Heater add to an BJ40... (1 Viewer)

[kurtataltos]

I am considering buying a '79 BJ40 that has no heater. Before buying it I would like to ask
about the possibility of adding a heater. I am not the worlds greatest mechanic and need to
know if this is a major undertaking, not practical, not a crisis.... read: how much trouble am
I getting into?

Apparently there are aftermarket non-oem versions, used OEM units, used rear FJ60 units... lots of
alternatives. Just doing a touchy/feely whether this is a major undertaking or not. Your
wisdom, opinions and comments appreciated. Thank you !!

 

[Rusto]

I am going through this right now. purchased a 75 BJ40 with no heater and I'm accumulating parts to add OEM heat. It is NOT an easy process.
Does your BJ40 have the heater delete plate that some have, or is the firewall just solid with no holes at all? Mine is the latter.
Is your BJ40 24V or 12V? Mine is 24V, which makes it harder to source the parts that need electricity (Blower Motor and fan pull knob)

I don't know about aftermarket, as I am set on adding OEM, but here is what is involved.
Use MUD to source parts, that's been my best luck

What you'll need if yours is 24V with no holes in firewall and you want to go OEM.

24V Blower Motor
Heater box and duct work
Hoses and fittings (sounds easier than it is)
Cutout for US spec FJ40 firewall that contains the two rectangular holes for duct work from blower to heater box (not the easiest thing to find, but MUD prevailed)
The three knobs you'll need (the fan pull knob being 24v) other two are just cable operations to open water flow and fresh air flap within blower motor

The hard part, in my opinion - is cutting out the firewall (Don't eff that up!) and then welding in place the firewall cutoff.

I've actually pressed pause on doing this, even though I've accumulated about 80% of the parts, as the firewall issue at this point requires me to hire someone else to do it.

So..... for my Christmas present... my family got me a welder!! I've welded a total of about 30 minutes, 30 years ago, so I have a looong way to go before I'll feel comfortable doing the work required to enable OEM heat, but I will get there. taking some lessons, building random items and will do some sheet metal repair on the 40 before I tackle the firewall. And it's something I've always wanted to learn.


All in all, I'll be in it for about $1,000 - $1,200 in just parts and I feel like I've been lucky with finding some of the parts that fit my budget. And I figure the welder will save me tons of money in the long run.

Heat is a must as I live in SW CO and even in the summer at high elevation it can get pretty chilly.

Good luck!

 

[kurtataltos]

Great reply, Rusto ! It's a major undertaking. I have been looking at Vintage Air as an option, however, that's obviously not
an OEM solution. Good luck on getting this all put together. And, yes, welding the firewall would be a bit problematic for most
folks. Keep us posted !!

 

[Rusto]

For sure... There is a build thread around here somewhere...

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

@Rusto the fan pull knob is not voltage specific... You can use a us spec version. It is the resistor in the blower that is voltage specific, but the switch is universal.

 

[Rusto]

Thats great to know, @BreckenridgeCruiser. I could never get a definitive answer on that before

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

No worries. Switches don't care about voltage, but resistors, motors, bulbs and relays do. Unless the switch handles variation on the voltage ( like a later model dimming head/parking light switch) then switches just relay the power between the things that do care. Hope that helps!

 

[kurtataltos]

Sooooo.... the on line videos all focus on the firewall attachment and needing a hole for the water heater water in/out. okie dokie. How about the actual "other end" of the heater hoses... I am assuming that a new thermostat housing with an additional takeoff is required and some sort of "T" connection at the bottom of the radiator. And... a "regulator" in the engine compartment to manage hot water flow. Is that about "it" ??? It's kind of amazing that most of the on-line stuff revolves around having a V8 installed....

 

[Rusto]

My thermostat housing has a place for a heater hose to fit. Coming right out of the top. Mine has an aftermarket temp guage plugged into it at the moment, but its there. Another hose will plug into the block in the back on the drivers side, underneath the 4th plug. I believe that part is available from Toyota.

You'll need the cut off valve that is close to the firewall on the passenger side, too. That is operated by one of the knobs in the cab via a cable.

You might have better luck getting more input on the Diesel Tech / 24V forum, by the way

 

[Rusto]

Oh, and please share links to the online videos of which you speak. I'd like to see them, too

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I have the 24 volt heater parts. This was a Canadian spec. BJ42. The truck came with the center console heater. I still have most of the parts. I’m only missing the front heater box & ducts which are the same for a diesel or gasser.

I still have the firewall with the blower attached.