Has this happened to others? (1 Viewer)

[Pascoscout]

I would remove the other 5, one at a time of course, and verify that the serrations are where they are supposed to be. The FSM tells you which side to turn on each one (it's not the same for every bolt/nut combo). If you don't have the FSM then the instructions on Delta Vehicle Systems website for installation of thier radius arms has the correct procedure.

Delta Vehicle Systems - PRE-ORDER FJ/FZJ80/LX450 2/4/6" Front Radius Arms

If your rig is lifted, you NEED to fix the caster! Make sure you get all the extra flex your lift offers by installing our narrower arms.

www.deltavs.com

 

[MyTwoToys]

At the OP, use these.

I am running the Land Tank Castor Correction plates with an Old Man Emu (OME) 2.5 inch lift running 33" Mickey Thompson tires and they work very well. I would recommend them for sure.

Good guy to do business with as well.

Caster plates

Plates that mount to the front axle that corrects for caster after lifting the truck. The 2.5 version corrects caster for a lift range from 2" - 3" and works with the stock front drive shaft. The 4.0 version corrects caster for a lift range from 3.5" - 4.5" and works with a Double Cardon front...

landtankproducts.com

 

[IronCladLou]

That bolt is in shear. If it "snapped" it would have had to have to have sheared off and the shank would still be in there. It looks like it was not tightened correctly and it just fell out. You really don't even need a bolt in this application. A clevis pin and cotter key would work. Torque is not required other than to keep it from falling out and not rattling around.

 

[Dave 2000]

Total vehicle weight on arms before the bolts were tightened?

Bolt holes on both side of arm round and not elongated?

Correct OE bolts fitted, remember replacement bolts that do not have the correct tensile strength fitted?

Anti roll bar working correctly, if not too much flex, although unlikely.

Regards

Dave

 

[Broski]

That bolt is in shear. If it "snapped" it would have had to have to have sheared off and the shank would still be in there. It looks like it was not tightened correctly and it just fell out. You really don't even need a bolt in this application. A clevis pin and cotter key would work. Torque is not required other than to keep it from falling out and not rattling around.

This is not true. Running the bolts loose will cause the holes to oblong from there you’ll start hearing noise under torque conditions they need to be tightened to the proper factory service manual specifications.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Torque is not required other than to keep it from falling out and not rattling around.

I don't agree.
Mr Toyoda certainly didn't agree, torque spec is 127ft,lb

Loose bolts allow a lot of movement at the diff housing causing the housing to clunk as torque shifts the housing under acceleration and deceleration. And you get creaks in the suspension.
As above, holes can end up slotted too.

 

[DrDuc]

I don't agree.
Mr Toyoda certainly didn't agree, torque spec is 127ft,lb

Loose bolts allow a lot of movement at the diff housing causing the housing to clunk as torque shifts the housing under acceleration and deceleration. And you get creaks in the suspension.
As above, holes can end up slotted too.

You guys are talking about things that are above my pay grade. I have sooo much to learn about these rigs. I feel like I’m back at the beginning of when I was learning about building and maintaining custom Italian motorcycles. I’m glad that I like to learn, and I’m incredibly appreciative of Mud members’ willingness to share their knowledge. Thank you to everyone who’s responded to the thread.