- Thread starter
- #61
Crank bolt secured. Thanks SBman. 300+ lb/ft. torque!
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Head Gasket and "While You're in There" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mighty690
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Before putting on the valve cover I rechecked valve clearances. Smack in the middle of the spec. It really impresses me how the 1FZ engine maintains its valve tolerances for hundreds of thousands of miles.
New timing chain tensioner.
New timing chain tensioner.
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- #63
New spark plug tube seals were pressed in just before this shot.
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- #64
New exhaust manifold studs and nuts.
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- #65
Got back to wrenching yesterday. Cleaning up parts before reinstalling is a slow thing. Perhaps I should have planned this better and had a big parts cleaning day or two.
Cleaning up the heater pipe I had to share an image of the PHH that came off of there. It's quite a pleasant job to replace it out of the vehicle!
Cleaning up the heater pipe I had to share an image of the PHH that came off of there. It's quite a pleasant job to replace it out of the vehicle!
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I discovered it is better to clean parts as the come off and bag them clean. Makes it SOOOO much nicer when putting back together, seems to me you can focus more on the task at hand vs making it clean.
Nice progress, it will be so nice when it is back and purring like a kitten! Also spent about half a day in the engine compartment cleaning it as best I could. You will never have this kind of access again. Working on it in the future will be much nicer as well, if you should have to.
If you haven't yet, replace all seals on the firewall that you can now, such as the steering shaft boot.
Nice progress, it will be so nice when it is back and purring like a kitten! Also spent about half a day in the engine compartment cleaning it as best I could. You will never have this kind of access again. Working on it in the future will be much nicer as well, if you should have to.
If you haven't yet, replace all seals on the firewall that you can now, such as the steering shaft boot.
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- #67
All vacuum lines replaced. Serviced injector installed. Make sure to route the wiring harness before installing fuel rail. In other words, follow the FSM carefully. There's the new PHH too.
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- #68
How to:
When you pull your harness from the injectors you are libel to crack the locking clips when you release them. It can be unavoidable.
But, you can replace the housings. I bought all six to just get 'er done fresh. Here's how you replace them. I'm sure there's a better tool than this Harbor Freight dental tool, but it works.
When you pull your harness from the injectors you are libel to crack the locking clips when you release them. It can be unavoidable.
But, you can replace the housings. I bought all six to just get 'er done fresh. Here's how you replace them. I'm sure there's a better tool than this Harbor Freight dental tool, but it works.
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- Thread starter
- #69
Progress.
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- #70
The OEM wrap around the harness at #6 cylinder was shot so I rewrapped it with some insulating tape. Had some left over to go a little overboard.
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- #71
My son and I got that beast reinserted. Luckily my wife and daughters dropped by too!
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Why didn't you deck the block? It looks like the gasket cooked the surface similar to mine. I also had a failure on cylinder 1 at the same coolant passage. My block showed similar pitting as yours.
My local experts said I could slap another gasket in there but there would be no guarantee on how long it would last.
My local experts said I could slap another gasket in there but there would be no guarantee on how long it would last.
- Thread starter
- #73
A couple of Toyota LC pros are involved with this project. The deck was in good shape. I don't know about the pitting you're referring to. This is the second 1FZ-FE HG I've done so I had that one to compare this block with. All of us have to decide how far to go on a job like this ($$$), and as you can see here I left the 150,000 mile bottom end alone.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Sure I understand, don't take my post wrong I was just curious. At this point I'm opting for more down time (equating to more money available) to do everything that way I don't have to do this again in 20,000 mi.
This was my block
You can see the pitting around the coolant passages and the fire ring especially on the exhaust side.
The block should polish to a sheen like this or it has pitting.
I have appreciated reading through your thread however, you are doing a very detailed job. Keep it up!
This was my block
You can see the pitting around the coolant passages and the fire ring especially on the exhaust side.
The block should polish to a sheen like this or it has pitting.
I have appreciated reading through your thread however, you are doing a very detailed job. Keep it up!
Amazing write up. Also amazing how complex it is. Mine is at 312,xxx miles and I'm wondering how much longer it will go before I'll need the same. I've been thinking about maybe a head pull and rebuild as the valve guides are/must be leaking a bit although oil usage is still low (! qt every 1500 miles or so) and oil pressure is still high.
Thanks for the great write up and pics.
Ned
Thanks for the great write up and pics.
Ned
- Thread starter
- #76
Simply valve stem seals would probably take care of that oil issue, but once "you're in there" it's going to keep going. Where to stop is one of the toughest decisions to make. I'm an advocate of not reusing head bolts, for example, but that gets costly all by itself. My $0.02: keep running her. Have lots of fun too.
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- Thread starter
- #77
Dipstick tube. You see the o-ring and the seal above it. I wasn't able to get the upper seal in a timely manner, but since my oil pans had been hot-tanked and were very clean, I took a toothbrush and soap and cleaned the bottom end of this assembly really well. I carefully and sparingly applied Toyota FIPG to the upper seal and reinstalled with a fresh o-ring. I think it was an effective way to handle this.
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- #78
The black hub fan clutch felt good but I went ahead and drained it and refilled with 10K fluid. The interior of it looks a little different from the blue hub on my other 80.
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- #79
Okay, I've been busy lately on the rest of my life. But here's a couple shots. Gotta get the tranny linkage hooked back up, intake, fluids and radiator. It's getting close!
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- #80
Got back on it today. OEM cap and rotor, but Rockauto Denso ignition wires. The wires I removed were OEM but 1998. Probably still perfectly good.
