I can't find a how to on gutting it.

gutting it is easy just remove the retaining bolts in the back, pull off the back plate, keep the rear bearing, remove the internal baffles planes and checks, check to see which bearing if any seized. regrease rear bearing and put back together. *** make sure you reinstall the rear bearing to support the drum or your front bearing will fail.

your front bearing prob went out if any.

you can do that in a day. make sure when you remove the pump ensure bottom pivot bolt sleeve on the firwall side does not fall out. it reduces the case diameter to the bolts diameter and ensures alignment.
 
pull the air pump and take off the back cover - if you have ANY spatial skills whatsoever you'll be able to figure it out no problem. It's not complex inside, just get rid of the vane blades and put it back together.

So I do that, do I have to do any of the crazy hose re-routing I keep reading about? Is that reserved for actual smog pump eliminator pulleys? I assume so.

If that is the case, I will gut it this weekend and call it good.
 
I've replaced the smog pump on my Fj60 more than once. I've used CarQuest aftermarket pumps, about 89.00 with core, and blamed the pumps' failures on the remanufacturer. Since hanging around MUD, I've come to the conclusion that the slowly, but gradually leaking power steering pump right above the smog pump was the cause of my problems. It might be useful to check whether or not you have the same scenario. Best. N.M.
 
I'm fully desmogged so I don't have the air rail but... There is a anti backfire valve that should keep gases from coming back to the air pump. I'd just reconnect the hoses to the smog pump or pull the air rail and put NPT plugs in the ports and be done with that part.

So I do that, do I have to do any of the crazy hose re-routing I keep reading about? Is that reserved for actual smog pump eliminator pulleys? I assume so.

If that is the case, I will gut it this weekend and call it good.

edit: I'm not an emissions guru so take it for what it is worth - Do you have emissions testing?
 
There is a NAPA belt that will let you bypass your pump completely. A search will turn it up, but you'll probably end up reading a thousand posts on smog pumps before you find it.

But I've seen it before. It's in here somewhere.

You can also use the AC belt over the crank, alt, and water pump. You lose power steering that way, but you also bypass the smog pump.
 
I too did the "gutting" route since you need to keep the pulley. It's easy. I pinched shut the two hose fitting on the back so goo wouldn't find its way in there. Ran it that way for years without issue. And by the way, thanks for your military service, I appreciate that.
 
I'm fully desmogged so I don't have the air rail but... There is a anti backfire valve that should keep gases from coming back to the air pump. I'd just reconnect the hoses to the smog pump or pull the air rail and put NPT plugs in the ports and be done with that part.



edit: I'm not an emissions guru so take it for what it is worth - Do you have emissions testing?

No emissions, vehicle is licensed for Idaho so being in NC, no one checks up on it. Pretty sure Idaho is still in the stone ages in regards to "pollution" and emissions control.

Let me get this straight: In summary, pull it out, gut it, check front and back bearings, re-install it, re-attach hoses and everything just like it was, attach belts and that's that...?
 
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that's exactly what i did. been running it that way for probably 8 mos. it's probably not ideal but i haven't had any problems and i don't have time to do a full desmog since it's my dd. anyway i'm hoping to get it to it to aintscared in the next 18 mos for a v8 swap. gutting the pump is the easiest part of the job. getting the pump out and back in is a pia.
 
i didn't have that problem. what i found was the vanes were broken into pieces and lodged keeping the bearings from turning.
 
i didn't have that problem. what i found was the vanes were broken into pieces and lodged keeping the bearings from turning.

Ditto - your bearings will be fine, it's the vanes that cause the problem. Mine's been gutted for 4 years with no ill effects. When I pulled the air rail I went to the autoparts store with the backplate and found a couple of freeze plugs that fit the holes that those elbows come out of.
 
Allright, glorified belt tensioner it is.

I couldn't find a straight answer...
Why, with it gutted and hooked back up exactly the way it was (hoses, etc...), does it run fine and have (hopefully) no ill effects? I assume it is at the sake of emissions, but is there anything else I am missing? Just curious.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
 
The quick answer is - with it gutted, The air pump won't be pushing any air through your smog system.
 

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