Headlight adjustment after OME lift and 33's ? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 4, 2020
Threads
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Location
Durango, CO / Virginia Beach VA
Hey all,

I don't drive my 2018 LC200 terribly much but now hunting season is here I have and been driving home at night a bunch and on a 50 mile trip home I get flashed at least 20 times by oncoming traffic. I don't want to be that guy who doesn't care so I think i need to address this if possible

Is adjusting the projected angle something I can do myself or is this a dealer thing

I am very mechanically inclined but not sure if I need special tools ect..

Thank you

BA489999-8B90-4B62-8419-3ABC6D75FF5F_1_201_a.jpeg
 
Hey all,

I don't drive my 2018 LC200 terribly much but now hunting season is here I have and been driving home at night a bunch and on a 50 mile trip home I get flashed at least 20 times by oncoming traffic. I don't want to be that guy who doesn't care so I think i need to address this if possible

Is adjusting the projected angle something I can do myself or is this a dealer thing

I am very mechanically inclined but not sure if I need special tools ect..

Thank you

View attachment 2472660
You should just need a long (but not thick) #2 Phillips screwdriver and a flat wall or garage door against a level place to park.
Us earlier trucks were lucky in that we had a knob to adjust headlight angle for extra load in back. Yours is automatic, which makes adjusting on the fly impossible. What I’d do is scout out a dark road to use to determine when you have the beam focused far enough out to be effective but not too high, block off one lamp with paper and painters tape, and adjust the other until you like the beam throw. Then use the flat wall to level the other one precisely to the first.

Note that high beams likely have a different adjustment. I’d match whatever inputs you use to get the low beams level.

Also note that there are likely left/right adjusting screws also. Try and sort out which ones do what before you start turning things. And keep track of your turns, so you can undo your changes if needed.

Lastly, be very careful not to go very far with your turns. You shouldn’t need much adjustment for a simple lift. I don’t know the exact number but at some point if you keep turning and turning you can effectively unscrew the adjustment mechanism and that requires disassembling the whole lamp to fix. If you are adjusting things against a wall and don’t see obvious movement, something isn’t right and you need to regroup.
 
Hey all,

I don't drive my 2018 LC200 terribly much but now hunting season is here I have and been driving home at night a bunch and on a 50 mile trip home I get flashed at least 20 times by oncoming traffic. I don't want to be that guy who doesn't care so I think i need to address this if possible

Is adjusting the projected angle something I can do myself or is this a dealer thing

I am very mechanically inclined but not sure if I need special tools ect..

Thank you

I don't want to be "that guy," but there is a fairly detailed (with pictures) description of how to aim the headlights in Section 6.3 pages 493-494 in your Owner's Manual. In case you don't have one, here is a link: 2018 LC200 Owner's Manual

No special tools required.

HTH
 
With my FJ-62 converted to H4/H1 (legal in WA) I used Daniel Stern's guide. Looks like it has been updated to include more patterns. Still only needs level ground, flat wall, tape measure, chalk and screw driver.

 
I don't want to be "that guy," but there is a fairly detailed (with pictures) description of how to aim the headlights in Section 6.3 pages 493-494 in your Owner's Manual. In case you don't have one, here is a link: 2018 LC200 Owner's Manual

No special tools required.

HTH

I don't want to be "that guy," but there is a fairly detailed (with pictures) description of how to aim the headlights in Section 6.3 pages 493-494 in your Owner's Manual. In case you don't have one, here is a link: 2018 LC200 Owner's Manual

No special tools required.

HTH
Thank you.
 
Bottom floor of a parking garage works great for this btw. Flat floors, flat walls, empty... I used my company's parking garages for this.
 
I recently did the same as @Fishinsea on my 2020 HE and didn't have luck adjusting the low/high beam LED aim at the lamp housings. 2" upfront, .75" in rear.

There are a few threads about this, some folks call out the TJM part - (Technical Bulletin TB068) - TJM’s part number 658LINK34E. However I think there are very few if any to be had in US. Anyhow, looking at the part it really is just an adaption of adjustable rod assembly used in for several automobile applications, e.g., thottle body, etc.

I purchased the following Weber Redline Universal carb rod for $26.. with a 2" lift on 33s i closed it down to the minimum 3.5", ~ 90mm. Worked like a charm and if i ever want to go higher i have another 1.25" to play with ;)

weber-redline.jpg


Finished product:

Carb-light-adjustment.jpg
 
I recently did the same as @Fishinsea on my 2020 HE and didn't have luck adjusting the low/high beam LED aim at the lamp housings. 2" upfront, .75" in rear.

There are a few threads about this, some folks call out the TJM part - (Technical Bulletin TB068) - TJM’s part number 658LINK34E. However I think there are very few if any to be had in US. Anyhow, looking at the part it really is just an adaption of adjustable rod assembly used in for several automobile applications, e.g., thottle body, etc.

I purchased the following Weber Redline Universal carb rod for $26.. with a 2" lift on 33s i closed it down to the minimum 3.5", ~ 90mm. Worked like a charm and if i ever want to go higher i have another 1.25" to play with ;)

View attachment 2936713

Finished product:

View attachment 2936715
Great tech!
 
One on each side? Easy job?
There is only one sensor next to the rear shock on the driver side. Very easy job. Just need 10mm open end wrench to secure inter nut and 10mm socket wrens on outside. Took me lest than 15 minutes.
 
I didn't mess with my headlight housings at all. I just adjusted the sensor bracket as @McC13LC has outlined. However, I didn't buy an additional part I just adjusted the stock bracket. There is a slotted hole on the bracket. I just loosened it, moved it down about 3/8" and tightened it back down. No more oncoming traffic flashing me.

For reference I have BP51 lift, ARB front bumper with winch. I was getting brighted all the time with lift but no bumper. Once I had the added weight of the bumper and winch I was getting brighted maybe half the time. Since adjusting the stock bracket I don't think I have been brighted yet.
 
I didn't mess with my headlight housings at all. I just adjusted the sensor bracket as @McC13LC has outlined. However, I didn't buy an additional part I just adjusted the stock bracket. There is a slotted hole on the bracket. I just loosened it, moved it down about 3/8" and tightened it back down. No more oncoming traffic flashing me.

For reference I have BP51 lift, ARB front bumper with winch. I was getting brighted all the time with lift but no bumper. Once I had the added weight of the bumper and winch I was getting brighted maybe half the time. Since adjusting the stock bracket I don't think I have been brighted yet.
I didn’t seem to have any luck getting my headlights down enough using stock bracket - which does provide you ~ 3/8” of adjustment.

The factory rear rake on the 20-21’ HE may have something to do with it? Also my preload on my front BP51s is set to 30mm.
 
I didn’t seem to have any luck getting my headlights down enough using stock bracket - which does provide you ~ 3/8” of adjustment.

The factory rear rake on the 20-21’ HE may have something to do with it? Also my preload on my front BP51s is set to 30mm.
Maybe i've just been lucky and no one has bothered brighting me. Mine is also HE but the pre-load is set to 20mm as recommended by OME for winch and bumper. I live in the boonies and usually have my big spots on which are so bright it is obvious when i turn them off, ha ha. So good chance people are still annoyed with the bright lights but don't bother brighting me because they saw me turn off the spots.

I tried several times to get a hold of TJM with no luck so I gave up and adjusted the stock bracket. I might have to order this part you mentioned just to be sure.
 
I get brighted in stock form in my HE all the time. Even though my new lift should settle to ~1" in the front/0" rear I will definitely need to adjust.
 
My experience has varied w 2018 LC.
Wasn’t getting flashed (factory low beam settings) and setup is BP-51, front bumper w winch, dual batteries, fridge, BB sliders & skids, dual drawers, Slee rear swing out and LRA 24.5. Lots of weight.

Took fridge out for winter. Not sure what else changed. Started getting flashed constantly. Adjusted OEM bracket in rear which helped but still got occasional flashed.

Replaced OEM lower extension with that carb adjuster rod and no more flashes.

When I load the rear cabin up and put fridge back in for next trip, who knows what to expect with headlight level. Easy adjustment if needed.
 
I have a 2018 LC with a net 1-1/2 inch lift and 33 inch tires; I just checked my headlights and then ordered one of the Weber Carb Linkages (3-1/2 to 4-1/2 linkage length) on e-bay. Thanks to @McC13LC for all the great info.
I measured the stock OEM Linkage length to be 2-1/2 inches and with my setup the center of the headlight is at 42-1/2 inches. With the OEM linkage set to max headlight height, the top of the beam against the wall (about 12 feet away) was at 43-3/8 (no wonder I was getting flashed so much). Setting the OEM linkage to min headlight height (1/2 inch slot adjustment) lowered the beam 1-1/4 inches to 42-1/8. So it seems it is about a 2 to 1 height to slot adjustment. According to that headlight adjustment article, at 25 feet from the wall you want it to be about 3 inches lower than a level headlight beam, so with that adjustable carb linkage, I should be able to dial it in to the right level.
 
 
I have a 2018 LC with a net 1-1/2 inch lift and 33 inch tires; I just checked my headlights and then ordered one of the Weber Carb Linkages (3-1/2 to 4-1/2 linkage length) on e-bay. Thanks to @McC13LC for all the great info.
I measured the stock OEM Linkage length to be 2-1/2 inches and with my setup the center of the headlight is at 42-1/2 inches. With the OEM linkage set to max headlight height, the top of the beam against the wall (about 12 feet away) was at 43-3/8 (no wonder I was getting flashed so much). Setting the OEM linkage to min headlight height (1/2 inch slot adjustment) lowered the beam 1-1/4 inches to 42-1/8. So it seems it is about a 2 to 1 height to slot adjustment. According to that headlight adjustment article, at 25 feet from the wall you want it to be about 3 inches lower than a level headlight beam, so with that adjustable carb linkage, I should be able to dial it in to the right level.
@LC Mike, agree with your calculation. That’s the ballpark I was in when scratching my head about how much adjustment was needed.

Also, I used the back of my garage to dial it in 👍.

Have fun..
 

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