Has anyone here replaced CV boots? (2 Viewers)

spressomon

glutton
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OK...all this talk about leaking CV boots...and one of mine is oozing pretty badly. I ordered the boot kit from CDan. Has anyone here actually done this job themselves? How much time did it take per axle to remove and reinstall?

I am up for the task mechanically speaking...just want to be sure I am 'investing' my time wisely.

Thanks,
 

hoser

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I haven't done it yet but to change only the boots it's:

One 1.8hrs
Both 2.3
Both Sides 4.1
Skill Level: B (moderate--Automotive enthusiast, someone with above average mechanical skills)
 

spressomon

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hoser said:
I haven't done it yet but to change only the boots it's:

One 1.8hrs
Both 2.3
Both Sides 4.1
Skill Level: B (moderate--Automotive enthusiast, someone with above average mechanical skills)
Thanks Hoser. I will probably do this myself...going to check with one of mechanics to get his rate just to be sure it's worth my time/effort. If I do it I'll do a write up/post.
 

spressomon

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calamaridog said:
Now, if I were you, I'd buy a new complete CV, swap it in, then change the boots on the old one and keep it for a trail spare:D
Good idea except I'm short the $800 for the axle assemblies :rolleyes:
 
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Had mine done two weeks ago. Rubber finally cracked and splooed jiz all over the underside. Asked my mechanic if the diff drop would extend the life of the boots. He said that at 120,000 miles, the rubber just gets tired and brittle and that dropping the diff simply "moves" the problem to other components. Drop the diff and the drive-line angles change which can then mean vibration. I would think it depends on how much you crank the torsions.
 
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spressomon said:
Good idea except I'm short the $800 for the axle assemblies :rolleyes:
$328.76 (each) for new from Conicelli Toyota...

I've been quoted between $100-200 for used ones (under 50,000 mi.)

But seriously, I am going to pick up one trail spare. Let me know if you want me to look for you also.
 
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mobi-arc said:
...dropping the diff simply "moves" the problem to other components. Drop the diff and the drive-line angles change which can then mean vibration. I would think it depends on how much you crank the torsions.
I disagree with this. Dropping the diff on a lifted 100 gets the driveline angles closer to stock. This would reduce the chances of driveline vibration because you get the angles closer to stock. The diff drop is only advisable on a lifted 100 though. If you're going to lift, do the diff drop.
 

hoser

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Greg B said:
I disagree with this. Dropping the diff on a lifted 100 gets the driveline angles closer to stock. This would reduce the chances of driveline vibration because you get the angles closer to stock. The diff drop is only advisable on a lifted 100 though. If you're going to lift, do the diff drop.
It can be argued the front drive shaft is now more at an angle than it was left stock. Plus the driveshaft moves 4 times faster than the CV shafts being more prone to vibrations. However, the driveshaft is also longer than the CV shafts.

I'm fine with it... take a little there and a little there... and hopefully nobody will notice.
 
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hoser said:
It can be argued the front drive shaft is now more at an angle than it was left stock. Plus the driveshaft moves 4 times faster than the CV shafts being more prone to vibrations. However, the driveshaft is also longer than the CV shafts.
mobi-arc said:
...dropping the diff simply "moves" the problem to other components. Drop the diff and the drive-line angles change which can then mean vibration. I would think it depends on how much you crank the torsions.

OK, disregard what I said earlier. This is my first IFS rig and I can't get the norms of solid axles out of my head. You guys are absolutely right. Since the diff and the transfer case are both fixed to the frame, lowering the diff will change the driveline angles on the front. But, at the same time reducing the angles of the cv joints.

I'll still put my money on the diff drop though. I would think the u-joints will still be able to handle the small change in driveline angle better than the cv's will hold up to the angles of a lift with no diff drop.
 
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Well with the new boots, it'll be interesting to see how quickly (or not) they wear. I lifted the truck at about 100,000 miles so the fact that the boots went at 120,000 cannot necessarily be blamed on on an aggressive boot angel due to the lift. If the boots need to get replaced at 150,000, then I would have to say that the diff drop would extend the life of the boot, but like everything, there's a tradeoff. For those who have done the diff drop, is there any sense of increased vibration?
 

hoser

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I have installed the diff drop bracket and there has been no increased drivetrain vibrations.
 

spressomon

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hoser said:
I have installed the diff drop bracket and there has been no increased drivetrain vibrations.
Ditto. My boots have been bone dry for several months. After wheeling it hard for 5-days is when the boot (clamp area) started spewing the grease/oil mix. Boot looks fine as does the clamp....who knows eh?

But no vibration with the Slee diff drop kit installed. FYI: I think Shotts had a custom drop kit made that dropped his 3" (if I am not mistaken)...
 
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spressomon said:
Ditto. My boots have been bone dry for several months. After wheeling it hard for 5-days is when the boot (clamp area) started spewing the grease/oil mix. Boot looks fine as does the clamp....who knows eh?

But no vibration with the Slee diff drop kit installed. FYI: I think Shotts had a custom drop kit made that dropped his 3" (if I am not mistaken)...
Nope. Not 3-inches.

Doron designed the diff drop. Slee later marketed the same. A one-inch drop is maximum on the 100.
 

tabraha

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Yeah, the boots are just at the end of their life. Mine pooped out at 90,000 or so and I ran 'em for another 11,000 in nasty conditions (wintertime/mud/muck/slush) and the cv's were fine when the boots were changed. Since I didn't have time to get the 100 back to the dealer when parts came in I had them re-grease the boots so my additional 11,000 was at least on fresh lube until I got back down there. Cost $400 parts and labor for both left and right fronts done at Mr. T for your reference.
 

spressomon

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tabraha said:
Yeah, the boots are just at the end of their life. Mine pooped out at 90,000 or so and I ran 'em for another 11,000 in nasty conditions (wintertime/mud/muck/slush) and the cv's were fine when the boots were changed. Since I didn't have time to get the 100 back to the dealer when parts came in I had them re-grease the boots so my additional 11,000 was at least on fresh lube until I got back down there. Cost $400 parts and labor for both left and right fronts done at Mr. T for your reference.

Thanks Tad. I decided to do the job myself. And I decided to replace the axle with new OEM courtesy of CDan. That way, as another mentioned, I can use my rebuilt for a trailside repair I hope to never make...

I'll take pics and notes and post it up when completed.

Dan
 
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spressomon said:
Thanks Tad. I decided to do the job myself. And I decided to replace the axle with new OEM courtesy of CDan. That way, as another mentioned, I can use my rebuilt for a trailside repair I hope to never make...

I'll take pics and notes and post it up when completed.

Dan
:):beer::)

Have fun!
 
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Get this. The boots on my wifes LX 470 are leaking. They are not torn, but one is throwing out a bunch of grease, to the point it makes me nervous. The powertrain warranty is still in effect. I called the dealer to ask the service manager if it is covered by the warranty (I live 3 hours from the dealer and don't want to make the trip if it is not.) He says that if they are torn, they're covered. If they are just leaking, its not covered. What a bunch of crap. If they malfunction, they malfunction and should be covered under the warranty, as it covers seals in the powertrain. What do you all think?
 
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Do you own a small pocket knife?

I had a similiar problem with a Toyota Certified vehicle. The www.toyota.com site said they were covered however the super fine print for the SE region said they were not. After a few emails to Toyota and NBC, ABC and CBS, lets just say all the boots were replaced at no charge. Only one on one side was leaking. They replaced all 4. These warranties companies do things a little sideways. The best extended warranty I have ever delt with is my wifes MB starmark warranty. Any problem, they fix it, no questions asked.

uzj100
 

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