Have others had this bolt snap? If so, do you know what you were doing that caused it? It’s on a 1994 FZJ80 with a 2” OME lift running 33” tires.
Has this happened to others? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DrDuc
- Start date
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It was probably loose or over torqued
Has not happened to me. But some Qs:
1) Are they OEM bolts? Were originals reused after lift was done? FSM recommends using new bolts if removed.
2) Were they torqued correctly after lift was installed? Too tight or too loose can cause issues.
1) Are they OEM bolts? Were originals reused after lift was done? FSM recommends using new bolts if removed.
2) Were they torqued correctly after lift was installed? Too tight or too loose can cause issues.
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I had one back out. they were original and had been removed a few times. The nut is serrated so if you tighten it instead of the bolt you will strip it.
I've not seen it personally. My best hunch, over tightened. 2nd best, under tightened 
. What @bwakeling Stated too, if someone cranked on the nut, they could have had it torqued correctly perhaps, but it was almost to the point of being stripped. Or, it was stripped. Either way, that would absolutely cause a problem.
It's a big bolt, if torqued correctly, I'm not sure that it could possibly break. Perhaps...
. What @bwakeling Stated too, if someone cranked on the nut, they could have had it torqued correctly perhaps, but it was almost to the point of being stripped. Or, it was stripped. Either way, that would absolutely cause a problem.It's a big bolt, if torqued correctly, I'm not sure that it could possibly break. Perhaps...
- Thread starter
- #6
I had a shop on the Oregon coast install the lift. They were a 4x4 specialty shop, but I don’t think they had much familiarity with Land Cruisers.
Looks like those are poly castor correction bushings. That puts considerably more strain on those bolts due to lack of cushioning.
alia176
SILVER Star
Toyota suspension hardware has flanged and non flanged parts. The flanged nuts or bolts have four teeth that bite into the surrounding bracket. Most shops don't know the difference and will spin the wrong hardware with their rattle gun, thereby smoothing out the teeth and turning them into a normal hardware. Secondly, they might not have set the 80 on the ground, moved the body around to settle the suspension before rattling on the hardware. Thirdly, they prolly don't know what a torque wrench is. Lastly, those OEM caster correcting bushings put tremendous stress on the hardware and the brackets. Folks have lost the bracket weldment to the axle housing with these bushings.
This forum provides you the guidance to do this and most other jobs yourself because nobody, and I mean NOBODY cares about your 80 like you do.
- Thread starter
- #9
Do one of the sponsoring vendors sell a better castor correction bushing?
They all come from the same factory in china but you can get rubber ones that are better. Find the cheapest ones on ebay. Search for Nissan Patrol rubber castor correction bushings. Buy the cheapest direct from China. They are the exact same but priced cheaper than the LC part.
alia176
SILVER Star
Please read up on caster correction plates as they're little better in some ways. IMHO all suspension bushings in our 80 oughta be OEM, if possible. OEM is durable, more pliant and easy on the surrounding brackets. Unless you're doing Baja racing on the weekends, and have a strong need for that super sexy flexy poser pics, OEM rubber is best for the majority of us.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Maybe it was forgotten. Have you checked the other 5?
point no 1 is the key - these are single use bolts
Caster plates
Plates that mount to the front axle that corrects for caster after lifting the truck. The 2.5 version corrects caster for a lift range from 2" - 3" and works with the stock front drive shaft. The 4.0 version corrects caster for a lift range from 3.5" - 4.5" and works with a Double Cardon front...
landtankproducts.com
I would go this route if I were starting over.
- Thread starter
- #16
Yes. They appear to be ok, at first glance. I will go over them again now that I have more info from all of those that have replied to the thread.
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*^*this
Fixed it for you, and yes.
For all the reasons already mentioned, plus these:
Cc bushings basically never compensate for enough castor.
Cc bushings have maybe 1/4 of the lifetime of oem.
I know they're spendy, but nothing holds a candle to the oem bushings. Get those and deal with castor using plates or even offset trunion bearings.
Did they raise the lower rear pan hard mount?
At the OP, use these.Caster plates
Plates that mount to the front axle that corrects for caster after lifting the truck. The 2.5 version corrects caster for a lift range from 2" - 3" and works with the stock front drive shaft. The 4.0 version corrects caster for a lift range from 3.5" - 4.5" and works with a Double Cardon front...landtankproducts.com
I would go this route if I were starting over.
jfz80
Cruisin’
To clarify you aren’t at risk of stripping bolt threads, moreso removing serrations from the flanged nut face.
On the other had I’ve had mine out 4-5 times and reused without issue ? YRMV
