Harrop / Eaton ELocker Crowd - New NGR Switch - Where did you put it? (1 Viewer)

[rjones]

Calling any Harrop / Eaton ELocker 100 Series owners with the newer style NGR switch that is supplied with the wiring harness!!

I'm finding out that this Eaton NGR switch in the pic below may need a bigger cutout than your more "standard" Carlin (sp?) styles. Does anyone have any comments/suggetions/direction on this topic? I'm not able to find a multiple switch housing that will fit this. I'd like to find some housing for these (front and rear) that would allow for a few lights or other accessory switches in instead of just cutting out some holes in the dash panel left of the steering wheel. The cutout it seems to need is 21.5mm wide by 41.5mm tall. See images as well.

Thanks in advance for any input!

Pic stolen from @SKULLYOTA of new(ish) style Eaton NGR switch :

Non "standard" dimension Height:

Somewhat standard Width:

Again thanks advance!

Cheers,
rjones

 

[gatormark91]

IMHO - Buy a factory-style 80 or 100 locker dial (depending on if you are triple-locked, or just rear).

 

[MongooseGA]

IMHO - Buy a factory-style 80 or 100 locker dial (depending on if you are triple-locked, or just rear).

This. I love my OEM "locker rocker". Fits perfectly where the good lord intended it to.

 

[Patassa]

I found a housing for them. My nearest trash can.

Calling any Harrop / Eaton ELocker 100 Series owners with the newer style NGR switch that is supplied with the wiring harness!!

I'm finding out that this Eaton NGR switch in the pic below may need a bigger cutout than your more "standard" Carlin (sp?) styles. Does anyone have any comments/suggetions/direction on this topic? I'm not able to find a multiple switch housing that will fit this. I'd like to find some housing for these (front and rear) that would allow for a few lights or other accessory switches in instead of just cutting out some holes in the dash panel left of the steering wheel. The cutout it seems to need is 21.5mm wide by 41.5mm tall. See images as well.

 

[trdcorolla]

This. I love my OEM "locker rocker". Fits perfectly where the good lord intended it to.

View attachment 2898769

Ditto

 

[jLB]

This. I love my OEM "locker rocker". Fits perfectly where the good lord intended it to.

View attachment 2898769

I found a housing for them. My nearest trash can.

Another one of the “throw the Harrop switch in a junk drawer, and use an OE 80 series locker switch” crowd…

 

[rjones]

Thanks for all the reply's. I'm was trying to keep the supplied switch b/c I like the idea of the locksafe button, idea being to help avoid engaging the locker accidentally. Maybe that isn't such a valid concern after all and I guess the 80/100 style push to rotate does the same thing?

Two more questions for you all though...

• My '06 LX does not have the dash lights, do you just skip any lighted indication?
• Is it correct that the 80/100 push to rotate style will not allow you to only lock the front? Is the feeling this is never a concern? By the time you need to lock the front you would always have the rear locked anyway? Makes sense I suppose and is what the OEM is indirectly "telling" you to do?

Thanks again,
rjones

 

[saucebox]

Look through @BenCC's 3D printed parts thread—I also binned my Harrop switch, but it does look a lot like any of the standard rocker switches that he makes panels for. Then you'd have space for any additional switches—lights, compressor, whatever. I used the 6-switch panel that replaces the sunglasses holder.

No dash lights in an '03 either. You'd have to be criminally over the limit to not feel the lockers engaged. Shine a flashlight into your cluster to see what indicators are in there.

The rotary switch won't allow you to do front-only, but it's pretty trivial to add another switch that interrupts signal to the rear locker.

 

[Ayune]

Thanks for all the reply's. I'm was trying to keep the supplied switch b/c I like the idea of the locksafe button, idea being to help avoid engaging the locker accidentally. Maybe that isn't such a valid concern after all and I guess the 80/100 style push to rotate does the same thing?

Two more questions for you all though...

• My '06 LX does not have the dash lights, do you just skip any lighted indication?
• Is it correct that the 80/100 push to rotate style will not allow you to only lock the front? Is the feeling this is never a concern? By the time you need to lock the front you would always have the rear locked anyway? Makes sense I suppose and is what the OEM is indirectly "telling" you to do?

Thanks again,
rjones

- The dash indicator is there for early years, it's just not being told to light up. Not sure for 2006...

- The OEM rotating switch is a push-to-turn, and unless your knee has a thumb you'll be fine.

- Locking the front w/o first locking the rear is odd.

 

[saucebox]

....

 

[rjones]

Look through @BenCC's 3D printed parts thread—I also binned my Harrop switch, but it does look a lot like any of the standard rocker switches that he makes panels for. Then you'd have space for any additional switches—lights, compressor, whatever. I used the 6-switch panel that replaces the sunglasses holder.

No dash lights in an '03 either. You'd have to be criminally over the limit to not feel the lockers engaged. Shine a flashlight into your cluster to see what indicators are in there.

The rotary switch won't allow you to do front-only, but it's pretty trivial to add another switch that interrupts signal to the rear locker.

I've been trying to get the cutout dimensions to the parts you are referencing but have been unsuccessful. I'm pretty sure the Eaton NGR switch style is too tall for his (@BenCC printed parts) cutout though so I was hoping someone solved it for a multi switch console of some sort. Seems not to be the case so it's probably going to be the 80/100 rotate style I guess. Not that I dislike that style, just have a personal preference for the lighted feedback...

- The dash indicator is there for early years, it's just not being told to light up. Not sure for 2006...

- The OEM rotating switch is a push-to-turn, and unless your knee has a thumb you'll be fine.

- Locking the front w/o first locking the rear is odd.

Yeah I'm pretty sure via flashlight trick and some other threads that they are not there for '06 LX at least.

I'm sure you're right about locking the front only. I've never had a front locking diff vehicle but I just assumed you'd want the option.

Cheers and thanks again for the feedback,
rjones

 

[Patassa]

• Is it correct that the 80/100 push to rotate style will not allow you to only lock the front? Is the feeling this is never a concern? By the time you need to lock the front you would always have the rear locked anyway? Makes sense I suppose and is what the OEM is indirectly "telling" you to do?

Thanks again,
rjones

You could also install a switch to just lock the front independent of the rear, use the rotary switch just to lock the rear and/or lock front and rear with the switch. Lot's of options.

 

[MongooseGA]

Thanks for all the reply's. I'm was trying to keep the supplied switch b/c I like the idea of the locksafe button, idea being to help avoid engaging the locker accidentally. Maybe that isn't such a valid concern after all and I guess the 80/100 style push to rotate does the same thing?

Two more questions for you all though...

• My '06 LX does not have the dash lights, do you just skip any lighted indication?
• Is it correct that the 80/100 push to rotate style will not allow you to only lock the front? Is the feeling this is never a concern? By the time you need to lock the front you would always have the rear locked anyway? Makes sense I suppose and is what the OEM is indirectly "telling" you to do?

Thanks again,
rjones

Dash lights would be nice but my '05 LX does not have them. I'm usually hyper-aware whenever my lockers are engaged, have yet to drive out of an obstacle and forget to turn them off. The CDL is another story...

Excepting people in older LXs with LSDs, I can't imagine a circumstance where you'd want to lock the front only. Generally, a locked front (from my experience) will greatly increase the chance of the truck slipping or sliding if it's off-camber and the terrain is loose or wet. This is a circumstance where a locked rear and ATRAC in the front are ideal, IMO. Front should only really be locked if you know you're going to be keeping your front wheels straight. I mainly use my front if I'm going through particularly soupy mud and just don't feel like chancing it, or if I'm doing a steep ascent. Or articulating over rocks. Compared to the rear, my front diff lock gets used maybe 30% of the time.