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Header or Stock Exhuast Manufold

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by MJM, Aug 14, 2006.

  1. MJM

    MJM SILVER Star

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    Header or Stock Exhuast Manifold

    This is my problem my EGR Pipe stud that comes off of the exhaust manifold broke. Those of you who know this area understand that it it a PITA to fix, I used the new SOR EGR tube but the hella coil in the manifold will not stay put. So the truck has a bad leak upon start-up and runs like crap untill up to temp when hot the leak goes away and runs fine. The truck is fully smogged. My dilema is to pull the exhaust manifold and repair the stud or replace whole manifold with stock or just go to a header and desmog. The truck is an 83 so is smogg exempt in my area. What is involved with removing the exhaust manifold? Do I need take off the intak first? Should I expect other issues while doing this? The truck runs so bad when cold it seems like the whole neighborhood gives me the finger as I sputter by. All other tune-up items have been recently completed, valves, carb, dist, wires, plugs, fuel pump ect.
    Thanks
    MJM
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2006
  2. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

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    I'll bet either the intake is leaking or you have a vac leak due to cracked hoses or a failed vac operated valve. The leak at the egr pipe shouldn't make it run poorly, just noisy. To do anything to the exhaust manifold, you remove the both the intake and exhaust manifolds as a pair. Once they're out you can inspect the for warpage and cracks - def inspect the aluminum floor under the carb and the function of the heat diverter valve in the exhaust manifold. It'll be easy to fix the broken stud too. Stay with the OE exhaust manifold. It'll warm up faster, warp less and last longer than any header.
     
  3. RredFJ40

    RredFJ40

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    While I agree with 60wag about the plus' of the stock manifold, I have to tell that I love my desmogged 60 and ceramic coated header. In the three years it's been on it hasn't warped, I have no leaks and with a block heater, warm up time in the winter is about 2 minutes (and I don't have the carb warmer plumbed). I have excellent power even with 33's and stock gears.
     
  4. Tinker

    Tinker

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    The best reason to replace the exhaust manifold with headers is that it's simply detestible. If you feel differently after you remove it, let me know.
     
  5. Shinichi

    Shinichi

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    I have to agree with REDFJ40. I went with the cheaper header, but have had similar results. I had almost your exact story too. All kinds of noise and backfiring when it was cold, but once it warmed it quieted down and ran good.

    This is what I did.
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=104705

    Now it is quiet and runs without bacfirinig even when cold.
     
  6. Cruzerman

    Cruzerman

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    I personally like headers. I've had one on my 40 for about 12 years and one on the 60 for about 3 years and no problems with either.
     
  7. MJM

    MJM SILVER Star

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    Can I run a header and be smoged

    Do I have to desmog to use the header. I just dread pulling the manifolds and trying to fix Vac leaks. I like the idea of cheating the repair and getting rid of all of the smog stuff. Should I keep the Cat. if I go with headers? I will have to dust off the FSM to test those vac switches but lack the enthusiasm b/c the EGR still leaks. I just can figure out why it runs so bad when cold and so good when up to temp. This is not my first 2F but def. the most troubled.
    MJM
     
  8. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

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    Put a vac gauge on it. Start it up cold. If is has low vac then something is leaking that goes away when it warms up. While its still cold, start unplugging and capping vac hoses until it runs better. If you everything disconnected and plugged and the thing still has low vac, then I think think you have an intake manifold issue. Try spraying the head/manifold joint with the some carb cleaner while idling. That might locate the leak quickly. I recently had an intake manifold failure where the bolt tab near cyl #5 broke off and opened up a significant leak. It sucked (literally) but I ordered a new manifold set from CruiserDan and spent most of a Saturday installing it. It wasn't that bad. The job seemed harder before I did it than after. As for the headers.... how many of you out there removed a properly sealed/functioning manifold pair to install the header? I'll bet most were done to fix a problem and the problem was fixed by sealing the leak. Some headers have an EGR port and claim to be smog legal. Some places won't pass a set of headers even with an EGR. I happen to live in an area where smog testing is a reality. My 60 recently passed an RM240 dyno test with very low emissions (for a carbed vehicle) - stock manifolds, carb, full smog hardware, etc.
     
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