HELP! 2f upper rebuild all new runs like SH*T (1 Viewer)

[motoloco]

spent the last week working on a 78 fj40 i bought with a bad head gasket,no radiator or water pump greasy nasty mess!! although it would start and run ok. so i just did new batt. hoses radiator thermostat rebuilt and resurfaced head, head gasket intake gasket cap rotor plugs wires etc etc.... it runs terrible, like it is running on 3 cylinders! if i can get it to start it ran better before! ive gone over all vacume areas, checked firing order (put the wires on the plugs according to the numbers emossed on the new cap in order from the front of the motor to the back 1-2-3-4-5-6) three plugs seem the be burning well while 3 are kinda getting carboned/oil slightly. put HEAT in the fuel and 7 gallons of freash gas, carb seems ok. I DID REMOVE the stock heat flapper thing that pushes heat up to the bottom of the intake in the stock exhaust manifold because it looked restrictive to me, could this be the issue, it will barley start/run like it is missing on 2-3 cylinders and kinda poofing out of the carb, wont even come close to idleing. any ideas???? help please! thx

 

[pickle]

Kinda of sounds like it's out of time???? Did you get the dist. back in time?

 

[motoloco]

i never had to mess with the dist. during the head job and it started and ran ok before all the work. the vacume advance is turned pretty close to the oil filter which i think is pretty common on most 2f's right? where do you check for the timming mark on a 2f? thx

 

[pickle]

Have you checked the dist. position in regards to #1 being on TDC and timing mark on crank?? Firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4

 

[motoloco]

yes that is the firing order that is stamped on my cap, but i dont know where the timing mark is on a 2f or how the check TDC. can you tell me how? thx

 

[pickle]

Could be points, condensor or coil......but I don't think that any of these would make it POOF out the carb. ! ? Has it been converted to electronic ignition?

 

[motoloco]

no, i believe the ignition is all stock, and i did spend an hour under the hood with a 2600psi pressure washer before the work, but started it right after, drove it in my shop and tore it apart that day.

 

[pickle]

Did you have the head gone threw.......valve job? Are they adjusted correctly? Next time to the parts store pick-up a Haynes repair manual # 92055 (313) It will be your new bst friend.

 

[jwest]

Check your valve clearances. They're probably tight after the head resurfacing.
TDC is #1 piston at compression with the indicator at the bellhousing lined up with the hash mark on the flywheel. This should point the rotor just forward of #4 spark plug. It should be in the ball park since you didn't mess with it.

But you're going to have a problem with removing the heat diverter. You're better off repairing it, shutting it closed, shielding it or adding a fluid heat riser.

 

[motoloco]

there was nothing wrong with the heat riser, they told me i could remove it at classic cruisers for better air flow. you have to check TDC at the flywheel? where pass. or drivers side? should i go electronic ign. or just replace the points? thx

 

[jwest]

...head gasket intake gasket cap rotor plugs wires etc etc....

should i go electronic ign. or just replace the points?

If you have a rotor you have electronic ignition. This isn't adding up.

You'll find the timing marks on the passenger side. Use the search function for the details on adjusting your valves.

 

[John McVicker]

You have a rotor on BOTH type of ignitions, points and electronic. But that is a good question. Electronic ignition or points? And can you give us compression #'s

 

[jwest]

Of course they do, as did the F motors...

Focusing on the 60 series section gave me temporary tunnel vision.
Thanks for the reminder.

 

[cruiser88]

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/valves.html thats the way to do the valves.now when you pressure washed.was the head off,was all holes into block cover plugged whatever.im worried you may have got some water in your motor.check that next

 

[John McVicker]

I knew you knew that. But now what I don't know is if he has an condenser on a 78 2f. My stock 75 2f came w/condenser & could give similar symptoms with a failing condenser. I think compression #'s could help w/diagnosis. Right now it could be a number of things. We need more info.

 

[Coolerman]

Order the FSM for your truck. FSM = Factory Service Manual. Do a search on this board for the web site to get it from or order it from your dealer or maybe Classic Cruisers can get you one. You can also download the FSM in pdf or .jpg format from a couple of sites. www.birfield.com is one.

 

[motoloco]

sorry i do have electronic ing. i feel like a tool! anyway the motor was assembled during the pressure wash, no water in the motor, or atleast not in the oil. to get it to start you have to hold it to the floor and turn it over and over, then when it does fire it barely wants to run, you have to keep it high in the r's to keep her running. i thought when they did the head the valves should be adj. correctly? i will call them tommarow and see. i torqed the head bolts to 98lbs. and the valve towers to approx 16lbs. is that correct? its got me worried cause in the last week ive put $500+ in the motor and probably13hrs of work by the time i got done with all the wrenching and detailing the engine bay

 

[motoloco]

will a comp. check tell me if my valves are wy off? i do have a comp tester

 

[Pin_Head]

will a comp. check tell me if my valves are wy off? i do have a comp tester

Yes, but in practice it is just easier to adjust them.

You need to adjust them after a valve job and the clearances will change. if you haven't adjusted them yet, this may explain your problems.

 

[pickle]

My money is on the valves.................not that big of a deal to adjust.