Baseline and Maintenance first. A stock 100 is plenty capable for "overlanding"
Have done, would do over? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kjsmiff
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not clear to me if part time conversion is worth the cost.
On regular hard top, stock rig is "all wheel drive" (should never be locked in this config). Think Subaru. All wheel drive is much safer than rear wheel drive (my opinion, no sources handy).
Gravel/off pavement: all the big boys w over landing YouTube channels (know more than I do) say always be locked. That is, is it worth the risk of not having 4 wheel drive when u need it (usually suddenly as u are barreling to a ditch)? Especially with the minute (if any) gas mileage hit (again see big boys).
If u need traction, you are going to need it in real time.
On regular hard top, stock rig is "all wheel drive" (should never be locked in this config). Think Subaru. All wheel drive is much safer than rear wheel drive (my opinion, no sources handy).
Gravel/off pavement: all the big boys w over landing YouTube channels (know more than I do) say always be locked. That is, is it worth the risk of not having 4 wheel drive when u need it (usually suddenly as u are barreling to a ditch)? Especially with the minute (if any) gas mileage hit (again see big boys).
If u need traction, you are going to need it in real time.
Not to mention the timeframe required for a part time conversion to pay for itself in gas mileage savings. I think the only thing appropriately justifiable about the PT kit is the “lightness” people rave about. Personally the 100 series platform has never been so heavy feeling to me to spend that much coin.
As far as suspension, when I got my 100, it was low mileage, great shape overall, but lacked in the suspension arena. On cornering it dipped a lot and had a lot of bounce, so we knew the shocks/suspension needed attention. I installed the ironman nitro gas kit- stage 2. It came with shocks, springs, diff drop, torsion bars and hardware. And man what a difference it made, seems the more I've driven it, the better it feels, and it gave me around 2.5" of lift, a little more in the rear, but it's supposed to take 2 months to settle according to ironman.
I also added trail tailor extended sway bar links front and rear.
I don't hardcore off road, so the foam cell would have been a waste. But for the price, and I bought on sale, 20% off, it's got a lot of bang for the buck. Plus I got a free air compressor, and it's stout too.
I also added trail tailor extended sway bar links front and rear.
I don't hardcore off road, so the foam cell would have been a waste. But for the price, and I bought on sale, 20% off, it's got a lot of bang for the buck. Plus I got a free air compressor, and it's stout too.
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- #46
Hi Cosmo. Thank you for that information. I'm speaking with an Ironman representative on here who recommends springs and shocks front and rear. What year is your rig?
@Live to Ski , there’s plenty of debate and good points on either side of the “worth it” argument. For me, for where I live, where I drive, it’s worth it. No doubt in my mind.
As far as locking into 4 wheel drive off road, yeah, you should be in 4 wheel drive and locked before you need it. But, it’s just not that hard to figure out when that is and push a button.
@MechE30, If you expect it to pay itself back in dollars saved in gas mileage, you’re installing it for the wrong reason. I have watched a handful of differentials and CV axles snap on the trail. I wanted to be able to get home without having to spend time under the rig pulling drive shafts and hub flanges if that happens to me. That peace of mind was the #1 reason I did it. The on road handling was a pleasant bonus.
Anyway, all this has been said before in the thread I linked to and elsewhere. Probably a debate that’s better carried on there. I just mentioned it because it is definitely in the “would do again” category for me.
Cheers.
As far as locking into 4 wheel drive off road, yeah, you should be in 4 wheel drive and locked before you need it. But, it’s just not that hard to figure out when that is and push a button.
@MechE30, If you expect it to pay itself back in dollars saved in gas mileage, you’re installing it for the wrong reason. I have watched a handful of differentials and CV axles snap on the trail. I wanted to be able to get home without having to spend time under the rig pulling drive shafts and hub flanges if that happens to me. That peace of mind was the #1 reason I did it. The on road handling was a pleasant bonus.
Anyway, all this has been said before in the thread I linked to and elsewhere. Probably a debate that’s better carried on there. I just mentioned it because it is definitely in the “would do again” category for me.
Cheers.
JJ sc: now the cv broken scenario is a solid reason that I mis-considered, though I've only heard of the front dif being the main culprit of incapacity. Good call.
