Heater valve question (1 Viewer)

[4mydogs]

I finally got my '69 FJ40 on the road last week. (Yaay) Within no time the heater was cranking and I was sweating. I found the valve with a little t-handle coming out of the cylinder head. It's pretty stiff -- I managed to turn it a quarter turn clockwise before I thought I'd better stop and ask: Do you turn it clockwise to turn off the flow, and how far does it have to be turned? Thanks.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I'm not sure. Can you post a picture? Always helps.

 

[DSRTRDR]

you can turn it all the way in or out - I can never remember which way, either, I usually do the feeler test on the heater hoses in the cab

it takes a whole lot more than a quarter turn either direction - more like 3-4 whole turns, at least on my truck

I'm not sure. Can you post a picture? Always helps.

he's talking about one of these

 

[4mydogs]

you can turn it all the way in or out - I can never remember which way, either, I usually do the feeler test on the heater hoses in the cab

it takes a whole lot more than a quarter turn either direction - more like 3-4 whole turns, at least on my truck




he's talking about one of these

Yeah, it looks like the 2nd or 3rd one. I've sprayed it with penatrating oil - hopefully it will loosen up.

Thanks!

 

[Cleg]

If it will turn, clockwise closes the valve.
Mine was so rotten that turning it made it start leaking.
The thread in the head of my 1F was 1/2" NPT, inexplicable on a Japanese motor where everything else is metric.
I replaced the valve on the head with a brass & stainless ball valve and added a 2nd valve in the return line. That way if my 40 year old heater core springs leak it can be cut out of the circuit without ruining my weekend.

 

[emtee]

I'd recommend Cleg's solution...

I used a stainless brush on the threads of mine to clean some of the corrosion off, used plenty of penetrating oil and s l o w l y worked the valve until it moved easily. It works fine now, but a cable-operated ball valve operated from the driver's seat is a little more handy...

 

[DSRTRDR]

I'd recommend Cleg's solution...

I used a stainless brush on the threads of mine to clean some of the corrosion off, used plenty of penetrating oil and s l o w l y worked the valve until it moved easily. It works fine now, but a cable-operated ball valve operated from the driver's seat is a little more handy...

geez, what a luxury not to have to get out of the vehicle to open it

fancy later model stuff

 

[Coolerman]

Pull the valve off the truck and take it apart. You may find that the valve doesn't seal well even after cleaning and should be replaced. Go to the junk yard and look at cable operated heater control valves. Choose one that will work on your truck. I used a 1978 Ford F100 valve. Someone else here used a Honda valve. You could also use the Toyota valve from a later model FJ40 if you can find it.

 

[4mydogs]

I'm going to have to replace it. I got a few good turns in before the t-handle gave way. It's still throwing out a LOT of heat. Will look into all options: original style, ball valve, F100-style. The ball valve with a substantial handle is appealing. I bet I'd never have to replace it again!