Hard top assembly problems, pictures added (1 Viewer)

[Scota4570]

I CAN NOT make my hard top fit back on the windshield and side panels. I took it apart. I do not understand.

I am leaving all the bolts and screws loose. The frustration of the moment is getting the top bolted to the rail between the A-pillar and B-pillar. The first bolt in the top rim dies not fit side to side. How an that be?

IF I tweak the side rail hard enough I can get bolts in. It is off about 1/4" " both front to back and sideways. When I do that it brings the part that goes over the front of the windshield frame out of alignment side to side and and to low. The windshield bolts do not line up. The wiper washers hit the part of the top that is supposed to bolt to the windshield. Also the metal that goes over the top of the windshield is too far foreword leaving a large gap.


I have been messing with it for a couple of days. The paint is getting beat up. Should I need to bend stuff, add washers, and fabricate new brackets??? It makes no sense to me.

Added, The pictures show my issue. There is so much gap that the upper weather strip will be loose.

I riveted the fiberglass back on using the original holes. The sealant was used while flat on the bench. Should i have done the sealant with the top installed on the side panels?????

 

[coinoperated40]

You said you took it apart. Did this come off your 40 or purchased and then you took it apart? Pictures are also good.

 

[Scota4570]

Pictures added. This was all part the same vehicle as made by toyota. There is no mix and match.

 

[Living in the Past]

Pictures added. This was all part the same vehicle as made by toyota. There is no mix and match.

You restored the top while off the cruiser correct? Do you have a picture of the door header from the inside? Did you do any work to the rest of the body while the top was off?

 

[Scota4570]

You restored the top while off the cruiser correct? Yes

Do you have a picture of the door header from the inside? See attached

Did you do any work to the rest of the body while the top was off? I did not. Another guy did. He worked on the curved area on the tube, driver's side, extreme rear. It appears to be done well. The may be causing difficulty with the lift gate door gap but I can tweak that to be good enough.

The spacers are 1/8" leather strips. They are just there to prevent paint damage during fitting.

 

[Scota4570]

Crazy idea??? Could elongated the hole in the bracket to allow the gap to be closed a little, 3/16"? The outside tab with the acorn nut would be modified too. The door gap will be impacted. It might be a good trade off.

 

[B y r o n]

If the top came off that car it should go back on without requiring any modifications. Are the windshield bolts (big black knobs on each side inside the cab) loose?

 

[peesalot]

In the pic with the green arrow, look at the interior corner of the front rail and the side, the curve of the front rail should be right in the pocket on the front of side rail, the gap as pictured would explain the heigth & width issues if it exists on both sides.

 

[70fj40]

If you have any of the top bolts tight, I would loosen all the bolts for the top first. Then try to fit the front. It appears you may have the bolts tightened at the back corners of the top.

 

[coinoperated40]

Are you using all the rubber between everything? Tub to side, sides to top and windshield. Been awhile, so maybe more.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Just to help troubleshoot - was the front visor lip re-riveted as part of the top refurb, or just the outer rim/lip?

Also, I assume you have the big rubber gasket that runs between the fiberglass top and the hardtop sides and rails? That one is pretty substantial/thick with an inner/outer lip.

 

[coinoperated40]

Take a lot of extra steps before you start making things worse.
The old saying, measure twice cut once, applies here also.

 

[Scota4570]

Just to help troubleshoot - was the front visor lip re-riveted as part of the top refurb, or just the outer rim/lip?

Also, I assume you have the big rubber gasket that runs between the fiberglass top and the hardtop sides and rails? That one is pretty substantial/thick with an inner/outer lip.

I did not re-rivet the visor. The old glue was dry but the joint was tight. I flooded the welting with thin CA glue then spritzed with accelerator. After a couple of passes the visor was rock solid. I did not change the angle or position.

For testing, I am using 1/8" thick hard leather strips. They are about the same thickness as the rubber gasket I was sold. The gasket is thick on the edges but thin in the middle. The middle part has ribs. The ribs are about 1/8" high before compression.

I found that if I lift the sides, near the B-pillar, fasten the fiberglass to the sides, them let the sides drop back down it looks decent. Obviously I am bending the fiberglass a little.

I also used a ratchet strap to rack the lift gate opening. The lift gate was crooked in the opening. No amount of hinge tweaking could do it. After I put a big pull on it and tightened the bolts the lift gate fit well enough.

What I am learning is the the body panel fit is really bad, probably as made. I just need to be more aggressive with it.

 

[Slapshot]

I feel your pain. It took me and my friend 2 days of wrestling to get the top back on. That front corner was tough. I remember needing to adjust the rake of the windshield to help align things.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Definitely closer to a tractor than a Rolls Royce in terms of factory panel gaps.