head gasket advice

gillti

 
Joined
Aug 11, 2004
Messages
239
Location
So Cal
So, I have finally got the head off. Not as big a deal as I expected (however, haven't tried to put it back together yet!

below are some pics, I notice some corrosion around #6, wanted some opinions on if this is what would have caused my problems.

any thoughts or advice?

thanks

Update:
update: got my head checked out by a machine guy (opened the trunk and he immediately said "landcruiser, those SOB's are heavy) However, this gave me a great deal of hope. He checked it out and there was considerable inconsistancies in the head. He cut it (not grinded) and it's smooth now. Gonna put the head back on, need only the heat shields (risers?) as mine were cracked and broken when I took apart the manifolds.

Questions: can you put the manifolds on before you install the head? (Oh yeah, did get the FSM's) jus tthought I'd check here to see if there was a trick.

Mudrak has given me some great advice--thanks for your time on the phone!

Other question: can someone explain to me what the heat sheild does? and do I double gasket the manifolds. on the SOR site I swear they had one above the heat riser and one below. But when I took off the manifolds I only had a couple of broken gaskets (actually, just checked my pics and below is what I had- I would love some help here!

thanks once again!
DSC05851.jpg
DSC05809.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 5, 2005
Messages
85
Location
Nebraska
OK now this may sound real dumb but I am real new to the toy side of life. Why arn't the those circles round?
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2005
Messages
270
Location
Austin, TX
corrosion is caused by water(coolant, moisture in air). cant tell whether or not to be concerned(probably not). head gasket looks good.

why did you pull the head?




the shape is oval like to fit the shape of the combustion chamber.
pull one apart and you will understand.

also, it is not a hemi, which would look like an "O"
 

60wag

SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
1,929
Location
Boulder, CO
In the secind pic, there appear to be some carbon tracks around 4 or 5 o'clock. Look closely at that spot to see if the carbon goes all the way to the water passage. If so, that's the leak. There's also a pretty good ding in the armor on cyl #6 at 6 o'clock. Was that from disassembly or not?

The out of round openings for the cyls are for valve clearance. When the valves open, they drop into the notched out areas. If it was possible to make the gasket with round openings, they would. Its much easier.

When you are putting the engine back together, make sure the gasket is righ side up. It will fit upside down and the oval shaped oil passage will be in the wrong place resulting in no oil to the rockers. Also, while the head is off, look up "oil galley plug." If it hasn't been done yet, you might as well do it when the head is off.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2005
Messages
85
Location
Nebraska
Cool thanks for the info just something I did not know. I thought all of the head gaskets were circle cylanders. guess not.
 

gillti

 
Joined
Aug 11, 2004
Messages
239
Location
So Cal
nope, not from dissassembly I don't think. The ding was there, and since there definetly was a leak, I'm hoping that was it.

Pulled it because I lost power completely and head it checked and that's what they told me.

Thanks for the tip on oil galley plug, will check it out.
 

60wag

SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
1,929
Location
Boulder, CO
Between the manifolds is a diverter plate. There is a gasket on both sides of it. The gaskets are made from two layers of paper and a perforated metal core. If the old was were falling apart, it may have looked like two gaskets. When you bolt the manifolds together, either put the engine flange surfaces on a flat plate, or leave the bolts loose until they are bolted to the head to assure that they are line up properly. You could bolt the maniflds to the head before installing the head, but that makes it a bit harder to line everything up when seating the head. It does make the rear exhaust manifold bolt easier to ge to.
 
Joined
Nov 22, 2004
Messages
139
I recently replaced my head gasket and my intake was cracked also added one of those Heat Shields, got mine from CCOT. This stainless steel piece of metal and put new gaskets on both sides. I wouldn't put the manifolds on before installing the head, head is heavy enough w/o them and you want to try and install straight so you don't have to slide it around too much to line up.
 

gillti

 
Joined
Aug 11, 2004
Messages
239
Location
So Cal
Thanks green, that's what I was thinking too. Now, I guess I had the diverter plate, do I need a heat shield as well?
 
Joined
Nov 22, 2004
Messages
139
I felt that it was good insurance since I just got through replacing a cracked intake. The nice thing is that it is flat (the pieces of the plate I took out which was probably the diverter plate was pretty well eaten away). Since it's flat, it prettymuch holds the flapper valve completely closed ensuring the hot exhaust is kept off the bottom of the intake. Doesn't appear to effect cold starting at all.
 

gillti

 
Joined
Aug 11, 2004
Messages
239
Location
So Cal
not too worried about cold starting here in So Cal. So, just so i understand, rather than it being that piece of metal, it is a complete metal plate that goes over it? interesting.
 
Top Bottom