Heater T's the $1 version

[Spike555]

how can I explain you on 5 years old level , trust me on this one Aluminium(radiator, head, any alloy) will get major Corrosion when Copper is in the mix. in this case you have 3 factors Al(radiator,head)+Cu(T-pipe)+Coolant (electrolyte) = Corrosion
you can say that not a lot of Copper just some T-pipe , that just enough to do the damage.
the best way to enplane to look at this picture and read some materials

One of the purposes of engine coolant is to prevent corrosion, that's why it has corrosion inhibitors in it.
Yes aluminum resist's corrosion better than copper/brass.
If you change your coolant every two years you will be fine. Coolant is cheap. Just a drain and fill is all that is needed and everything will be right with the world.

I'm no chemist but I used to be a bulk automotive fluids salesman. i.e. I sold bulk engine coolant, which means I had to sit through a class and learn all I could about engine coolant and cooling systems...as long as you use a high quality modern (no old school green) coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water you are going to be fine with copper/aluminum/brass in your cooling system all at the same time.
For peace of mind change the coolant every 2yrs. Coolant wears out, it's max life is 5yrs before the corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricant wear out. In over the road trucks that hold many many gallons of coolant it will last 500,000 miles with the corrosion inhibitors and lubricants being replaced (recharged we called it) every 250k.
You can go longer if you check the ph balance of the coolant and it is in check, but for the average consumer it is just best to change the coolant every 5yrs and be done with it, because coolant is cheap.
I prefer Prestone Universal LongLife coolant, that is what is in my truck, my wifes van, my mothers car.
Drain and fill every 2yrs, no worries and life goes on.

 

[skhochay]

One of the purposes of engine coolant is to prevent corrosion, that's why it has corrosion inhibitors in it.
Yes aluminum resist's corrosion better than copper/brass.
If you change your coolant every two years you will be fine. Coolant is cheap. Just a drain and fill is all that is needed and everything will be right with the world.

I'm no chemist but I used to be a bulk automotive fluids salesman. i.e. I sold bulk engine coolant, which means I had to sit through a class and learn all I could about engine coolant and cooling systems...as long as you use a high quality modern (no old school green) coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water you are going to be fine with copper/aluminum/brass in your cooling system all at the same time.
For peace of mind change the coolant every 2yrs. Coolant wears out, it's max life is 5yrs before the corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricant wear out. In over the road trucks that hold many many gallons of coolant it will last 500,000 miles with the corrosion inhibitors and lubricants being replaced (recharged we called it) every 250k.
You can go longer if you check the ph balance of the coolant and it is in check, but for the average consumer it is just best to change the coolant every 5yrs and be done with it, because coolant is cheap.
I prefer Prestone Universal LongLife coolant, that is what is in my truck, my wifes van, my mothers car.
Drain and fill every 2yrs, no worries and life goes on.

I told you the facts of chemistry the rest is up to your own judgment - whatever floats your boat.

 

[reznunt]

Where can I get a cast iron tee

 

[skhochay]

just info for those who care.

 

[MauiUZJ]

I told you the facts of chemistry the rest is up to your own judgment - whatever floats your boat.

 

[MauiUZJ]

OK, since I am hoping to get another 200k out of this engine, I do not want to risk any damage over something so small...

I'm going to change them out for the Four Seasons 84543 Fitting's listed on Amazon when they arrive next year....

Not sure what metal they are, Someone said they are steel. I assume they are at least coated with a non corrosive layer of Zinc given the table above.

In the meantime I am not going to disable the heaters & lose effective defrosting ability in this weather.

Dad always said

"A temporary fix is OK as long as it doesn't become permanent..."

It has been Cold, wet, & after a morning of 2" per hour rainfall, there was enough water in the streets of town yesterday to convince me a snorkel would be a good idea for our family ride...

 

[jerryb]

which fails first, the solder on the copper tees, the aluminum radiator or piping, or the copper tees themselves?
I think plastic is a more noble choice.

 

[re_guderian]

which fails first, the solder on the copper tees, the aluminum radiator or piping, or the copper tees themselves?
I think plastic is a more noble choice.

Aren't failing plastic tees the reason for this thread in the first place?

 

[Julian Stead]

I think whatever you choose to use, changing out the coolant at the correct intervals is the most important, you could change the plastic Tee’s with the T/belt every 90k and there shouldn’t be a issue then.

 

[jerryb]

Aren't failing plastic tees the reason for this thread in the first place?

I'm sorry you didn't get the joke.

 

[re_guderian]

I'm sorry you didn't get the joke.

My bad. My chemistry sense of humor hadn't yet kicked in for the day.

And now one for the debate at hand...

 

[MauiUZJ]

You could change the plastic Tee’s with the T/belt every 90k and there shouldn’t be a issue then.

That would be fine, unless you had Lexus do your maintenance. My truck had the original timing belt water pump & T's still in place at 197k...

The original owners were elderly, & thankfully never revved the engine. They had Lexus of Maui do their maintenance work, or lack thereof...

 

[Julian Stead]

That would be fine, unless you had Lexus do your maintenance. My truck had the original timing belt water pump & T's were still in place at 197k...

The original owners were elderly, & thankfully never revved the engine. They had Lexus of Maui do their maintenance work, or lack thereof...

This is why Dealer History is not worth jack in my opinion. You can refuse the extra work and still get the service book stamped. This so the servicing Looks cheap to potential buyers, I am in the UK and worked for a dealership and things like Coolant change, brake fluid change, power steering flush, brake service(report included)was a extra and always refused. Do you know that I never done or saw once anyone change the power steering fluid.

To me you shouldn’t get the stamp from the dealer until all Work required is carried out and not just after a oil change, lights check, a few filters and a report on suspension and brake condition.

You find brakes are low, shocks leaking, wheel bearing as movement, “Do you want this done sir” “nah not at this moment in time”. Book stamped and away he goes with a oil change and a report.

Not sure if you use the service book and stamps in the US, but it should be more than a stamp, it should have a written report.

 

[MauiUZJ]

Yeah the stamp book sounds like a farse... In the states, the original receipts detail the inspections and technician notes...

I had all of the post Dealer receipts from the second owner.

I called the Dealer after inspecting the timing belt & finding cracks through the rubber layer & into the fiber reinforced layer of the 3 layer belt. There was a crack in between every tooth on the entire belt...

The dealer had no record of the T-Belt ever having been touched in 185k of dealer service history.

Anyway back to T's. The plastic ones clearly should be changed well before 200k. Mine failed at 204k... heck a lot of stuff should have been done earlier, but that is probably why I got my 100 for a steal...

 

[pawwright]

Nuns are going to die.....

I was pretty sure it was cardinals......

 

[Spike555]

The plastic "T"s fail because of age not miles, plastic gets brittle with age and will crack.

 

[Spike555]

Aren't failing plastic tees the reason for this thread in the first place?

Yes, yes they are the reason for this thread in the first place.

 

[Spike555]

OK, since I am hoping to get another 200k out of this engine, I do not want to risk any damage over something so small...

I'm going to change them out for the Four Seasons 84543 Fitting's listed on Amazon when they arrive next year....

Not sure what metal they are, Someone said they are steel. I assume they are at least coated with a non corrosive layer of Zinc given the table above.

In the meantime I am not going to disable the heaters & lose effective defrosting ability in this weather.

Dad always said

"A temporary fix is OK as long as it doesn't become permanent..."

It has been Cold, wet, & after a morning of 2" per hour rainfall, there was enough water in the streets of town yesterday to convince me a snorkel would be a good idea for our family ride...

View attachment 1595905

Engine coolant coats everything with the anti corrosion additives. So whatever you use it is going to be coated and protected by the engine coolant's built in corrosion inhibitors.
The aluminum block and heads, aluminum radiator, plastics, metal freeze plugs and sometimes brass impeller on the water pump are all protected by that additive.
The protective layer is only a nano millimeter thick, but thats all that is needed.

 

[Spike555]

I told you the facts of chemistry the rest is up to your own judgment - whatever floats your boat.

You told me nothing, you used symbols and charts to explain it to me, I do not know the periodic elements, and I can't read charts that are over my head.

 

[RyanStl]

I agree with skhochay and would not put metal fittings in. I replaced my plastic tees with OEM plastic tees after about 145K miles and honestly, I'll probably never have to worry about it again. My tees did chip when pulled, but they weren't completely gone like some of the pics. I don't blame Toyota engineers anymore than you would for a change interval for other maintenance items.