Heater hose routing ??? pics - help me verify (1 Viewer)

[xiero]

My heater blows cold. (Hasn't worked since I bought it 2 months ago.)

I flushed the system 2 days ago.
Valve is fully functional.
System has been burped (every last bubble - spent over 60 minutes...)
Rear core is like new. Front core looks clean (you can kind of see it in pic 2 or 3).



Searched for pics of heater hose routing, couldn't find them.


Pic 1 shows hot and cold heater hoses under hood.
Bottom hose that goes through tubing connected to engine block connects to a T at the bottom hose on radiator (cold).
Hose from water pump is hot.
Hose from drivers side to firewall is cold.
Hoses in cab are all cold.

Pic 2 shows hoses in the cab at heater core connecting point.

Pic 3 shows what I think the interior routing should be.

Any suggestions appreciated. THANKS!

 

[marinerah]

try checking www.sor.com they have pretty good diagrams of what your looking for.

 

[xiero]

Thanks - Found a diagram showing that the interior hoses appear to be routed correctly, but can't find a picture of where the bottom hose that runs along the block is supposed to connect. If, in fact it is connected correctly, how come no heat??? I think I've checked everything listed in the 20+ threads I've seen on the subject.

try checking www.sor.com they have pretty good diagrams of what your looking for.

 

[Degnol]

Jason mine runs from the fitting on the head, to the heater control valve, through the heater(s) and back out the firewall to the hard pipe you speak of and into a fitting on the lower radiator hose.
Your T-stat is good?, installed both gaskets?

Ed

 

[Coolerman]

On my 71 where the connection to the rear head is there is a valve. You have to manually open that valve in order to get heat.

 

[spotcruiser]

The heater circuit runs (hot to cold) from the head to the heater valve, through the heater cores (in parallel), and to the lower radiator hose.

If you have that routing, which it appears you do, then you should have heat.

Check two things:
1. That the fitting on the head is open (most likely problem).
2. That your heater valve is actually open (not just the actuating rod, but the valve itself).

If the hose from the head to the firewall is cold, the fitting on the head is probably clogged.

The other heater hoses you mentioned are only for the oil cooler and have nothing to do with interior heat.

 

[xiero]

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. The connection to the head does not have a valve - just a brass connector. I'll remove it and make sure there is flow. I'll also play with the heat control valve this afternoon as well. It looks like it is functioning, but I'll take the thing off and make sure.

Thanks again. I'll post up with findings.

Jason

 

[Degnol]

If both the hose, to and from the heater control valve are cold, the problem is the fitting on the head, If it is hot to the valve and cold after, then it is the valve. There is a lot of mung that likes to collect in dead-end places in the cooling system that don't get a lot of circulation.
If you end up flushing the system, bypass the heater when you do because anything you dislodge with the flush will get plugged in the heater core(s). You don't want to trade one problem for another.

GL

Ed

 

[xiero]

Got it figured out, and go figure, it was something that had I just followed instructions from other posts, would have fixed it.

BUT!!!


I have pics to post for the next guy.

I pulled the valve cover, and temp sensor so I could take he brass connector out of the head. It was fairly clean, with a little bit of reddish slime. I cleaned it, and re-installed.

I took the hose between the head and heater valve off and sure enough, the valve was the culprit.

I removed the valve, and the other end was plain old anti-freeze - looked clean - this verified that the valve was the issue.

I took the valve in the house, and laid it out on one of the "good" dish towels . The crud inside was unbelievable.

I soaked it in some CLR for about an hour, taking it out periodically to scrape, prod, and try to get it clean. I got it to where water would flow through easily, at almost full tap pressure in the kitchen sink.

I took it back outside, reinstalled, burped the cooling system, and as amazing as it sounds - the heater works.

When it warms up, I am going to plumb a ball valve on the inside under the dash. I can't believe how hot the rear heater hoses get - almost enough to heat the interior by radiating!!

So, evidently, even though I flushed the system, the calcium and rust deposits held fast. I'm glad they did because I couldn't imagine that stuff in my heater core.

And here I thought I had the unique heater problem of the year. :whoops:

MUD: 1
ME: 0

 

[brian]

yeap, these things are not normally lacking for cab heat.

soft top, no rear fly. till it gets below 20*F, i don't get real cold.