Hardtop not fitting correctly. (1 Viewer)

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Location
Grand Rapids, MI
I have spent alot of time today putting my hardtop together.

I started by fitting the hardtop sides and then installing garage door weather stripping. I used a sodering iron to bore out the holes so they were perfect to mate the fiberglass hardtop to the sides. I got this idea on MUD and it worked very well.

After I got the top all screwed together I installed the top onto the truck and it fits very nicely except that the b pillar hole won't take the pipe that attached to the hard top. The passenger side needed a little man handling to get it in when the fiberglass hardtop was on but now the darn thing just won't budge on either side.

Need help. I'm sure someone has had this same problem before. I would rather not cut two inches off the bottom but that is something I may have to do.

Any ideas?
bpillarnotseating.jpg
driverssidebpillarnotgoingin2.jpg
Passsidebpillarnotgoingin.jpg
 
are the factory bolts in the B pillar screwed in too far? or are they broken off inside the hole so you cant see them?
 
:bang: Never even thought to check that...will check that out as an options. However I prefit the hardtop sides on first. See pic from this morning.
Fithardtopsides.jpg
 
B pillar screws catching like mentioned above. Or, are the brackets on the front of the hard top catching the windshield frame? That is what catches on mine quite often.

:cheers:
 
If the screws good pick up he back and wiggle it should Fall in
 
:bang: Never even thought to check that...will check that out as an options. However I prefit the hardtop sides on first. See pic from this morning.

Oh i see. try measuring the distance between the two posts on the top at the tips compared to the base. maybe the posts are tipped in/out or front/back not allowing them to slide in all the way.
 
Had the same issue on mine. Turned out to be more serious than just the screw in the b-pillar. There is a round hole down inside your b-pillar that the post on the hard top must fit through. My previous owner tried to force the top passed it and bent it out of shape. Hopefully yours doesn't look like this. He obviously fubar'd the screw in the b pillar too. More pics on page 12 of my build thread.

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Update : B pillar screws I pulled out and its still not dropping in. I pickup up the back and wiggled it and nothing. I think the passenger side b pillar bar is bent just a hair so I'll have to figure out how to straighten it.
 
Just cut off shorter :meh:
Not a bad idea. I just don't want to cut corners or anything else. But everything I have tried is working correctly. If I cut two inches off the bottom is this thing going to rattle???
 
Not a bad idea. I just don't want to cut corners or anything else. But everything I have tried is working correctly. If I cut two inches off the bottom is this thing going to rattle???

shouldnt rattle.....
especially if its bolted down. You may want to stuff some anti-rattle material in there if you are concerned of the rattle. But I think it would work fine if you cut them shorter....

last resort of course!!!
 
It seems that you need less than two inches to cut off. It should not rattle if you tighten with screw. One strong suggestion is add the pole weatherstripping on top and the oem foam weatherstripping that goes between hardtop and tub.
 
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Hey Pistorman. No kidding I am just trying to fit this top so I can properly fit the doors and the rear hatch. Then once all that is fitted I will put the weather stripping on and the top will be off for the summer. I just want to make sure that when it starts getting cold in the fall that all this is handled. I have looked into the weather stripping for in between the tub and hardtop sides but haven't gotten that far yet. Thanks for the input though.
 
I had the same problem. Neither of the B-pillar screws were in, but it stopped right where yours is stopped in the picture. It's those metal holes down inside the B-pillar. I was able to grab the fiberglass top and force it in with my weight hanging off it. It made a screechy metal on metal sound, but that did the trick. Coat those metal posts with Zep-45 or TriFlo or something, that'll help.
 
I want to be able to get the top off without damaging it. Hence not trying to force anything down. I have a few layers of skim coat on the fiberglass hardtop and don't want that to crack. So will probably cut off the appropriate length from the poles, install weather stripping and put the darn thing back on.
 
Just curious but why are you trying to assemble and install it in one piece? Doesn't seem logical to me. :meh:
 
@igotta40 : Logical plays in when you haven't done something. I originally tried this at first and literally was a PITA. So I took it apart and put it together on my flat bed and everything is tight in all the right spots. This is a small issue compared to the problems I had putting it together on the truck. 2 inch gaps on both sides of the rear where the hatch would go, bolts breaking on my new paint job (eek!!!)
@highcountrycruiser : I will try that. The tub is straight on the front of the cruiser. All fenders, aprons and hood lined up with minimal adjustment. I was waiting to get the top fitted before I fit the front doors.
 
I would say bolt it together on the truck, so you have adjustment of some sort. ;)
So your saying fit the front doors first then the hardtop? Just making sure. I've seen this on other builds as well. I'm waiting for new door pins so thought the top fitment would be a piece of cake. If this is the only problem I have with the top I consider myself fortunate.
 

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