head gasket advice

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by gillti, Oct 31, 2005.

  1. gillti

    gillti

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    So, I have finally got the head off. Not as big a deal as I expected (however, haven't tried to put it back together yet!

    below are some pics, I notice some corrosion around #6, wanted some opinions on if this is what would have caused my problems.

    any thoughts or advice?

    thanks

    Update:
    update: got my head checked out by a machine guy (opened the trunk and he immediately said "landcruiser, those SOB's are heavy) However, this gave me a great deal of hope. He checked it out and there was considerable inconsistancies in the head. He cut it (not grinded) and it's smooth now. Gonna put the head back on, need only the heat shields (risers?) as mine were cracked and broken when I took apart the manifolds.

    Questions: can you put the manifolds on before you install the head? (Oh yeah, did get the FSM's) jus tthought I'd check here to see if there was a trick.

    Mudrak has given me some great advice--thanks for your time on the phone!

    Other question: can someone explain to me what the heat sheild does? and do I double gasket the manifolds. on the SOR site I swear they had one above the heat riser and one below. But when I took off the manifolds I only had a couple of broken gaskets (actually, just checked my pics and below is what I had- I would love some help here!

    thanks once again!
    DSC05851.jpg DSC05809.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2005
  2. gillti

    gillti

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    Any one with pics of their spent gasket?
     
  3. Bradley

    Bradley

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    OK now this may sound real dumb but I am real new to the toy side of life. Why arn't the those circles round?
     
  4. YODA 88 62

    YODA 88 62

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    corrosion is caused by water(coolant, moisture in air). cant tell whether or not to be concerned(probably not). head gasket looks good.

    why did you pull the head?




    the shape is oval like to fit the shape of the combustion chamber.
    pull one apart and you will understand.

    also, it is not a hemi, which would look like an "O"
     
  5. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

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    In the secind pic, there appear to be some carbon tracks around 4 or 5 o'clock. Look closely at that spot to see if the carbon goes all the way to the water passage. If so, that's the leak. There's also a pretty good ding in the armor on cyl #6 at 6 o'clock. Was that from disassembly or not?

    The out of round openings for the cyls are for valve clearance. When the valves open, they drop into the notched out areas. If it was possible to make the gasket with round openings, they would. Its much easier.

    When you are putting the engine back together, make sure the gasket is righ side up. It will fit upside down and the oval shaped oil passage will be in the wrong place resulting in no oil to the rockers. Also, while the head is off, look up "oil galley plug." If it hasn't been done yet, you might as well do it when the head is off.
     
  6. Bradley

    Bradley

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    Cool thanks for the info just something I did not know. I thought all of the head gaskets were circle cylanders. guess not.
     
  7. gillti

    gillti

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    nope, not from dissassembly I don't think. The ding was there, and since there definetly was a leak, I'm hoping that was it.

    Pulled it because I lost power completely and head it checked and that's what they told me.

    Thanks for the tip on oil galley plug, will check it out.
     
  8. gillti

    gillti

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    bump for update
     
  9. dallen341

    dallen341

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    where in so cal are you located? If local, I may be able to take a look and offer an opinion if you like.

    Don
     
  10. gillti

    gillti

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    Loma Linda to be exact. Where are you?
     
  11. dallen341

    dallen341

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    Claremont. Loma Linda is the wrong direction for everywhere I go. I was hoping you might be "on the way" local.

    Don
     
  12. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

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    Between the manifolds is a diverter plate. There is a gasket on both sides of it. The gaskets are made from two layers of paper and a perforated metal core. If the old was were falling apart, it may have looked like two gaskets. When you bolt the manifolds together, either put the engine flange surfaces on a flat plate, or leave the bolts loose until they are bolted to the head to assure that they are line up properly. You could bolt the maniflds to the head before installing the head, but that makes it a bit harder to line everything up when seating the head. It does make the rear exhaust manifold bolt easier to ge to.
     
  13. GreenFJ40

    GreenFJ40

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    I recently replaced my head gasket and my intake was cracked also added one of those Heat Shields, got mine from CCOT. This stainless steel piece of metal and put new gaskets on both sides. I wouldn't put the manifolds on before installing the head, head is heavy enough w/o them and you want to try and install straight so you don't have to slide it around too much to line up.
     
  14. gillti

    gillti

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    Thanks green, that's what I was thinking too. Now, I guess I had the diverter plate, do I need a heat shield as well?
     
  15. GreenFJ40

    GreenFJ40

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    I felt that it was good insurance since I just got through replacing a cracked intake. The nice thing is that it is flat (the pieces of the plate I took out which was probably the diverter plate was pretty well eaten away). Since it's flat, it prettymuch holds the flapper valve completely closed ensuring the hot exhaust is kept off the bottom of the intake. Doesn't appear to effect cold starting at all.
     
  16. gillti

    gillti

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    not too worried about cold starting here in So Cal. So, just so i understand, rather than it being that piece of metal, it is a complete metal plate that goes over it? interesting.
     
  17. GreenFJ40

    GreenFJ40

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