Heat Shield Intake Leak HELP (1 Viewer)

[Spanky Pete]

I just pulled the carb on my FJ60. The vehicle has 205,000 miles and is new to me. I had an awful whistle coming from the drivers side of the engine. Someone on here on another thread recommended retorquing the intake manifold bolts. I am trying to get to these and so I pulled the carb and now I am trying to get the damn heat shield/carb spacer off of there. It looks like my intake leak may have been where this heat shield/spacer meets the intake manifold (see picture). It looks like the heat shield/spacer removal (and proper reinstall with gasket compound?) would be easier if I removed that air line that connects each cylinder (technical name for this?). I loosened the top nut on each cylinder line but it does not pull free.

Do I have to loosen the portion threaded into the cylinder?

Also, I noticed that when I pumped the accelerator only the passenger side barrel of the carb gets a spray of gas. Is that normal? Should I rebuld the carb while it off?

 

[2mbb]

The accelerator pump only pumps fluid into the primary venturi, so that seems OK.

When I have removed the heat shield, I usually end up removing the carburetor hold-down studs. Otherwise, it seems like it won't come off with the studs installed. It also helps to loosen or remove the vacuum manifold, if you still have it. I have not had to remove the air injection manifold (the manifold that screws into the head at each cylinder.

To remove a stud, take two bolts and screw them both onto the top of the stud and then jam them together. Once they are tight against each other, you can turn the bottom nut counter clockwise and the stud should unscrew. If just the nuts turn, then try jamming them tighter together. I think pulling the studs will be easier than removing the air injection manifold.

To install the stud, again use two nuts jammed together, but this time put the wrench on the top nut and turn clockwise.

 

[Spanky Pete]

I figure I will rebuild the carb while I have it off. Has anyone tried the kit from coolcruisers.com?

 

[Spike Strip]

The air line you're talking about is the Air Injection Rail or Air Rail. It will pull out of the injectors, but it's probably rusted frozen. You're gonna have to get some PB Blaster, AeroKroil or good penetrant and spray everything down and wait. Spray a couple of times a day for a couple of days, if you can wait. Use it on all the bolts your planning on removing -- Especially the Intake/Exhaust manifold bolts. Be patient or you're gonna brake a bolt and then you'll really be mad.

These are old motors and require a little finesse and patience, unless you've got a machine shop and wanna fix or replace what you break.

Aerokroil works the best for me, but others like different products. Aerokroil is only avail online, far as I know. PB Blaster is at Vato-zone, etc.

Carb spacer and insulator are just stuck-- Again, a good penetrant will loosen them... Be careful not to tear the insulator. You did remove the two bolts holding it down ?

Do a search and find out about double-gasketing for the exh/intake gasket.

Don't know about the carb. That's for FJ40jim. If you're going to rebuild it, don't do it yourself unless you have a lot of experience. V. complicated carbs that require special tools. Send it to FJ40jim or to Mark at Marksoffroad.net Quicker turn-around with Mark.

Good luck

 

[D'Animal]

You can retorque you intake/exhasut manifold bolts/nuts without taking all that stuff off.

 

[Spanky Pete]

OK heat shield is off. I ended up getting the air rail off with a little silicone spray. Made it real easy to get the heat shield off.

Now, I am trying to determine where the black gunk just inside the intake manifold throat is coming from. At first, I thought it was from a leak at either the heat shield to carb or heat shield to intake manifold mating surfaces, but from this picture it looks like it may be from where that other piece (the one that has the carb fan temp sensor on the end). Mounts up to the intake. Anyone have experience with leaks in this area.

Also, one of the intake manifold mounting nuts was completely missing, so it looks like I will have to run to the nut and bolt shop unless anyone here has an extra one they would be willing to drop in the mail.

I am still debating the carb rebuild. I have it off. It seemed to operate just fine. It looks like I will need a new idle mixture adjustment screw. It is pretty damaged from the "drill through the cap".

Thanks for the help.

 

[D'Animal]

You forgot the picture.

[/qoute] Now, I am trying to determine where the black gunk just inside the intake manifold throat is coming from. At first, I thought it was from a leak at either the heat shield to carb or heat shield to intake manifold mating surfaces, but from this picture it looks like it may be from where that other piece (the one that has the carb fan temp sensor on the end). Mounts up to the intake. Anyone have experience with leaks in this area.
[/quote]

 

[D'Animal]

Plan on replacing the intake/exhaust gasket.

Also, one of the intake manifold mounting nuts was completely missing.

 

[2mbb]

The inlet mounted to the intake manifold below the heat shield is for the EGR (exhaust gas recirulation) inlet (the parts forward of the carburetor) and the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) inlet (parts to the rear of the carburetor). If you see signs of leaks, you should try and replace this gasket. Also make sure both the EGR and PCV inlets are clear of carbon build up and gunk.

 

[AfricanToy]

can anyone here show me (using the digram above) how to do a desmog on a stock 2f engine?

which pieces do I pull off and which holes do I plug?

 

[Spanky Pete]

Ok, here is that picture. The missing Intake mounting nut in green and the carbon gunk circled in red.

So a replacement of intake/exhaust manifold gasket will be in order you say? I was hoping that wasn't the case. (1) should I try and track down a toyota nut for that or should I bring the other nut over to the nut and bolt supply shop to see what the can dig up?

I will do some searching on the said gasket replacement, but I am sure I will come up some questions.

I have the carb and I am planning on undertaking the rebuild myself (as of right now). I ordered the toyota rebuild kit from coolcruisers.com ~55.00. I will have to do some more researching in this forum before I delve in, but when I do I will be sure to post some questions. (2) Already have one, where can I find a new idle air mixture adjustment screw if the rebuild kit does not include one?

I gotta say, I love these rigs and love this forum. I hope I am not abusing it with all my newbie posts.

Thanks 2mbb for the scanned parts fiche. I am looking into ordering the fms on emissions and engine tomorrow.

 

[2mbb]

Any nut that is the correct size should work ok. However, metric nuts/bolts from japan have different outside dimensions (different socket size) than European metric nuts/bolts. This means you need a different size socket or wrench. What's more important is to get a washer that is the correct size (not too big). If you want to buy these from toyota the part number for the nut is 90170-12211 and the washer is 90201-12051.

The OEM carb repair kit should come with an idle mixture screw. However, this is the "repair" kit, not the "gasket" kit that comes with fewer parts. If the CCOT kit does not, you can purchase the screw from toyota. The part number is: 21271-61140.

 

[Spike Strip]

21271-61140 = $17

 

[Dynosoar]

Yes you should replace the intake/exhaust gasket. You have it almost all apart anyway. I would not recommend a self rebuild of the carb. They are finiky beasts and there are two pros that know how to do it right. Mark @ Marks off road, and Jim Chenowith (FJ40JIM). Good luck. BTW most of the guys on this forum do not like the quality of parts or sevice they get from CCOT. I have no personal experience with them, as I live within 10 miles of SOR and MAF and Cruiser Dan is always just a phone call away.

Dynosoar

 

[Spanky Pete]

"The OEM carb repair kit should come with an idle mixture screw. However, this is the "repair" kit, not the "gasket" kit that comes with fewer parts. If the CCOT kit does not, you can purchase the screw from toyota. "

So the Toyota carb repair kit comes with more parts, correct?

Thanks for the PNs!!

 

[Spanky Pete]

"I would not recommend a self rebuild of the carb. They are finiky beasts and there are two pros that know how to do it right."

You guys have me just about scared me enough to call and cancel that carb repair kit. I just can't afford a professional rebuild at this time. I am thinking of just cleaning without dissambly and bolting it all back together with some new gasket material. The dang thing worked just fine. the idle/air mixture screw just needs replaced...$17!!!

Maybe I get the toyota repair kit, use the idle air mixture screw and then pass on the kit sans the screw at a marginal markdown. ??

So CCOT is not well liked here? but they have those free girly posters with each order...

 

[2mbb]

"The OEM carb repair kit should come with an idle mixture screw. However, this is the "repair" kit, not the "gasket" kit that comes with fewer parts. If the CCOT kit does not, you can purchase the screw from toyota. "

So the Toyota carb repair kit comes with more parts, correct?

Thanks for the PNs!!

Toyota offered two different carburetor kits, a repair kit that includes gaskets plus parts like the accelerator pump, check balls, needle valves, etc. The gasket kit just contains the gaskets. This is a crappy picture, but you can get the idea. I don't know what the CCOT kit contains.

None of the OEM kits contain the secondary diaphragm. If you're going to rebuild, you should consider changing this also. Without a properly functioning secondary diaphragm your secondary throttle plate won't open up.

 

[Spike Strip]

Don't mean to scare you -- But only you know your ability - If you think you can do it, go for it! If you run into trouble, there's help here... But if you are gonna do it yourself, at a minimum, you're gonna need the 2F engine manual; It has detailed carb rebuild and test procedures in it. CCOT should have that, too.

I don't think there's a PDF download for that one... ??? Is there ?


Now stop spankin' your Peetie and get to work !!

 

[Spanky Pete]

Yeah, Spike Strip I was planning on getting the emissions and 2F engine repair manuals. I just ordered the emissions manual from...phone 800-622-2033, but the 2F engine manual is back ordered, so it may be 4 weeks or more before I get that one. CCOT wants twice as much.


I am going to use a single fel-pro on the manifolds. I think I will just cut out the EGR inlet gasket and the intake to riser gasket from stock.

Should I use any type of spray gasket compound on these?

It looks like Spector has that intake mounting nut and washer in stock.