Head bolt removal (2 Viewers)

[middlecalf]

I’ve seen several/numerous/many pics of builds/mods where the two bolts that hold the air cleaner assembly on the head are removed so the assembly can, well, be removed . So if that was the case with my F135 motor, purely hypothetical of course , what’s the process to reinstall these bolts? Do you go through the normal FSM torque sequence through all the bolts until the max torque has been applied to every bolt, or just torque those two back down?

And, in this hypothetical scenario , what if some issues like some oil burning or milkshake in the fill tube showed up (haven’t checked under the valve cover yet, hypothetically), do you think the bolt removal might be a contributing factor, and retourqing might help, hypothetically of course?

If it might help, hypothetically, is the only way to torque the #1 bolt under the rocker arm assembly to remove the assembly, or is there a torque wrench made for that situation (metric crow foot)? Hypothetically .

 

[brian]

just torqueing those two back down seems to be the answer.

 

[middlecalf]

So those are bolts 11 and 13 per the FSM sequence, and given #12 is at the other end of the head I guess I can just torque them up to spec with the assumption everything else is still fully torqued? (I have no history on this motor)

(theoretically )

 

[brian]

So those are bolts 11 and 13 per the FSM sequence, and given #12 is at the other end of the head I guess I can just torque them up to spec with the assumption everything else is still fully torqued? (I have no history on this motor)

(theoretically )

yes. ive played this game as well....and all seems well after a few years now.

 

[pjohnson]

So those are bolts 11 and 13 per the FSM sequence, and given #12 is at the other end of the head I guess I can just torque them up to spec with the assumption everything else is still fully torqued? (I have no history on this motor)

(theoretically )

When I mounted a PS bracket that required removing those two bolts, I did it with the engine dead cold, torqued those two bolts, warmed up the engine and retorqued all the head bolts.

YMMV

 

[deliverance]

I did this exact thing two weeks ago… no problems so far.

 

[Shark56]

Since this is a new to you motor it wouldn't hurt to check the torque on all the head bolts.

 

[78Landcruiser]

I have also done the same with success ,, but would recommend draining off the coolant below the level of the head ,, and a full re torque of all the head bolts after a heat soak,, but that's just me,, good luck!

 

[pjohnson]

...but would recommend draining off the coolant below the level of the head...

I forgot about this step. Absolutely do this.

 

[middlecalf]

So which valve lash adjustment values do you guys use (whether running or not):

Toyota F-engine Repair Manual

Unknown (maybe Haynes?)

( who’s holding the screw driver in the first pic?)

 

[pjohnson]

I always pick the FSM if I have a choice.

 

[78Landcruiser]

10-14 is F and 1.5 F

8-14 is 2F and 3F

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

14-14


Delta cam spec.

 

[sggoat]

I’ve seen several/numerous/many pics of builds/mods where the two bolts that hold the air cleaner assembly on the head are removed so the assembly can, well, be removed . So if that was the case with my F135 motor, purely hypothetical of course , what’s the process to reinstall these bolts? Do you go through the normal FSM torque sequence through all the bolts until the max torque has been applied to every bolt, or just torque those two back down?

And, in this hypothetical scenario , what if some issues like some oil burning or milkshake in the fill tube showed up (haven’t checked under the valve cover yet, hypothetically), do you think the bolt removal might be a contributing factor, and retourqing might help, hypothetically of course?

If it might help, hypothetically, is the only way to torque the #1 bolt under the rocker arm assembly to remove the assembly, or is there a torque wrench made for that situation (metric crow foot)? Hypothetically .

Would also like to know if there is a way to torque the "under-rocker" bolt without removing the arm assy--seems there has to be a way-a 'crow-foot' (since it is open ended), would not seem to be the way to go--but a box-end attachment added to a std torque wrench with some sort of 'torque de-multiplier' has to be around some where--or at least a way to calculate the right torque----Bet GA Architect could figure this one out---