Has anyone tried to install a Unichip with the PnP harness? (1 Viewer)

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Hi, as I've posted in a few threads, i'm installing a TRD supercharger on my 2001, and it's turned into an ordeal finding parts, time to do it, etc. Anyway, after trying unsuccessfully for weeks to get the the supplemental installation manual for the TRD piggyback ECU, I gave up and just went with the Unichip with their "Plug and Play" PnP harness. But, as it turns out, their directions are all oriented to a Tundra or Sequoia too (which are completely different in how and where the ECU mounts), and I can't for the life of me figure out how this thing is supposed to fit in there. So this is really a post hoping someone has successfully done this and can tell me what i'm doing wrong.

First, here's how the PnP sits as the instructions state. In this position, it sits well into the space the glove box would occupy. I could make this work, but I'll need to cut out the back of the glove box and i guess rebuild it with fiberglass.
A.jpg


So then I tried mounting it on the back of the ECU, as below. In further conversations with them, this is what Unichip is also recommending. The problem is, again there's just no room, because it hits the main ECU harness, and the heater core and impeller fan behind it. In this orientation it sits even farther into the glove box space and even into the hinge area. I wouldn't even be able to put the glove box on with the thing here:
ECU_BacksideA.jpg


This gives a little more perspective on the trouble i'm having mounting it on the back of the ECU. It has to sit exactly here, because its position is dependent on the factory connectors. And in this position, you can see it hits the heater hardware and the whole thing sits proud of the mounting bosses for the ECU. As I'm seeing it, there's just no way to make this work unless I spacer the mounts, which puts me in the glove box anyway:
ECU_Backside B.jpg


So then I tried just sort of letting it float in there, as far to the left of the ECU as possible. This doesn't really work either, though, because again the position is dictated by the factory connectors, and there's maybe a half inch or less of play left and right.
Leads.jpg


And when I tried this I threw in the towel, because I realized even if I could locate the PnP head somewhere, I was never going to get the glove box to close on those long black leads from the unit back to the factory ECU.

All of which leads me to believe either a) the space behind the glove box in my 2001 is somehow different than others b) no one has tried to do this with the PnP head in a 2001 Land Cruiser, or c) I'm making some sort of boneheaded mistake and going about it all wrong. Definitely wouldn't be the first time, so I'm 100% leaving that option open as the most likely, lol.

So, has anyone installed one of these, with that 5-plug PnP head, in their 100 Series? How did you fit it? And does anyone have any ideas I'm not thinking of to make this work? I have so little time every week to work on this thing, and now I'm stuck on this nearly final step, pretty frustrating, so I'm open to any and all thoughts. Thanks!
 
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you can't splice in extra for the 5 and relocate it somewhere else? that's what I'd do. Is there a big picture I don't see?

I put in a box 2x3x3 inches and I couldn't find anywhere to put it but into the glove box, wires through the top, and it sits in the bottom of the glove box. And that's a tiny URD calibrator box.

What all does the unichip control? got a link to what you bought?
 
you can't splice in extra for the 5 and relocate it somewhere else? that's what I'd do. Is there a big picture I don't see?

I put in a box 2x3x3 inches and I couldn't find anywhere to put it but into the glove box, wires through the top, and it sits in the bottom of the glove box. And that's a tiny URD calibrator box.

What all does the unichip control? got a link to what you bought?


So the unichip takes/receives all 5 input connectors from the main ECU, then has its own 5 corresponding connectors on long pigtails running back to the ECU. So to create extensions would unfortunately require sourcing new male and female connectors, and rebuilding what I'm guessing are around 75 wires and pin assignments on each end, so not really practical unfortunately.

That may be clear as mud, so here's a pic. It's meant to sit as below, with the PnP head lined up directly with the factory ECU connectors inputs. You unplug all 5 male connectors from the main ECU, and plug them into the PnP harness, then it has its own long pigtails that then go back out amd the original ECU ports. The factory male connectors are on short stubs, and you can't move them from where they are or even flip them over, so where they sit is where that PnP head has to go.
Screenshot_20200819-124625_Drive.jpg

Now what I could do is relocate the whole factory ECU somewhere in like the kick panel I suppose or under the dash somehwere since the pigtails on the PnP are about a foot long. I don't really want to that, but I'll look more closely when I get back into town this weekend, maybe that wouldn't be as hokey as is seems 🤷‍♂️
 
I understand. Seems like moving the stock ecu is possible.
 
Yes there is hardly any room back there. I unbolted my ECU and removed it so I could make some space behind it in the rubber damping material for the wire harness and then mounted my piggyback ECU underneath the glovebox. Not ideal but also not much choice.


jsTp7oI.jpg

That's really slick actually, but I think unfortunately the ECU3 works differently than the Unichip PnP deal. Does the ECU3 come with extensions for the original male ECU connectors so you could place it remotely?
 
That looks like braided shielding protecting the Unichip wiring (harness). You can probably access the wires inside the shielding by carefully slicing open the shielding to solder on extension wires. You won't have to worry about pins and connectors going that route. It also gives you the greatest flexibility in terms of mounting the Unichip hardware.

Given your space constraints, you may want to tackle the issue by creating an additional 3-5ft. of wire to locate the Unichip module to a better location. Otherwise, you may end up always pissed off that you jammed something up in there, without due elegance, and lose the glovebox functionality. Just my 2 cents.
 
I understand. Seems like moving the stock ecu is possible.

Yeah, that might be the ticket if I can find a good space within about a foot, it's all so tight right there. And honestly cutting out the back of the glove box wouldn't be the hardest thing in the world. I'm just wondering if there's a better way I'm just not seeing, cuz man, this thing is NOT "plug and play" as I'm seeing it, lol.
 
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That looks like braided shielding protecting the Unichip wiring (harness). You can probably access the wires inside the shielding by carefully slicing open the shielding to solder on extension wires. You won't have to worry about pins and connectors going that route. It also gives you the greatest flexibility in terms of mounting the Unichip hardware.

Given your space constraints, you may want to tackle the issue by creating an additional 3-5ft. of wire to locate the Unichip module to a better location. Otherwise, you may end up always pissed off that you jammed something up in there, without due elegance, and lose the glovebox functionality. Just my 2 cents.

It's hard to explain and I'm probably not doing a great job...but those shielded output wires are going BACK to the ECU. The PnP head still has to connect directly to the factory male connectors, right where the original ECU connectors are/were located. In other words, that head has to sit within about an inch of where the inputs for the factory ECU were for it to work. Extending the shielded part would let me move the OE ECU father and farther from its home, but that's what I'm trying to avoid doing.
 
Splicing them sounds like a holy hell of a pain in the rear.... lot of wires. Plus if one wasnt connected just right could cause havoc. I once had a UniChip on a Mini I had and it was like the connectors were not great.... car ended up just turning off at various times...on the freeway, ect. I had Unichip repin the thing and it still didnt work right. Figure if you chop it all up they wont warranty any of it anymore.
 
Splicing them sounds like a holy hell of a pain in the rear.... lot of wires.

Yeah, and I just finished the Nav delete/conversion thing, last thing I want to do is start cutting off connectors and splicing again, lol.
 
It's hard to explain and I'm probably not doing a great job...but those shielded output wires are going BACK to the ECU. The PnP head still has to connect directly to the factory male connectors, right where the original ECU connectors are/were located. In other words, that head has to sit within about an inch of where the inputs for the factory ECU were for it to work. Extending the shielded part would let me move the OE ECU father and farther from its home, but that's what I'm trying to avoid doing.
Now I get it, sorry for being dense. You do have a conundrum on your hands. Sacrifice that glove box and be done with it would be my path forward. You've got a lot of storage space in the center bin anyways.

Hell, if your interior matches that of @ClassyJalopy parts truck, see if you can get his glovebox for a fair deal. Keep the original nice and pretty.
 
I guess I"m a little jaded about making up connectors. I looked at them and wondered how fast I could remake the E5&6 females a few days ago.
my comment about the expandable sleeve that everyone seems to be using these days was just about how much I dislike it. It's the absolute cheapest sheathing one could possibly buy, melts the fastest and snags on everything.
All good though.
 
If it was mine, I'd cut off the sleeving which would instantly reduce the space needed by a good 50%. Then I'd try to hide (ziptie) the wires somewhere. Maybe that way the black plastic part would fit in between the ecu and the heater box (or whatever its called, where you put the cabin air filters into), connectors on the unit facing the front or the back of the car.
 

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