Hello, new here and have a new LC (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 13, 2009
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Howdy from SE Missouri.

I've owned several Toyotas over the years but this is my first LC. My wife is currently driving a 99 4Runner with 190K on it, no probs.

I was in need of a vehicle and came acrosss a 96 Land Cruiser with 187K miles on it. Took it for a test drive and brought it home.

Pretty much everything works on it, just needs some minor fixing. This truck came from Nevada, so no rust.

The person I bought it from says that it has some sort of internal seal leaking and lets oil seap into the cylinders. Is this something that I should be worried about?

What should I have paid for this?

Here goes the pics:

LC1.jpg


LC2.jpg


LC3.jpg
 
Welcome.:flipoff2:

Did the PO say what the leak may be? Valve guides, piston rings???
 
Welcome aboard :flipoff2: Love the white 80's. You found the right place as there is a wealth of info on this board about your new vehicle, maintenance and modifications. poke through the FAQ if you havent. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/84888-faq-80-lx450-july-24-2008-added-lspv-modification.html

Looks good. The leaking seal comment might have worried me a bit and i'd be on my way to finding out just what seal it is and the labor involved in changing it. What kind of condition is it in? interior/exterior/mechanical. I would think if all was in good order and it drove well the truck is in the 4500-6500 range, perhaps up to 7500 if locked and loaded w/ a stack of service history.
 
Welcome aboard :flipoff2: Love the white 80's. You found the right place as there is a wealth of info on this board about your new vehicle, maintenance and modifications. poke through the FAQ if you havent. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/84888-faq-80-lx450-july-24-2008-added-lspv-modification.html

Looks good. The leaking seal comment might have worried me a bit and i'd be on my way to finding out just what seal it is and the labor involved in changing it. What kind of condition is it in? interior/exterior/mechanical. I would think if all was in good order and it drove well the truck is in the 4500-6500 range, perhaps up to 7500 if locked and loaded w/ a stack of service history.

The seals were/are a valve body seal or something like that. I asked a Toyota mech and he said that he wouldn't worry about it.

It is in very good condition for its age and mile. Little bumps and scrapes here and there. Interior in good condition, just normal wear and tear. Mechanically, it appears to be very good as well. But it doesn't have the CDL switch. However, I did a Carfax on it and it appears to have been maintained very well.
 
But it doesn't have the CDL switch.

The CDL switch was standard only on 91-92 US Spec vehicles. However, all US 80-Series are equipped with a locking center differential and can be retrofitted with the switch which enables manual control of the CDL. The standard behaviour of 93-97 models is to lock the center diff when the transfer case is shifted to low range.

-B-
 
The CDL switch was standard only on 91-92 US Spec vehicles. However, all US 80-Series are equipped with a locking center differential and can be retrofitted with the switch which enables manual control of the CDL. The standard behaviour of 93-97 models is to lock the center diff when the transfer case is shifted to low range.

-B-

I guess I should have said that I haven't done the pin-7 conversion ( I read the FAQs)

B, what you are saying is that the center diff locks when it is shifted into LO?

Back to the switch and pin-7 conversion. I don't plan on doing any off roading in this, do I really need to do the conversion?
 
B, what you are saying is that the center diff locks when it is shifted into LO?
Yes, unless you install a CDL switch. The switch gives manual control.

I don't plan on doing any off roading in this, do I really need to do the conversion?

The CDL switch gives you manual control over the locking center diff. If you never put the vehicle in Low range (transfer case shift lever) then there probably isn't a reason for the switch or the pin-7 mod. However, sometimes it is nice to lock the center diff while in high range. An example would be high speed dirt roads where you still want the 50/50 front rear distribution but you don't want to be in low range.

Without rehashing the NUMEROUS posts on the topic of "why pin-7?", I will say that it is a nice feature for things like pulling a boat up a slippery boat ramp in LOW range and still having an open center diff. If you want more examples then please do some reading because we have covered this in depth many, many times. Use Keywords=boat ramp low, and you should get a lot of opinions from other 'Mudders.

-B-
 
I think I get it now. With the "lockers" you can lock the center diff without being in LO range. Is that correct? So basically, being in LO the center diff is locked which is better than most 4X4s, correct?
 
I think I get it now. With the "lockers" you can lock the center diff without being in LO range. Is that correct? So basically, being in LO the center diff is locked which is better than most 4X4s, correct?

No, you still don't get it.

"Lockers" refers to lockable front and rear differentials. Your truck has 3 differentials; front, center, and rear.

Your front and rear diffs are "open", meaning they cannot be locked. If you had the elocker option, then you would be able to lock the rear and front diffs.

Your center diff is lockable and locks when put into low range (standard 93-97 factory behaviour). A locked center diff is basically the way that all 4x4s work. Most are locked all the time; hence the warning to not put them in 4wd unless they are in a low-traction situation. Yours is different in that it operates as an open diff in high range, giving better driveability since it is full-time 4wd.

You should read "Diffs for Dummies." See the FAQ.

-B-
 
No, you still don't get it.

"Lockers" refers to lockable front and rear differentials. Your truck has 3 differentials; front, center, and rear.

Your front and rear diffs are "open", meaning they cannot be locked. If you had the elocker option, then you would be able to lock the rear and front diffs.

Your center diff is lockable and locks when put into low range (standard 93-97 factory behaviour). A locked center diff is basically the way that all 4x4s work. Most are locked all the time; hence the warning to not put them in 4wd unless they are in a low-traction situation. Yours is different in that it operates as an open diff in high range, giving better driveability since it is full-time 4wd.

You should read "Diffs for Dummies." See the FAQ.

-B-

OK, I THINK I understand
 

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