heater heats, temp gauge higher??? 2nd attempt (1 Viewer)

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www.barryhause.com
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The good news is: I have heat. I finally followed the advice of a thread written several months agone and swapped out the upper thermostat gasket. I put a new Toyota t-stat in as well as replaced the gasket goop with a toyota paper gasket. I installed the heater control valve severel weeks ago. There is now unequivocal heat in the truck.

The only remaining uncertainty is the engine tempurature gauge. The owners manual shows the normal needle zone slightly below half-way. My needle is now running slightly above half-way. Before I installed the new t-stat it was well below half-way. Should I be concerned about this? I'm afraid I may have overheating problems when the warm weather returns. Is there something which can be adjusted?

One factor may be a cheap aftermarket fan clutch.

Any thoughts, anyone?

bh
 
cheap aftermarket fan clutches shouldnt even be an option really. they are made for cars, with a sloted pattern that somehow fits our cruisers. they are not made for as big or heavy a fan as a LC, and SUCK. I have had one stop working after a few thousand miles, and another that grenaded and cost me a radiator. The ONLY fan clutch you should use is OEM toyota, which can be found a bunch cheaper though some vendors.
 
cruiserbrett said:
cheap aftermarket fan clutches shouldnt even be an option really. they are made for cars, with a sloted pattern that somehow fits our cruisers. they are not made for as big or heavy a fan as a LC, and SUCK. I have had one stop working after a few thousand miles, and another that grenaded and cost me a radiator. The ONLY fan clutch you should use is OEM toyota, which can be found a bunch cheaper though some vendors.

Thanks for the input.

One tries to save a little cash. Not worth it in the long run.....

bh
 
Agree on the aftermarket fan clutch. I had one, and it was poor quality. OEM is the way to go. One other thought though is to make sure that you "burp" your cooling system. Goal is to get rid of all bubbles. Park on a hill. Remove Rad cap, run both heaters at full, and let the truck idle for 10 mins or so. Remember to keep the rad full during this process. Refit the cap, and you should be good to go.

All of this of course assumes that the rad is in tip top shape!
 
Barry,

My guess is that the fan clutch is indeed going out. I bought one from Bill at Gray Daniels right before the Crawl. I paid $336.72 for a fan clutch, water pump and a gallon go Toyota red antifreeze with my CLC discount. Make sure you ask him to order the water pump gasket for you even though it is supposed to be in there... it never is.

There's a test in the book for fan clutches, but I have heard of more than a few bad ones passing the test. You can do just the clutch, but you know me.. I always want to do everything possible while I'm in there.

HTH
 
euclid said:
Barry,

My guess is that the fan clutch is indeed going out. I bought one from Bill at Gray Daniels right before the Crawl. I paid $336.72 for a fan clutch, water pump and a gallon go Toyota red antifreeze with my CLC discount. Make sure you ask him to order the water pump gasket for you even though it is supposed to be in there... it never is.

There's a test in the book for fan clutches, but I have heard of more than a few bad ones passing the test. You can do just the clutch, but you know me.. I always want to do everything possible while I'm in there.

HTH

Thanks. It seems to have leveled off on it's own. I'm going to drive it a bit and most likely swap out the crappy clutch (fan) before the next long drive.

When we gonna check out that new ORV park in Clinton? Even though I'm not really into this for the wheeling.

bh
 

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