HDJ81 Wheel Bearing Help Urgently Needed! (1 Viewer)

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So forgive me if I break nettiquette and post this also on this forum (I posted also in the 80 series forum), as I don't know where is the best place to put this.

Yesterday my front driver side wheel bearing exploded with lost of screeching sounds and some worrisome pulls from the wheel, but I managed to get home nevertheless at low speed.

When I got to it this morning I realized how bad it was, there are no rollers inside the external bearing and the race is halfway worn out and the rollers are in bits inside where the grease accumulates.

I desperately need information on where to get the bearings ASAP as this is my daily driver and I've got lots of work that I can't postpone.

So does anyone know where to get these bearings and their specs? I could then start making phone calls...

Any help would be appreciated. Mods, I will trust your judgment if you feel this must go only in one forum.

***

So it would sem the bearings I need are 90368-49084 and 90368-45087 and seem common with the US 80 series... Does anyone know where to get some in the Montreal area?
Thanks in advance!


***


Found 2 outside bearings... Parts guy didn't ask me the model... Looks like it's for all Landcruisers... Ordered 2... wil get back with more info as it develops! Any tips on removing the old bearings?
 
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Inner: 90368-49084
Outer: 90368-45087

You could call 4WheelAuto in Edmonton (866) 468-2570. They could possibly overnight you the bearings. Or go to your local Toyota dealer. The bearings will be the same as on a NA Cruiser or Lexus LX450.
 
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So I got the bearings and have the inner ones and seals on order, although after a second look the inner bearing is still fine. And surprisingly, the spindle is still in great shape, but the inner adjusting nut is completely stripped, I was able to pull it out once I drilled and tapped a couple screws into it, pushing onto the flange washer. I also need a new lock tab washer, the rest appears to be in great shape, I think I caught it in time :)

Do you guys have a trick for installing the new inner race without pounding it into place? Removing the old one was a bear!
 
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Since I haven't done that in decades and remember being told pounding it in was a no no, do you think it's OK to do it this way? I'm thinking putting the wheel in the oven and the race in the freezer... Whadya think?
 
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I have installed them that way for over 20 years with zero problems..the right brass drift or similar will help as will tapping them in at 90 degree intervals around the race, so it seats evenly.
Sometimes I will leave the hub out in the sun for a while so its fairly hot before seating the new race..but I don't bother with putting races into the freezer personally.
Ymmv
 
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So I put the wheel in the oven for about 20 minutes, the new in the freezer and listened Mr Cimarron, split the old race using not my grinder and used that to pound the new race in. Easy as pie! Next step, let it cool off, get some work out for my clients then back outside. I figure that I should be OK for a few days with a single nut, I'll use the worn out one other one as a spacer...
 
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I also wish to thank you all, you've made a big difference helping me get back on the road :D as here in the boonies, a man without wheels is a man without an income...

Glad it worked out.

Since I have a stable of Land Cruisers (and all with FF rear axles--for just this reason) I keep a spare set of wheel bearings (or four) at all times. Really you need to keep the inner and outer bearings and wheel dust shield on hand for this job--but I keep adjusting/lock nuts and tabs on hand too.

Dan
 
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Thanks, Man! I'm getting the rear bearing and seals Monday, and am lucky enough to have been driven to both jobsites for the first one by the client himself (he came to pick me up!) and by a good friend of mine the next day, and weather permitting I'll be doing both wheels Tuesday. I just need to get a few of these adjusting nuts and locking tabs and I'll be fine. Truck is running great otherwise, except for that wobble I got on one wheel the day I drove over a manhole with no cover on! (remember the rash of manhole cover theft a few years ago?)...

As for spare parts... I am a man of spartan means and only have one vehicle, but I have a 'stable' of Saeco Aroma Espresso machines and am never without a functional one and have over the years placed one at every place I was invited to sleep over, to be sure to have great coffee in the morning :) So on top of the three I run at home there's one at my mother's , sister's, daughter's and niece, even my ex and her sister have a one ;). There is nothing I have not worked on on these machines and I love them because they're tough as nails, just like Landcruisers :D
 
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Well, it seems even Toyota Saint-Jérome doesn't have the friggin adjusting nuts in stock (nor do they have any bearings, which they sell for OVER the toyodiy price list)... "Special Order"... Boy I wish I was back in Maine dealing with Prime Toyota! Not only do they have great prices but most of the stuff that's 'special order' here is in stock there... Why do I even keep trying!!!

So, does anyone know of an address in the Montreal area where I would have better luck finding 54mm bearing adjusting spindle nuts?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

Squash

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Should be the same parts as many Toyota trucks of similar years, from 4runners, T100, Lexus 450 and 470
Toyota Part Number: 90215-42025
WASHER, LOCK
This genuine part is manufactured and warranty covered by Toyota.
Your Price:
$2.00
Retail Price:
$2.73
You Save:
$0.73
Qty:


Check if this part fits your vehicle, click here.
This part fits the listed vehicles and their options:
ModelYearTrimEngineImportant vehicle option details
4Runner1984-1995DLX, SDT, SR5, SR5 Turbo, STD4 Cyl 2.4L, 4 Cyl 2.4L Diesel, 4 Cyl 2.4L Gas, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.0L Gas22R, 22RE, 22REC, 22RTEC, 2L, 2LT, 3VZE; LN65, LN66, RN101, RN106, RN110, RN120, RN121, RN130, RN131, RN60, RN61, RN65, RN66, VZN100, VZN105, VZN110, VZN120, VZN130, VZN131, VZN61, VZN66
Land Cruiser1975-20076 Cyl 3.0L Diesel, 6 Cyl 3.4L Diesel, 6 Cyl 4.0L, 6 Cyl 4.0L Diesel, 6 Cyl 4.2L Gas, 8 Cyl 4.5L, 8 Cyl 4.7L1FZFE, 2F, 2H, 2UZFE, 3B, 3FE, B; BJ40, BJ42, BJ60, BJ70, FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60, FJ62, FJ80, FZJ80, HJ60, UZJ100
T1001993-1998DLX, SR5, STD6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.4L3VZE, 5VZFE; VCK20, VCK21
Truck, Pickup1979-1995DLX, SDT, SR5, SR5 Turbo, STD4 Cyl 2.2L Gas, 4 Cyl 2.4L, 4 Cyl 2.4L Diesel, 4 Cyl 2.4L Gas, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.0L Gas20R, 22R, 22RE, 22REC, 22RTEC, 2L, 2LT, 3VZE; LN65, LN66, RN101, RN106, RN110, RN120, RN121, RN130, RN131, RN37, RN38, RN47, RN48, RN60, RN61, RN65, RN66, VZN100, VZN105, VZN110, VZN120, VZN130, VZN131, VZN61, VZN66
Van1986-1989STD4 Cyl 2.2L4YEC; YR32
 
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I know and that's why it angers me so much, how is it possible that it's nowhere in stock?!

As for the link: nice, but they don't even ship outside the US so forget about it, I don't even want to think about shipping, knowing full well that this $2 would probably cost $20 to ship...

Excuse me for being angry... But I just need to vent... I called all the dealers around and several parts places, even two scrappers with no luck. The cheapest nut is $14 and is "special order"... I'd have to cancel my next two jobs waiting for the part to be delivered to the closest dealer 45 km away...

Whenever I have to deal with the local Toyota Mafia I'm always being sorely reminded of what I was told the last time I went to one of these places for parts, and that was 15 year ago: "Toyota Canada has determined that Landcruiser owners earn more than 6 figures a year and prices its parts accordingly"... No, seriously, he had the gall to say it to my face before he closed the counter for his Friday afternoon off!!!

But I digress... All you guys know as well as I do that we are held hostage in this country price wise when it comes to auto parts... If at least the parts were in stock I would understand the premium to pay for availability, but paying a premium and having to wait is just too much for a frigging nut. I sure wish I owned a lathe like the old garage guys used to have, I'd have solved my problem in a jiffy...
 
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Nope... done them all, next is Montreal/Laval area, 80 km away... Tomorrow morning I'll order the frigging nut at Toyota Saint-Jérôme for Wednesday pickup and use the single nut for now and install the new tab washer and second nut right there in their yard ;)

I've cleaned out the spindle and I was lucky just as I was with my ACSD break a couple of years ago (could have killed the injection pump but I caught it just in time, same here). Seriously, I could have been killed, there wasn't much holding the wheel. The spindle has slight scuff marks but no overheating and the threads are clean enough that after a thorough picking of the metal shavings filling them I was able to thread the good outer nut all the way. The inner nut sacrificed itself to protect the spindle...

The thrust washer was really scary to look at, I need a new one pronto as well. I'm not sure it would have survived another 100km. The inner bearing metal race had started wearing itself out, it was already halfway through! A very close call indeed.

I'll take a few pictures and post them up later. I know purists will probably say my spindle is 'toast', in reality it's just slightly scuffed and never overheated and the threads are in more than 85% condition. I'll finish it up with a diamond file to clean out the occasional burr, but it's nothing that prevents proper nut screwing. I've seen much worse in my time!

The bearing and dust seals are in perfect condition, and the half shaft seems to have suffered no damage, there were no metal shavings in between it and the inside of the spindle. I truly got it just in time. Once I get that other nut and thrust washer I should be OK...
 
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You got it right... I still have parts for the old FJ40, thought that perhaps I'd have a wheel bearing nut in there but no such luck... Next step is to build up a store of disks, bearings and brake pads. I'm close to running out of those great dual filters that we pay close to $40 here (paid $10 at Prime Toyota in Maine). I also have to fix a steering box leak... It's not pissing out now that the weather's colder, but still I'd like to fix it. I also have to replace my oil pan before it perforates from rust, replace the timing belt and tensioner.. And many more little things I've been meaning to do but got sidelined by more important ones... ;)
 

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