HDC 100 Owners (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter juane
- Start date
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Not much to say on my build. Buy some 285/75-16 BFG ATs. Several years later, buy Yakima roof rack parts and an awning. A few years later, buy some MetalTech step sliders. Drive it occasionally. Wheel it occasionally - Nothing too crazy. Buy a popup camper and tow it occasionally. Only real problem I have had was an ignition coil going bad. Also, I've developed a driveline or chassis vibration in the last couple of years that become obvious over 65 mph. There are plastic Tees in the heater hoses where the lines go to the rear heater unit. They disintegrate and would definitely need to be replaced asap. I do plan to get a rear bumper with a swing out next. My preferred brand is Bump It Offroad because I think I will keep my OEM receiver hitch for towing and this bumper can accommodate that.
I've had my '99 for almost ten years, I'm at about 130k, bought it with 63k. Here's a rough breakdown of my build issues to date:
I have yet to have any major issues with the truck, and the few issues I have had didn't leave me stranded, as they usually give you a bit of a warning before they go completely out. For example, when the starter starts going out, it;s noticeable before it completely stops working, same with the TPS. For the coil packs, it starts running rough and throws a code with the cylinder that has the issue.
Really, just putting a nice set of 33's and taking off the steps make it a very capable vehicle in all but the 1% of the very specific situations, such as crawling. My build was very slow. The biggest worry for me was always the front diff, the biggest weakness of the 100 series. Take a look at the 100 forum, and even though the 98-99 are the weaker of the series, even Slee recommends locking the front just for the upgraded durability. It is a gas guzzler, if you can live with that,
Repairs and other than planned maintenance:
- 2 Starters
- 90k Service (timing belt, water pump, etc)
- 3 Coil packs ( I now keep spares)
- 1 battery
- Muffler rusted out, replaced with OEM
At purchase: had BFG AT KO's 285/65/16's, otherwise stock, steps removed.
Mods:
- Sliders on after a rough first Snow run in it: Xmas Tree Run
- OME Medium Lift
- ARB Combo bumper
- Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors
- African Outback Roof rack
- Kaymar Rear bumper with tire swingout
- Labrak rear mount antenna mounts
- Kenwood head unit
- LED lighting inside
- LED reverse lights
- ARB Air locker w/ compressor in front
- Trailer Brake Controller
I've yet to do the Heater T that Marc mentioned, it is on my next to do list. I did bust a different water pipe at the back of the block, but that was my fault, I bumped it with the Throttle body when changing the starter.
Any specific questions, just shoot.
I have yet to have any major issues with the truck, and the few issues I have had didn't leave me stranded, as they usually give you a bit of a warning before they go completely out. For example, when the starter starts going out, it;s noticeable before it completely stops working, same with the TPS. For the coil packs, it starts running rough and throws a code with the cylinder that has the issue.
Really, just putting a nice set of 33's and taking off the steps make it a very capable vehicle in all but the 1% of the very specific situations, such as crawling. My build was very slow. The biggest worry for me was always the front diff, the biggest weakness of the 100 series. Take a look at the 100 forum, and even though the 98-99 are the weaker of the series, even Slee recommends locking the front just for the upgraded durability. It is a gas guzzler, if you can live with that,
Repairs and other than planned maintenance:
- 2 Starters
- 90k Service (timing belt, water pump, etc)
- 3 Coil packs ( I now keep spares)
- 1 battery
- Muffler rusted out, replaced with OEM
At purchase: had BFG AT KO's 285/65/16's, otherwise stock, steps removed.
Mods:
- Sliders on after a rough first Snow run in it: Xmas Tree Run
- OME Medium Lift
- ARB Combo bumper
- Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors
- African Outback Roof rack
- Kaymar Rear bumper with tire swingout
- Labrak rear mount antenna mounts
- Kenwood head unit
- LED lighting inside
- LED reverse lights
- ARB Air locker w/ compressor in front
- Trailer Brake Controller
I've yet to do the Heater T that Marc mentioned, it is on my next to do list. I did bust a different water pipe at the back of the block, but that was my fault, I bumped it with the Throttle body when changing the starter.
Any specific questions, just shoot.
Last edited:
Oh, forgot to add, the key shells suck! I break one every 1-1.5 years. I know keep a few spares, as well as carry a plain metal key that is cut, so that I can just tape the broken shell, and keep going. There is a guy on here that is printing a separate fob holder. Also, make sure you have at least a spare master key, because if you lose your master key, or don't have one, it requires a new ecu (but may be deeply discounted/free 1 per vin).
Other 100 owners:
Matt B
Remy
Other 100 owners:
Matt B
Remy
On the key holder topic, I found a source on Ebay that sold key blanks with the fob/shell. You take the key to be cut and then you put the guts from your broken key into the new holder. I don't use the remote/key most of the time. I got a key with the proper chip in it and no buttons that I was able to program to work in the truck and then I don't worry about the key/fobs breaking.
I actually just went through the process of getting a 100 in the past 2 months, so I can try to share my thoughts and we can go from there.
First, finding one - it is damn hard! You need to make craigslist your best friend and search often, or be prepared to shell out big money at a used dealership, likely in another state. I spent 3 weeks searching for mine, and was almost to head to Colorado to buy one there before @Ramathorn15 found a LX470 locally for me before it even went on sale. I worked a deal direct with the owner, and found a nice clean vehicle to start making my own. It seems the LX were not only cheaper, more easy to get as your average person doesn't know they're the exact same as the Toyota. And everybody trusts Toyota trucks, which is why Tacos are so GD expensive.
In picking one, it seems there is a huge variance on price related to mileage and year. Before settling on mine, I drove everything from a $6k 99 with a bazillion miles to a $20k 06 model with low miles. What I found was that, as a daily driver, I really wanted the 5 speed gearbox instead of the 4speed. Its not that its much more powerful or better built, but the engine stays in the power band so much better with the 5spd whereas the 4 speed seemed to always want to search for a gear. This was a big deal as I was buying a daily driver, but if you're looking for a weekend 100 series, a 4spd should suit just fine. The 2UZ engine is not only pretty torque-heavy, it has proven very reliable over the years. This is why if I were you I'd concentrate more on overall vehicle condition and maintenance history than miles. Part of the reason I went with the 100 I have is because it had been serviced since new at every service interval by the dealer (with reciepts), and there was barely a scratch on the entire vehicle. People are still blown away its got over 160k. Also pay attention to when the timing belt was done - that's the one major expensive maintenance item that can get you.
Other general things your'e supposed to worry about on a 100 series. Overall, the list is small. 1) The AHC on the LX models and late LCs can eventually fail. I found one with AHC and it works great. If it fails, I'll put an OME lift and be done with it. There's a way you can quickly evaluate the AHC when test driving to make sure the globes (the expensive bits) are ok. 2) Another thing to be concerned with on the 100 series is the rack and pinions can either loosen up or leak over time. This can be a $1k job. 3) Others have warned about a starter issue, which I think is less a problem on new models? Perhaps I should order a spare now to ensure I'm not stranded. Other than that, things seem pretty bullet proof on the 100.
For mods, basically you can fit 33" tires stock with no lift. Some have fit 34s no lift. Once you want to go to 35s, you will need to replace UCAs, lift, and probably hack at some sheet metal to fit it. I went with 275/70/18s which are metric 33x11 and I've been very happy, no rubbing. I did learn that the newer 100s have 18" wheels which look cool but mean more expensive tires, so do take that into account. I also just finished getting some custom sliders built so I don't fudge up the pretty rocker panels on my next wheeling trip, courtesy of @bomb69tech. With AHC, I've decided to not lift, as I can get body clearance with AHC when I want and still fit 33s, which for me is a good mix of everyday driving and weekend capability.
Next steps for my build are along the same lines as any expedition build - bull bar bumper, winch, roof rack, and rear drawers. We'll see if I bother with a rear bumper - maybe only if/when it gets damaged wheeling. Add smaller stuff along the way. I've been impressed with ATRAC and good tires, so I'll probably save a locker for next year.
I'm just over 2 months in and I'm still loving it. If you're looking for an all-around great reliable vehicle that will always get you to work and then have to head out on the trails, the 100 series is it. Just try not to worry about the terrible fuel economy too much (the only downside I have realized) and enjoy the gobs of torque that all the 80 series and minitrucks crave.
First, finding one - it is damn hard! You need to make craigslist your best friend and search often, or be prepared to shell out big money at a used dealership, likely in another state. I spent 3 weeks searching for mine, and was almost to head to Colorado to buy one there before @Ramathorn15 found a LX470 locally for me before it even went on sale. I worked a deal direct with the owner, and found a nice clean vehicle to start making my own. It seems the LX were not only cheaper, more easy to get as your average person doesn't know they're the exact same as the Toyota. And everybody trusts Toyota trucks, which is why Tacos are so GD expensive.
In picking one, it seems there is a huge variance on price related to mileage and year. Before settling on mine, I drove everything from a $6k 99 with a bazillion miles to a $20k 06 model with low miles. What I found was that, as a daily driver, I really wanted the 5 speed gearbox instead of the 4speed. Its not that its much more powerful or better built, but the engine stays in the power band so much better with the 5spd whereas the 4 speed seemed to always want to search for a gear. This was a big deal as I was buying a daily driver, but if you're looking for a weekend 100 series, a 4spd should suit just fine. The 2UZ engine is not only pretty torque-heavy, it has proven very reliable over the years. This is why if I were you I'd concentrate more on overall vehicle condition and maintenance history than miles. Part of the reason I went with the 100 I have is because it had been serviced since new at every service interval by the dealer (with reciepts), and there was barely a scratch on the entire vehicle. People are still blown away its got over 160k. Also pay attention to when the timing belt was done - that's the one major expensive maintenance item that can get you.
Other general things your'e supposed to worry about on a 100 series. Overall, the list is small. 1) The AHC on the LX models and late LCs can eventually fail. I found one with AHC and it works great. If it fails, I'll put an OME lift and be done with it. There's a way you can quickly evaluate the AHC when test driving to make sure the globes (the expensive bits) are ok. 2) Another thing to be concerned with on the 100 series is the rack and pinions can either loosen up or leak over time. This can be a $1k job. 3) Others have warned about a starter issue, which I think is less a problem on new models? Perhaps I should order a spare now to ensure I'm not stranded. Other than that, things seem pretty bullet proof on the 100.
For mods, basically you can fit 33" tires stock with no lift. Some have fit 34s no lift. Once you want to go to 35s, you will need to replace UCAs, lift, and probably hack at some sheet metal to fit it. I went with 275/70/18s which are metric 33x11 and I've been very happy, no rubbing. I did learn that the newer 100s have 18" wheels which look cool but mean more expensive tires, so do take that into account. I also just finished getting some custom sliders built so I don't fudge up the pretty rocker panels on my next wheeling trip, courtesy of @bomb69tech. With AHC, I've decided to not lift, as I can get body clearance with AHC when I want and still fit 33s, which for me is a good mix of everyday driving and weekend capability.
Next steps for my build are along the same lines as any expedition build - bull bar bumper, winch, roof rack, and rear drawers. We'll see if I bother with a rear bumper - maybe only if/when it gets damaged wheeling. Add smaller stuff along the way. I've been impressed with ATRAC and good tires, so I'll probably save a locker for next year.
I'm just over 2 months in and I'm still loving it. If you're looking for an all-around great reliable vehicle that will always get you to work and then have to head out on the trails, the 100 series is it. Just try not to worry about the terrible fuel economy too much (the only downside I have realized) and enjoy the gobs of torque that all the 80 series and minitrucks crave.
NMBruce
SILVER Star
Congrats on a nice find
- Thread starter
- #9
Congrats indeed! And thanks for the excellent info.
Here is what I ended up with and its current status:
Back In the Fold
Here is what I ended up with and its current status:
Back In the Fold
