After looking into my heater valve situation, it appears at some point my '85 truck had a 4runner valve installed. It's cobbled together with some extra hoses and T's to bypass the would of been 4runner rear heat.
Anyways, the valve is so stiff to operate it causes binding in my hot-cold lever in the cab, so I've just left it on hot. I took it off to try and free it up and what not but I reckon the thing is just old and stiff. When I had it off, in the closed position it still let my lung air pressure through, although restricted. Is this restricted flow in closed position by design?
Given they're expensive to replace, I thought of maybe rigging up a simple in-line T-handle ball valve from the hardware store and operate it manually twice a year during the seasons I actually need heated air. The other option would be rigging up 2 valves...1 that closes the heater core and 1 that would open a bypass between the in/out of the heater core.
Aside from fear and common sense, is there anything stopping me from binning the valve and installing a standard ball valve? If flow is 100% restricted through the heater core, is that going to create an issue on the other end where it is supposed to go back into the intake?
Ultimately the hoses on the current set up are old and starting to crack. They're going to let go sooner than later so as preventative maintenance I want to clean up the T and any un necessary connections.
Option 1: Bin the valve all together and have the heater core free flow all day and just have the in cab lever control the flapper door to open/close heater core air flow passage.
Option 2: Replace the valve with a T-handle ball valve, restricting flow to the heater core by 100% and just have the in cab lever control the flapper door...
Option 3: Replace the valve with a T-handle ball valve that closes the heater core passage, and install 1 more valve and a T to allow the system to work as if the heater core was bypassed.
Anyways, the valve is so stiff to operate it causes binding in my hot-cold lever in the cab, so I've just left it on hot. I took it off to try and free it up and what not but I reckon the thing is just old and stiff. When I had it off, in the closed position it still let my lung air pressure through, although restricted. Is this restricted flow in closed position by design?
Given they're expensive to replace, I thought of maybe rigging up a simple in-line T-handle ball valve from the hardware store and operate it manually twice a year during the seasons I actually need heated air. The other option would be rigging up 2 valves...1 that closes the heater core and 1 that would open a bypass between the in/out of the heater core.
Aside from fear and common sense, is there anything stopping me from binning the valve and installing a standard ball valve? If flow is 100% restricted through the heater core, is that going to create an issue on the other end where it is supposed to go back into the intake?
Ultimately the hoses on the current set up are old and starting to crack. They're going to let go sooner than later so as preventative maintenance I want to clean up the T and any un necessary connections.
Option 1: Bin the valve all together and have the heater core free flow all day and just have the in cab lever control the flapper door to open/close heater core air flow passage.
Option 2: Replace the valve with a T-handle ball valve, restricting flow to the heater core by 100% and just have the in cab lever control the flapper door...
Option 3: Replace the valve with a T-handle ball valve that closes the heater core passage, and install 1 more valve and a T to allow the system to work as if the heater core was bypassed.
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