heater pull switch (1 Viewer)

[Beckley]

my interior Heater switch moves only about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Is that normal? When I look under the hood at the heater water flow module, it doesn't allow for much movement of the cable. I have to assume this is normal....am I correct? Thanks

 

[brian]

sounds about right

 

[skidplate]

Ya, I had the same thought on mine, but I guess that's normal. My heater goes on and off ok.

 

[GA Architect]

Here is the throw on my warm pull knob in the on/open position.

 

[1911]

my interior Heater switch moves only about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Is that normal? When I look under the hood at the heater water flow module, it doesn't allow for much movement of the cable. I have to assume this is normal....am I correct? Thanks

Those heater valves get old, rusty, crudded up, etc. over time. My knob moves more than that, maybe an inch or more? Assuming you're speaking of the WARM PULL knob as @GA Architect mentioned.

My complaint is not that it doesn't open enough; rather that it does not shut all the way - there is always some hot water circulating through the heater core even in the summer.

 

[cruiserkev]

Installing one of these ball valves in conjunction with a clean heater valve will effectively shut off the heat in the Summer. I did mine last Spring and it worked great, should have done it years ago. Definitely not OEM but much better than unwanted heat on an already hot day.

 

[GA Architect]

For those that like pics......replaced mine last year.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I offer Fully Restored Warm Pull Cables , 100% New Parts , only Knob and steel brass guide tube's are restored to better then new condition .with Modern Materials Like Galvanized Solid core wire cable & Marine Grade Sealed & NYLON Lined Black cable liner jacket , New yellow zinc hex nuts too .......

knobs are always restored to my usual Top Shelf Only standards ....

THICK THICK ...solid brass end cap Ferell's as well , a major improvement over the cheap steel and yellow brass crap ones TOYOTA originally used ....

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

My TOYOTA Heater Control Valves KITS , come with Both New

OEM Mounting hardware SEMS bolts , & w/ 2 New OEM Hose Clamps at No

additional cost .

- PLUG & PLAY the VintageTEqParts way

 

[1911]

View attachment 2176579

Yes, I need to do that one of these days. I usually take my top off every summer, so it hasn't annoyed me too much yet.

 

[Beckley]

Thanks for all your help.......I think mine must be normal, but it just didn't seem correct. Guess I can check that off the list!

 

[atx40er]

My TOYOTA Heater Control Valves KITS , come with Both New

OEM Mounting hardware SEMS bolts , & w/ 2 New OEM Hose Clamps at No

additional cost .

- PLUG & PLAY the VintageTEqParts way



View attachment 2176603View attachment 2176600View attachment 2176601View attachment 2176602

Do you still have these?

 

[3_puppies]

Do you still have these?

almost positive he does, visit VintageTEqParts.com

 

[Jeremyrig]

Thanks for all your help.......I think mine must be normal, but it just didn't seem correct. Guess I can check that off the list!

I pulled the cable off of my valve to see how much play was possible and found that my cable was limited. A little force broke away whatever corrosion and I finished up with some lube and now the play is 3x more.

 

[AntFarm]

Many folks talk about the firewall heater valve not fully closing. I’ve had success on three different valves by making sure the valve is completely closed BEFORE tightening the clamp down on the ferrule end of the cable. The cable tends to have slightly less total travel than the heater valve actuator, so you can set up the cable/valve to be either fully open when the WARM PULL knob is pulled out, OR fully closed when it’s pushed in, but not both. To set it up correctly, start with cable detached entirely from the valve. Push the WARM PULL knob fully in, then go to the firewall and manually close the heater valve fully. Gently slip the cable end loop over the actuator post and, while still holding the valve closed with your left hand, tighten the clamp onto the cable ferrule with your right hand. Now your valve will be fully closed when the knob is pushed in. I’ve had zero leak-by using this method.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Do you still have these?

Yes i do

please send me a PM ........

i can help get you squared away using all oem parts ...

both the valves get crusty rusty and old age time etc .....

replace is nice , and use only factory RED full strength fluid you have to dilute with distilled water

warm pulls cables take the worst beating in my opinion , they were forced at too sharp of a turn to survive free motion long term


i make my restored ones approx 2 " longer so as to ease the ellipse and arc radious curve stress of the new , young , and indeed

top shelf fresh lease on life i give them .....

This Holidays Season be on the look out for a good , still limited supply of my restored warm pulls both early and late models

cores trade in are always welcomed , but this year will NOT be required as in the past /.,.,.