HELP.... 1970 header in way of column shifter

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Aug 28, 2006
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Virginia
HELP!!.....How do I redo the linkage of my 1970 3 speed on the column shifter so the linkage doesn't hit the new header???

It seems that it won't shift into 1st gear... As if the linkage is now too long.

Anyone dealt with this before??
 
Switch it over to floor shift.

:meh:
 
Any other ideas?
 
HELP!!.....How do I redo the linkage of my 1970 3 speed on the column shifter so the linkage doesn't hit the new header???

It seems that it won't shift into 1st gear... As if the linkage is now too long.

Anyone dealt with this before??

"As if the linkage is now too long"

I find that comment interesting. The column shifter has always been there but now it's to long. You install a new aftermarket item and it doesn't fit so it's the OEM shifters fault.:hmm:

As for you problem the only thing I can thing of that wouldn't be a whole new redesign is loosen the clamp at the base of the steering column and see if you can rotate the shifter enough to still work but clear the header.:meh:
 
Can you post some pictures, did you move the linkage or remove and when reinstall the linkage differently in order to put in the exhaust. Does it hit the exhaust while shifting? If it does not hit the exhaust then you have moved it or not re installed it properly. So we need more details of what you changed or moved as well as some pics.
 
So the linkage has not been changed. It works well and shifts correctly. I was driving the 40 until last week when i took the warped exhaust manifold off.

The issue, is that now that I have the new header in place, the shifter linkage now hits the header as I shift into first gear.

I spoke with mark at marksoffroad and he said he modified the linkage on one of his personal cruisers I about an hour so that it didn't interfere with the newly installed header.

I need to know how. As in, which part of the linkage needs to be cut/added to/bent etc??
 
That's a good idea... I just need to get this on the road sooner than later. I'm on the east coast and marks on the west.

I'm going to look at it more this weekend.

Thanks for the suggestions/ photos and help.
 
I was just working on my column shifter linkage. Having trouble shifting into reverse and first. I had to shorten the upper, longest linkage rod. Ends tend to be reverse threaded. I will drive it for a few days with tranny hump cover off, so I can watch it and see if it still hangs up or needs further tweaking. I think you should be able to make some twisting/ rotating and shortening to clear new exhaust.
 
what is the quick and easy solution for this mentioned above? I tried lengthening the rod, flipping the ends and no matter how I orient the end will either hit the header or the steering box when trying to pull back to me.

If there really is an easy fix I would love to know it! I know that a stock exhaust manifold is the only definite answer.

This is what I am dealing with (i've tried bending this lever too... the steering box is in the way if you bend it away from the headers).

20150105_185220 - Copy.jpg
 
I think your path of least resistance is to install a tranny floor shifter:
(1) it clears the Headers.
(2) tranny shifts easier/more direct.
(3) Header worth the highway gas milage gain.
 
My 72 has a 3speed on the floor but from what I've read here on MUD it is my understanding that when you install headers if you have a column shifter you will have to move it to the floor. I just order headers from Mark and I can tell you he's a standup guy that really knows his stuff, just give him a call he will tell you if he can modified them without moving the shifter.
Josh
 
unable to move to floor shifter - this is a stock(ish) restoration and I want to keep the column shifter - great ideas though! I may call mark for details if he doesn't post up. There is mention earlier in this thread of a modification that he made to make it work.
 
what is the quick and easy solution for this mentioned above? I tried lengthening the rod, flipping the ends and no matter how I orient the end will either hit the header or the steering box when trying to pull back to me.

If there really is an easy fix I would love to know it! I know that a stock exhaust manifold is the only definite answer.

This is what I am dealing with (i've tried bending this lever too... the steering box is in the way if you bend it away from the headers).

View attachment 1014630

Is this pic taken from underneath?
 
The only thing I can think of is to remove the headers and cut and weld a new piece of pipe with a bigger bend in it. Why they don't build this sh1t suitable for every model is beyond me..
 
I have header (6 into 1) and 3 speed on tree. Clears. Although it is with a 2F, and the 1F intake.
 
Well if all else fails and you want to keep this cruiser as original as possible, I have some used 1970 exhaust manifolds available, you might have to fix a heat riser flap and resurface, but not cracked or warped. John
 
I have header (6 into 1) and 3 speed on tree. Clears. Although it is with a 2F, and the 1F intake.

Mmm mine are the tuned tri y headers so that may be an issue. I think these headers must have been for a fj60 or some other truck because that port on the side isnt for an egr - it is the size of an O2 sensor.
Thanks for the replies everyone... looks like I will be fixing up a stock manifold. John ill give you a PM if I need to use one of yours.
 
antfj, you wrote you are trying to stay stockfish, yet installing a Header?? I still think you'd be happier with the Header (for the reasons in my previous post). I'm confused on the Header shown in your photo, looks like the extra fitting was installed before plating because even the welds are plated, but I've never seen a fitting like that, don't know what it's for, the Downey smog legal Header fitting did not look like that??
 

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