Harrop Eaton ELockerTM / Yotalockers.com: Info / Installation

Skrewball

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Not saying its the best thing to do, but you could disable the locking tab on the supplied connector to keep it from holding together when pulled. Usually connectors like the Harrop comes with will stay together pretty well without the locking tab.

Just like needing the skill set to properly install one of these lockers(or any other locker), properly routing the control wiring is a major part of a quality install. Routing the wiring for the Harrop is equally important to routing the needed air line for an ARB/Yukon locker.
 

wardharris

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Not saying its the best thing to do, but you could disable the locking tab on the supplied connector to keep it from holding together when pulled. Usually connectors like the Harrop comes with will stay together pretty well without the locking tab.

Just like needing the skill set to properly install one of these lockers(or any other locker), properly routing the control wiring is a major part of a quality install. Routing the wiring for the Harrop is equally important to routing the needed air line for an ARB/Yukon locker.
As I have no skill, will not comment on routing, but the item below might provide a quick disconnect that would not require modifying the OEM (Harrop) harness connector. Enough resistance to keep things connected until that branch reaches up and grabs ya.

My 73 is on the road with its Harrop (shuttling between exhaust and upholstery shops), Georg is wrapping up his Hundy install for T&S and rumor has it that a 200 has some new bits. Should have some new reports soon.....

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:flipoff2:
Elocker plug.jpg

Elocker plug on top of the clamshell and out of harm's way. Picture is courtesy of the awesome guys at forge specialties during the install of a Front and rear Harrop's lockers on my 2015 200. More pictures on their facebook page if interested. Cheers
 

clintnz

 
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Hi Guys

Since everybody is asking about the Harrop locker in an 80 series I should add my $0.02 since I actually have one in an 80 series rear diff. The diff is in my LJ71 along with a few other minor mods ;)



The install was very simple, basically just take the diff apart & put it back together, drill a hole & run some wires. We also slapped in a new set of bearings at the time as the donor axle was a bit of an unknown quantity. The Harrop/Eaton diff centre is a nicely made, beefy looking unit. On the 80 axle the logical place to route the wires is zip-tied up along the brake hose so unless you have issues with brake hoses getting torn off on the trail just do this & don't worry about wire damage.

The supplied wiring harness & relay is simple to install. My only complaint would be that the light on the supplied switch is very dim, you can't really see it at all on a sunny day so it doesn't give a reminder that you have the locker in. I'm about to wire in a brighter light into one of the surplus warning light bezels in the dash, I'll feed this light from the relay output too so I know power is actually going out to the locker.

I've had one occasion soon after I put it in where it didn't lock up. That hasn't happened again though. Just recently I had it throw out with a bit of a bang while turning tight a few km after I had switched it off, otherwise it just works.

Cheers
Clint
 
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wardharris

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Thanks, Clint. Appreciate the field notes. Not surprised by the pop-out in a tight turn (something's gotta give). Not sure about the one time it didn't activate. One of our installers noted that they diff won't lock without some resistance. They installed it and tried to activate while on a lift (no load or resistance) but once it was on the ground, no problem.

As for the light source in the supplied rocker, I wonder if the housing would take a brigher bulb. The install in my 73 used an 80 Series rotary switch and we wired up an LED in what was formerly the fuel screen / pre-heat indicator housing.

Good to hear "it just works."
 

wardharris

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I am now a Harrop owner. My 73 just got out of the shop with its new Harrop. No drama, just works as advertised.

We used an OEM two locker switch.


Indicator light for locker is wired into lamp previously used for pre heat indicator. Checkengine light uses lamp which was formerly the filter screen indicator on the diesel which we replaced with a gasser.
 

Tapage

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So which its the actual price for Harrop eLocker for rear Cruiser 3rds .? ( guess will be close price for the 8" reverse of the 80 series )
 

wardharris

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So which its the actual price for Harrop eLocker for rear Cruiser 3rds .? ( guess will be close price for the 8" reverse of the 80 series )
Suggested Retail Price through our resellers - Harrops P/N 9378 rear and 9334 front - to fit 80 Series are $1,329 each, plus install kits (gaskets, bearings) at $60.43. Shipping from our Stockton warehouse to continental North America and sales tax (if any) on top.
 
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Are Harrop e-lockers available in the US for Lexus GX 460 and does anyone have experiences they could share? I believe it should match up with the Prado but not sure about the 4Runner.
 

wardharris

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I will check with Melbourne to confirm but I believe they are same as 4Runner.
 

wardharris

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Are Harrop e-lockers available in the US for Lexus GX 460 and does anyone have experiences they could share? I believe it should match up with the Prado but not sure about the 4Runner.
I will check with Melbourne to confirm but I believe they are same as 4Runner.
Toyota says the GX 460 and 4Runner diffs are the same. We keep most Toyota ELockers in stock and we are always happy to order up what you need. Here are the p/ns for later model 4Runners/GX 460 Series. Note that the gear ratio/ring size is an important issue.

Thanks,
Ward 'n Georg

Harrop Eaton ELocker - Terrain Tamer 4WD Parts
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gkanai

 
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The Harrop also does not have any components that are mounted externally on the axle housing where they're vulnerable to impact and damage unlike the factory e-lockers.
This is a photo of the factory locker externally mounted components that Georg was referencing. Toyota went so far as to install a guard on the components (the silver metal bit, not the u-bolt skid plate.)

 

Cruiserdrew

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Very interested.

How much current does this draw when "on" ie activated"? What size fuse protects this circuit?

Once activated does it continue to draw power, and if so how much?

Does it unlock just by removing the power, or does it need to have reverse polarity to unlock? (like a Toyota e-locker)

Is there a relay in the circuit, so that when you shut down the vehicle, the locker circuit is de-energized?

How do you seal the hole where the wire enters the diff housing? Something like RTV?

Looks like a nice idea and removes the compressed air from the equation.
 

orangefj45

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This is a photo of the factory locker externally mounted components that Georg was referencing. Toyota went so far as to install a guard on the components (the silver metal bit, not the u-bolt skid plate.)

That "guard" is good enough for brush and it's certainly better than no protection at all but it won't hold up to bigger branches or rocks. However, there are stronger aftermarket guards available from a couple of different vendors like Slee. If you're going to wheel a rig with factory E-Lockers, I'd highly recommend looking into the beefier busted.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 

orangefj45

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Very interested.

How much current does this draw when "on" ie activated"? What size fuse protects this circuit?

Once activated does it continue to draw power, and if so how much?

Does it unlock just by removing the power, or does it need to have reverse polarity to unlock? (like a Toyota e-locker)

Is there a relay in the circuit, so that when you shut down the vehicle, the locker circuit is de-energized?

How do you seal the hole where the wire enters the diff housing? Something like RTV?

Looks like a nice idea and removes the compressed air from the equation.
Good questions Andy.
There's minimal "draw" since you're dealing with a magnetic clutch very similar to the clutch on your AC compressor.
The Harrop harness consists of 2 wires that pass thru the diff housing via a rubber grommet and a small amount of RTV. We checked mine after the initial test drive, after the trip to Pismo and again very recently and there's no sign of any leakage.
The circuit utilizes a fuse and relay. Since my 100 has a factory rear E-Locker we tied the front into the e using factory wiring. That means it's powered by a keyed hot source. It should be set up the same way if you run a separate dedicated circuit. Keyed hot. So when you shut the truck down, the locker(s) deactivate.
Once power to the locker is turned off, it de-activates. There's no reverse voltage signal required.
Hope that answers your questions. Let me know if you need more info.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 

Cruiserdrew

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So it has to draw some current to activate the electromagnet. I was wondering how much. The wires look pretty small, but since it sounds like they are always hot when activated, you would need to have the lockers operated only when the key is on. The fuse in the circuit will tell the tale, since it has to be larger than the maximum amount 2 lockers would draw, but small enough to protect all the wires in the harness.

I'm going to try and pick up an 80 rear axle tomorrow, and want to e-lock the rear for the install into my FJ60.
 
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