is there a way to manually move the height control sensor to N. I got this 98 lx470 and the AHC was shot. I replaced it with an aftermarket traditional suspension but now the front still is very low, about 5 inches lower than the rear. I just noticed that height control sensor is in Low position and will not move when the button is pressed for N. Does that mean that both sensors are shot or is there a way to make it move to the N setting? Thank you in advance.
height control sensor is stuck on low and I've deleted the AHC (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mudslinger420
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jLB
Another one followed me home. Can we keep it?
I believe that you’re barking up the wrong tree...
If you’ve removed the AHC system, and replaced it with a conventional suspension, the little “uppy/downy” button is not going to do a damn thing.
Did you replace the AHC torsion bars (front springs) when you swapped to a conventional suspension, or did you use one of those goofy strutmasters kits?
If you’re still using the AHC torsion bars, the proper solution would be to replace them with OE non-AHC or “thinner” aftermarket (OME) torsion bars, as the AHC torsion bars are too thin to properly support the front end without the assistance of the AHC hydraulic system.
If you’ve already swapped out the AHC torsion bars, it sounds like you (or the shop that you had do the work) didn’t index the torsion bars properly.
You should probably unplug the AHC ECU to disable the AHC dash display too.
If you’ve removed the AHC system, and replaced it with a conventional suspension, the little “uppy/downy” button is not going to do a damn thing.
Did you replace the AHC torsion bars (front springs) when you swapped to a conventional suspension, or did you use one of those goofy strutmasters kits?
If you’re still using the AHC torsion bars, the proper solution would be to replace them with OE non-AHC or “thinner” aftermarket (OME) torsion bars, as the AHC torsion bars are too thin to properly support the front end without the assistance of the AHC hydraulic system.
If you’ve already swapped out the AHC torsion bars, it sounds like you (or the shop that you had do the work) didn’t index the torsion bars properly.
You should probably unplug the AHC ECU to disable the AHC dash display too.
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- Thread starter
- #3
i did use the goofy strut master kit, this is just a cheap get around take the kids and all the crap to the beach car. The car was stuck in Low before i swapped the suspension and I'm wondering if that's why the front sits so low now, pretty much same position it was before i swapped the suspension. Your saying getting the other torsion bars will bring the front up 5 inches to meet the rear? If so Ill order a set tonight. Thank you.
jLB
Another one followed me home. Can we keep it?
I can’t say that it will bring the front up 5” nor do I think that’s really what you want.
The last time that I measured AHC “low”, the center of the front hub, to the bottom of the fender, was ~17.5”. If you lifted that ~5” that would put you at ~22.5”, and leave ~0.25” of down travel with factory length shocks. Ideally you’re going to want something more along the lines of 2-3” of down travel.
Assuming that my 17.5” measurement is about where you’re currently sitting, you should be able to get to +3” (~20.5), which would be ~1” over stock AHC “N”, which should still leave 2.25” of down travel, keep some of the factory rake that many around here feel is important, and not have issues dialing in proper caster in the alignment.
- Thread starter
- #5
i see what your saying. Ill go measure when i get home and see where its sitting and order some torsion bars. I appreciate the help.
Sorry, Almost spilled beer all over myself and my front seat!. Btw just parked, not driving.- Thread starter
- #7
also is there any torsion bars you recommend? this won't be seeing an off-road use just trips to the beach and maybe camping.
jLB
Another one followed me home. Can we keep it?
Based on your description, my first choice would be some used OE take-offs (new OE are rather expensive) from a non-AHC Land Cruiser, my second choice would be some aftermarket OME (one of the thinnest of the aftermarket options).
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
The factory AHC system relies on both the AHC hydraulic rams (shocks) and the torsion bars to support the weight. The shocks have hydraulic pressure to support part of the truck's weight. Similarly in the rear, the factory LX springs are super thin and soft and the shocks provide support.
When you remove the AHC hydraulic rams (shocks), you are essentially removing 50% of the weight bearing system. The factory Land Cruiser torsion bars and rear springs are beefier and designed to carry the entire vehicle weight while the shocks only provide dampening.
You will need Land cruiser torsion bars or similar to carry the entire front weight of the truck.
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- Thread starter
- #12
The link would probably be helpful
jLB
Another one followed me home. Can we keep it?
The SAW torsion bars are one of the cheapest aftermarket options, but if I remember correctly they’re thicker than the OME.
From your description, it sounds like you’re not carrying lots of additional extra weight (Bull bar, 2nd battery, winch, skid plates, etc) over the front axle. Stock non-AHC torsion are probably the “correct” weight springs. OME are probably one “notch” too heavy, but cheaper than new OE. SAW are probably two “notches” too heavy, but cheaper than OME (and OE).
I’ve run some of the “thicker” aftermarket torsion bars, on a relative lightweight 100 series, and they were rather unpleasant to me. They were what I had sitting on a shelf, and I eventually replaced them with OME. You’re going to be a better judge of whether you’d rather feel a quick/short pain in your wallet, or a long/dull pain every time you drive the vehicle. If you’re really trying to save money, you might check with Slee or Cruiser Outfitters for some used take-off OE non-AHC torsion bars.
If I remember correctly, this thread covers torsion bar diameters:
forum.ih8mud.com
From your description, it sounds like you’re not carrying lots of additional extra weight (Bull bar, 2nd battery, winch, skid plates, etc) over the front axle. Stock non-AHC torsion are probably the “correct” weight springs. OME are probably one “notch” too heavy, but cheaper than new OE. SAW are probably two “notches” too heavy, but cheaper than OME (and OE).
I’ve run some of the “thicker” aftermarket torsion bars, on a relative lightweight 100 series, and they were rather unpleasant to me. They were what I had sitting on a shelf, and I eventually replaced them with OME. You’re going to be a better judge of whether you’d rather feel a quick/short pain in your wallet, or a long/dull pain every time you drive the vehicle. If you’re really trying to save money, you might check with Slee or Cruiser Outfitters for some used take-off OE non-AHC torsion bars.
If I remember correctly, this thread covers torsion bar diameters:
Any difference in ironman vs OME torsion bars?
With the metaltech sale, the iron man and OME torsion bars are about the same price. Any reason to go with one over the other? Do they have markedly different performance? Of course hight is adjustable, but how about stiffness?
forum.ih8mud.com
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ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Contact Slee. They most likely have some OEM LC torsion bars they can sell to you.
To get rid of the green dash light that shows L, N, or H, you can also remove the instrument cluster and unplug the mini-board that controls those lights.
Have you even tried adjusting the current torsion bars to see if you can raise the front of the rig as it sits for free? Get a 30mm socket and breaker bar and start there.
To get rid of the green dash light that shows L, N, or H, you can also remove the instrument cluster and unplug the mini-board that controls those lights.
Have you even tried adjusting the current torsion bars to see if you can raise the front of the rig as it sits for free? Get a 30mm socket and breaker bar and start there.
- Thread starter
- #16
really appreciate all the help and insight. Got a place Ill call tomorrow about some LC bars and if that's a bust Ill just pony up and order some ome bars. Thanks again.The SAW torsion bars are one of the cheapest aftermarket options, but if I remember correctly they’re thicker than the OME.
From your description, it sounds like you’re not carrying lots of additional extra weight (Bull bar, 2nd battery, winch, skid plates, etc) over the front axle. Stock non-AHC torsion are probably the “correct” weight springs. OME are probably one “notch” too heavy, but cheaper than new OE. SAW are probably two “notches” too heavy, but cheaper than OME (and OE).
I’ve run some of the “thicker” aftermarket torsion bars, on a relative lightweight 100 series, and they were rather unpleasant to me. They were what I had sitting on a shelf, and I eventually replaced them with OME. You’re going to be a better judge of whether you’d rather feel a quick/short pain in your wallet, or a long/dull pain every time you drive the vehicle. If you’re really trying to save money, you might check with Slee or Cruiser Outfitters for some used take-off OE non-AHC torsion bars.
If I remember correctly, this thread covers torsion bar diameters:
IronMan suspension VS. Old Man Emu?
I am looking to be lifting my 2000 uzj enough to fit 35" tires. I recently saw in the last issue of 4WD Toyota Owner they fit an IronMan suspension system on a 2001. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with IronMan and whether or not i can run 35" tires with the heavy setup? Secondly...
- Thread starter
- #17
Ill check em out thanks. I have tried adjusting the current bars and have them pretty maxed out and it still sits very low. I plan on getting rid of the dash lights after i get the front height were I need it.
You've got to follow the Strutmaster instructions, around 6:00 of the installation video.
