Hella 500 Wiring

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Sep 2, 2003
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I am in a process of installing Hella 500. I got all the wiring done except the diagram tells me to hook up to highbeam wiring. How are you suppose to wire to highbeam? Splice and connect?
Thanks for your help.
 
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yes a Scotch lock will work, all it needs is a triger. Also conect to the ground not the positive, Cruiser are switched by the ground not positive. Personly I would run the triger wire to the parking lights, that way you can controll the lights so you can run them low or high or parking lamps on, when parking lamps off.....the aux lights go off. Or if you want to be legal or have them come on when you hit the high beams wire to high beams

John H
 
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I have the hella's on my 60 and I just straight wired them to a switch. I considered wiring them into the high beams, but opted against it. The reason is, in my 40, I have lost my headlights a few times due to a wiring problem (since fixed). If your headlights are wired seperate from Aux lighting, if you experience electrical probs you can still have lights. Figured this way, I have back up lighting just in case. Plus, if I want to run them with my headlights on too, I just hit a toggle switch.
 
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fj40,
so how do you directly connect to just switch of the aux light?
 
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Can someone advise how I can wire aux fog light directly to switch instead of running it to the head light? The instruction does not say how to wire directly to the switch and I am as dumb as can be on wiring.
Thanks.
Adrian
 
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I have relay with four post to hook up. One for lead to positive, one (actually splits to two) going to light itself, one going to switch, one going to ground. Separate one wire from head light directly to the switch.
I already have one going to positive.
 
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[quote author=MNCruiser link=board=2;threadid=6761;start=msg55643#msg55643 date=1067265238]
I have relay with four post to hook up. One for lead to positive, one (actually splits to two) going to light itself, one going to switch, one going to ground. Separate one wire from head light directly to the switch.
I already have one going to positive.
[/quote]

take the wire that was suppose to go to the highbeam headlamp(the trigger wire) and run it to the battery(so yes you will have 2 wires going to batt, the main power wire and the trigger wire) this will let you turn on the lights when ever you want.

John H
 
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that wire thats suppose to go to high beams can go to anything that has power -- if you want them to come on with parking light splice it into somthin with power when those are on if you want them any time then run straight to battery like da pimp said

i ran mine to a wire with power when key is turned that way if i happen to leave them on when i turn off the rig they go off

does anybody know if you really need a relay if not conecting to high beam or parkin lights??
 
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Got it! Thanks guys. I will directly hook up to the battery positive terminal and run it direct. I always wanted to run the aux light separate.
Thanks. I really appreciate it.
Adrian
 
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[quote author=customcruiser link=board=2;threadid=6761;start=msg55660#msg55660 date=1067267336]


does anybody know if you really need a relay if not conecting to high beam or parkin lights??
[/quote]

yes and no. If you don't run a relay then all the power will go thru the dash switch, which if the switch is not rated high enough can be a problem. Also you will need to run a larger wire to the cab(switch) if not running a relay. Me......I think the relay is a good idea even if the switch can handle the power.


John H
 
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I will be running relay that was supplied with the Hella 500. I will be using the OEM switch I got from the cruiserparts.net. Will this be a problem running direct to the switch from battery positive?
 
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if you use the relay, then you will not be running full power to the dash switch, you will just be running enough juice to turn the relay on/off. The high power goes to the relay.
 
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In other terms, I will be okay with this set up without burning or melting anything, correct?
 
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As Pimp has mentioned, you are better off using the relays vs. running the full power to the dash switch.

Only using the dash switch (assuming it can handle the load) requires you to run heavier guage wire to the switch and will likely result in higher loss of power going to the lights = less output (this can be quite substantial - see earlier posts on this topic). Running stock lights without a relay can probably be handled by the switch, going to higher output lights may result in the switch overheating, etc. While it may seem like a mess, this is still the best route to go. Run some light wiring from the switch to the relay (think of it as an extended light switch) and heavier wiring from the relay to the lights.

Cheers, Hugh
 

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