Heat mitigation in the cab (1 Viewer)

[CHAS404]

simple passenger side AC unit on a 74 FJ43. minimal insulation. truck in florida august 100 degrees sweating profusely. this unit is nice though bec small. unit came from Colombia but there are equals in the USA.

that naked firewall HAS to be covered.

 

[CHAS404]

bad photo but this is the nostagicac slimline unit has heat and ac. I like it better than vintage bec the vintage looked too bulky underneath. not to highjack as poster was working more on insulation but figure AC will be park of the 'my FJ40 is too hot'.

note this truck has nice ac vent to the left of the steering wheel. truck in summer florida still hot. this the best AC unit I have found so far. after 30 mins driving in Florida summer still sweating. truck had insulated mats and fiberglass hard top.

 

[CHAS404]

Nostalgic AC - FJ-40 Toyota Landcruiser Kit w/ 2F engine

this is the kit. we then ran remote vent to the driver's side.

 

[CHAS404]

Found it! sorry again I highjacked. A lot of people suffer trying to figure out AC. I am still working on this.
if you wanted a nice unit with 4 vents or so under this is it. Nostalgiaac out of Ocala. maybe the vintage air is stronger (i never tried one) but this one is much slimmer. we ran one vent to the left of the steering wheel.

 

[sggoat]

UPDATE 4-30-12 #1

I bought some 2” X 15 Lava wrap and tried it on the manifold and on the exhaust pipe. It was almost impossible to wrap the manifold, but it did lower the temp from 500-550 to ~ 450F range. Truth is I do not not think that would translate to driver comfort and it certainly would be hard to keep in place and clean.

On the Exhaust pipe it was interesting. Before the wrap the pipe was very hot 450F right at exit of manifold and drops to 200-225 F at the turn back 14 inches later. With the wrap the high spot is only 350F, but downstream the temp goes up to close to 300F. Basically just averages the temp out over the whole length. I did not expect that. After a much longer drive, the pipe right below drivers feet was >300F with the wrap, whereas before it would be in the 180-200F range.

Results – Lava wrap type stuff not worth the risk of rust and mess.
View attachment 627454View attachment 627455

The heat is there, coming from the engine--it will find a way out-if you insulate, it will simply move further down the pipe(as you have found). I think anything you can do to reflect or dissipate before it gets to the floor will help

 

[sggoat]

One of the best "HEAT DISSIPATORS" I found was the installation of headers. Ever since, I have zero problems with vapor-lock; The engine bay starts to cool immediately after shutdown(as opposed to the heat rise associated when the big old cast iron exhaust mani is there). I have even removed the carb cooling fan--don't need it anymore. They(headers) are certainly not a fix-all--the cab still gets warm on a long trip here in SW Fla., but it's not even close to how it was with old manifold.

 

[MOTOV8R]

I imagine a lot of the heat transfer is convection. Air comes through the grill, radiator and exhaust manifold picks up heat and strikes the firewall then gets pushed out the hood and side vents but the majority travels down the firewall and underneath. If you could make an aluminum shield the helps guide the air downward and is in front of the firewall it may prevent some of the firewall heat. Unfortunately there's a lot going on in that area with booster master cylinders, steering shaft.


Thanks for all the real data. This is very useful for deciding how to tackle this issue.

 

[tls3601]

Looking for a solution on my ‘76 and ‘78. I have the heat reflector Matt from CCOT and it helps. But literally feel hot air blowing in from down low near hump. Going to look for any openings in firewall to engine bay and insulate. Baked feet are no fun, ha ha! Both rigs have aftermarket exhaust headers, do OEM exhaust headers keep floor cooler? Any input appreciated.

 

[1911]

Looking for a solution on my ‘76 and ‘78. I have the heat reflector Matt from CCOT and it helps. But literally feel hot air blowing in from down low near hump. Going to look for any openings in firewall to engine bay and insulate. Baked feet are no fun, ha ha! Both rigs have aftermarket exhaust headers, do OEM exhaust headers keep floor cooler? Any input appreciated.

These may or not be helpful to you, but the two things I did to my ('79-build) 1980 that really cooled down the tranny hump and the cab were to replace the distributor with one that had a functioning vacuum advance, and to remove my catalytic converter. Yours should not have a cat converter, but you might check your vacuum advance and make sure it is working. Retarded timing (i.e. not advanced far enough when on the throttle) will make any four-stroke engine run hotter.

Aftermarket headers do dump much more heat into the engine bay and hence the firewall/tub bulkhead and cab than the stock exhaust manifold. The metal is much thinner. You can wrap them to hold in some of the heat, but then you risk trapping moisture on them and having them rust out even faster.

 

[FJ40Savvy]

I was trying to deal with heat issues in the cab as well. I installed an insulation mat under the floor mat and in the back. I found large rolls of insulating material with felt insulation between two reflective layers. Insulation Mat I didn't want to install a product like dynamat because I didn't want to deal with removing it later. Haven't really tested it yet, the weather so far has generally sucked. I think there is a difference in sound level in the cab. It that is even possible in an FJ40.

Turning off the heater valve in the engine bay also makes a difference.

 

[firemanj92]

Also for those with no heat shield around the muffer, I was ably to nip & tuck Flowmaster’s largest heat shield (~$40 #51022) for less than those muffler wrap kits on Amazon. I also used DEI floor and tunnel heat shield under the trans hump.




(@LOPsCruiser)

 

[tls3601]

Thanks for the input guys. Vac advance in both rigs works fine. Is it possible a hole in firewall letting heat escape from under hood? Need to inspect further

 

[SteveH]

On my oven-like '65 FJ45, I insulated the underside of the tunnel cover with Reflectix. Worked very well. Much better to keep the heat out of the cab, than insulate on top of it (from inside the truck). This (of course) does not fix the hot firewall and other heat issues.

Pulling the tunnel cover was a pain, but I had to do it anyway for other drivetrain/shifter work.

 

[Stubby]

Has anyone tried the Lizard skin heat protection spray on coating? I was planning to spray the firewall and complete underside of the tube with the heat protection, then top it with the sound deadener.

Was wondering if anyone had tried using Lizard skin before, and could give some "real world reviews".