Head Gasket Checklist, things to consider replacing as long as I am in there. (2 Viewers)

[Red Merle]

I have to replace my head gasket now. I think I saved the motor by having it towed back to my house after it blew on the way to a friends house that was only a few miles from where I started before it blew. The truck still runs and drives, but I am only planning on starting it two more times to arrange my shop and get the truck in a good position in my garage.

So I am looking for advice for what people people recommend doing when they do the HG. I plan on installing a new alternator, a new water pump and all of the little gaskets and seals that come with the Toyota HG kit. I am also looking at doing the Main Front Seal that is described in the attached video. I am also planning on replacing some, if not all of the hoses, especially the PHH(I already ordered that and had planned on installing it this past weekend and then the HG blew)

I am on the fence about changing the studs that hold the head in place and I am also looking for guidance as far as what to have done to the head when I send it out for a refresh.

I realize that there are a number of threads on this topic, but I didn't find a comprehensive thread that covered all of these questions.

 

[tominboise]

Why install a new alternator? I installed new brushes in mine when I had it out. Didn't really need them but why not. Bearings were fine. My has 165k on it.

Send the injectors out for rebuild while you have it apart. Replace the fuel filter and all the accessory drive belts. Remove and clean the oil cooler. Replace all vacuum lines while you have it apart and can get to them.

 

[Red Merle]

I already ordered a new alternator last week because I thought it might be contributing to an electrical issue I was having. I figure I already have it, so why not just install it?

Good idea about the fuel filter, vacuum lines and the belts, I will add those to my list.

Anything else?

 

[Hornd]

There are about a million things you can do while your in there:

Would run Water Pump till failure. Some have lasted 400K if cooling system kept up.

Would test alternator before just replacing, but doing brushes smart

Plan on Cleaning intake passages?

Elminate EGR Pipe or Tape Wire Harness?

Coolant Bypass Valve on Firewall Good?

Tune-Up?

PCV, PCV Hose, and Grommet?

I'd loosen Harmonic Balancer before doing anything else as you can use Motor to break it free to do Oil Pump Seal and Crank Seal.
Dizzy O-Ring a No Brainer

Need a coolant flush? Nows the time.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Head needs a valve job at a minimum.

Would also suggest replacing your head studs as oem studs are a 'torque to yield' design. You can check them per the fan but why bother leaving a ? Mark under your hood?

You will need new exhaust studs as well.

 

[Red Merle]

There are some odd sounds that I think are coming from the water pump. Maybe a bearing? I am just thinking for ease of installation that it might be worth it. I listened through a mechanics stethoscope and it does seem a little grindy and groany.

Maybe I will just return the alternator, but again, just thinking that since it's easier to get to now, I may just toss the new one in. I will take a closer look when I remove it. It does appear to test OK though.

What is the deal with eliminating the EGR pipe? I see people that say they did that, but I don't want to cause other issues down the road and I think mine works as I don't get any CEL's. What is the advantage there? What is the Tape Wire Harness?

How do you check the Coolant Bypass Valve?

I will add PCV, PCV Hose and the Grommet to my list.

I am not sure of the condition of the cooling system, I did just blow the HG after all. I know the PO put in a new radiator last year and I think the coolant is fine, but I was planning on flushing that and replacing it all anyway as part of this job.

 

[Red Merle]

So what are people's thoughts on eliminating the EGR system?

 

[SmokingRocks]

meh, I wrapped my EGR pipe with Lava rock heat wrap. Also wrapped my harness with reflective heat tape.

I have emissions here so deleting the EGR isn't even an option.

 

[Red Merle]

meh, I wrapped my EGR pipe with Lava rock heat wrap. Also wrapped my harness with reflective heat tape.

I have emissions here so deleting the EGR isn't even an option.

I think this is the route I want to take. I don't want things to melt and cause another HG issue, but removing it altogether just seems like asking for trouble down the road. We don't test where I live now, but if I can ever get this thing to the point where it is mostly reliable, I would like to keep it for a long time. I can't say for sure that I am never going to move or that my area won't start testing at some point.

 

[Hornd]

I think this is the route I want to take. I don't want things to melt and cause another HG issue, but removing it altogether just seems like asking for trouble down the road. We don't test where I live now, but if I can ever get this thing to the point where it is mostly reliable, I would like to keep it for a long time. I can't say for sure that I am never going to move or that my area won't start testing at some point.

Let us know where the Head Gasket Failed.
I'm putting my $ on #6 Cylinder.
Which cylinder does the EGR Dump into?

 

[pengfinn]

Let us know where the Head Gasket Failed.
I'm putting my $ on #6 Cylinder.
Which cylinder does the EGR Dump into?

I'm fairly certain #6, or was that rhetorical?

 

[Hornd]

I'm fairly certain #6, or was that rhetorical?

Correlation does not imply Causation.

I know the head gasket is redesigned in that area.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Mine and plenty others have failed at Cyl 1

 

[wagonteeth]

Tagging because I'm in the middle of same.

If you haven' replaced it, the low pressure hose to power steering is a common leak, and you'll have to unbolt the reservoir anyway.

Check the timing chain tension/dampener for wear. New thermostat.

On the water pump, my original feels good, but Rock Auto has an Aisin for $58, so it's a cheap throw on to do whilst things are apart.

 

[Red Merle]

So, this may be a dumb question, but if I am planning having the head touched up a machine shop, should I reinstall the cams before I take it in? I feel like the FSM is a little hazy in this part of the job. They go from removing the cams, right to disassembling the valves and all of the shims. Do I need to do all of that if I am taking the head in? It seems like the machine shop would want to do that so that they can put it all back together correctly. I am confused because in jcardona1's HG thread, he has a pic of the whole head, including the cams installed before he put it back in. So what am I missing here?

 

[chap79]

Cams have to be removed to install the head back on the block. I would take the head with valves and buckets to the machine shop to have it surfaced...if you are having them do the valve job. They don't need the cam shafts for anything.

 

[Red Merle]

Tagging because I'm in the middle of same.

If you haven' replaced it, the low pressure hose to power steering is a common leak, and you'll have to unbolt the reservoir anyway.

Check the timing chain tension/dampener for wear. New thermostat.

On the water pump, my original feels good, but Rock Auto has an Aisin for $58, so it's a cheap throw on to do whilst things are apart.

For $58, I am going to replace the water pump(is the OEM pump an Aisin?) . Part of my thought process here is that I am normally about a mechanic and if I can spend a little money now to avoid having to dig back in the near, medium or distant future, it's well worth it to me. I enjoy maintaining things, but not enough to have the desire to keep ripping the truck apart every few months.

I will have to check the records that the PO left me, but I am pretty sure there was a hose replaced for the power steering mechanism. I'll have to take a closer look at that.

 

[Red Merle]

Cams have to be removed to install the head back on the block. I would take the head with valves and buckets to the machine shop to have it surfaced...if you are having them do the valve job. They don't need the cam shafts for anything.

This is what I needed to clarify. I am just going to lift the cams out and leave the buckets the way I found them if that is acceptable. I will just haul the thing over to the machine shop with them intact. Should I label the shims and take them out, or is leaving them in normal?

 

[OGBeno]

Bring everything associated with the head to the machine shop.

Bring the camshafts as well.

Don't dick around with this. Assume ignorance on the part of the machine shop.

 

[Red Merle]

Bring everything associated with the head to the machine shop.

Bring the camshaft as well.

Don't dick around with this. Assume ignorance on the part of the machine shop.

This was my initial instinct. I am new to this and appreciate your input. I can't see why it would hurt for them to have it all, as long as they don't lose any of it