Head Gasket FAQ

COYS

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Grinding valve seats, and valves is factored into Toyota's design. This is why the factory service manual provides guidance on how to grind the valves and valve seats.

If you are taking the engine down for a major overhaul (200k+) and you don't grind the valve seats and valves you aren't fully rebuilding the engine.

Screenshot 2022-01-18 3.25.57 PM.png


So is "tip the valves" and "grind the vales and valves seats" a similar action in the FSM?

I'm curious even though it doesn't apply to me as I commissioned a new OEM long block where none of this applies. Thanks for any correction!
 

flintknapper

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Grinding valve seats, and valves is factored into Toyota's design. This is why the factory service manual provides guidance on how to grind the valves and valve seats.

If you are taking the engine down for a major overhaul (200k+) and you don't grind the valve seats and valves you aren't fully rebuilding the engine.

Yes, but it will require moving/purchasing shims if any significant amount of material is removed.

IF the head is straight, the valves and valve seats are not burned/pitted then you can LIGHTLY lap the valves, reassemble and be good to go for awhile.

IF the head is shaved, the valve seats cut and valves ground then you will assuredly need to address the valve lengths. Easiest thing to do it to 'tip' the valve stems (rather than jockey shims), provided you don't go through the hardened portion.
 

flintknapper

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View attachment 2898097

So is "tip the valves" and "grind the vales and valves seats" a similar action in the FSM?

I'm curious even though it doesn't apply to me as I commissioned a new OEM long block where none of this applies. Thanks for any correction!

It is fine to 'tip' the valves provided you don't go TOO FAR (through the hardened portion). This what nearly all machine shops will do. (Combine moving shims and tipping the valves) to achieve proper clearances and maintain the thickest hardening.
 

COYS

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It is fine to 'tip' the valves provided you don't go TOO FAR (through the hardened portion). This what nearly all machine shops will do. (Combine moving shims and tipping the valves) to achieve proper clearances and maintain the thickest hardening.
So does the FSM recommend tipping/grinding valves as the go to option or would better practice be to leave the valves alone and source new shims?
 

Ozark Bushwalker

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So does the FSM recommend tipping/grinding valves as the go to option or would better practice be to leave the valves alone and source new shims?
Don’t take it from me but you can buy OEM “valve grind” rebuild kits, so I’d assume it’s a sound method if your clearances are off enough to make it necessary.
 
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The gasket for the thermostat is like a split o-ring that fits around the edge of the thermostat. Also check for scratches or gouges in the housing around the thermostat.
 

COYS

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Don’t take it from me but you can buy OEM “valve grind” rebuild kits, so I’d assume it’s a sound method if your clearances are off enough to make it necessary.
So bottom-line, you can tip or grind valves to get in spec per the FSM or avoid it all together by building the head with new OEM parts which include new valves and appropriately sized shims to spec.

I'm guessing by the time I need to crack mine open, even the Toyota heritage program will have NLA'ed all 1FZ-FE parts, which means that valve grind rebuild kit might be worth squirreling away. 👴🏼

Screenshot 2022-01-18 4.53.57 PM.png


Thanks, again, for the knowledge transfer!
 
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flintknapper

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So does the FSM recommend tipping/grinding valves as the go to option or would better practice be to leave the valves alone and source new shims?

'Best' method to achieve proper clearances is always to 'shim' where possible. This preserves all of the hardening depth at the end of the valve stem. It can be labor intensive and will probably result in having to purchase a few shims (after moving certain others)...but it is the best method.

Unless requested....most machine shops will not do this. They will find the closet shim per bucket and then 'tip' (grind the valve stem tip) the rest of the way to make up the difference (typically only a few thousandths).
 

alia176

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Gotcha 👍
 
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Coolant leak is fixed. What do you all suggest I do when trying solve the high oil pressure? I ran the engine for about 20 minutes today. Oil pressure stayed high the entire time. Check engine light came on 😩. Did not read the code yet.

E56E1C8A-E3A0-4513-A48F-9FDBF78A459F.jpeg
 

flintknapper

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Coolant leak is fixed. What do you all suggest I do when trying solve the high oil pressure? I ran the engine for about 20 minutes today. Oil pressure stayed high the entire time. Check engine light came on 😩. Did not read the code yet.

View attachment 2901591

Put a mechanical gauge on it so you can see what the ACTUAL Oil Pressure is and go from there.
 

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