Hard Start Issues

Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
I'm in the process of removing everything between me and the injectors. Having a hard time removing the intake manifold. Yes, I'm using the FSM (page FI-57). Figured I'd ask in this thread instead of making a new one.

I've removed the connectors, hoses, EGR stuff, cold start injector pipe, the 2 bolts holding the stays in front and behind the manifold, 2 nuts and 7 bolts at the bottom of the manifold. The thing will not move. The mechanic I took it to previously decided to put a silicone gasket on the mating surface at the bottom. Could that be holding it? I gave a couple good tugs and it didn't release.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 23, 2014
Messages
73
Location
Lahore - Pakistan
 
I'm in the process of removing everything between me and the injectors. Having a hard time removing the intake manifold. Yes, I'm using the FSM (page FI-57). Figured I'd ask in this thread instead of making a new one.

I've removed the connectors, hoses, EGR stuff, cold start injector pipe, the 2 bolts holding the stays in front and behind the manifold, 2 nuts and 7 bolts at the bottom of the manifold. The thing will not move. The mechanic I took it to previously decided to put a silicone gasket on the mating surface at the bottom. Could that be holding it? I gave a couple good tugs and it didn't release.
confirm that you've remove all the nuts and bolts

use a rubber mallet and hit it like you mean it :p or find a place where you can use a long flathead screwdriver as a lever
The silicone gasket does indeed do that. It'll be tough to nudge but itll come out easily when it does
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
I was finally able to pry the intake manifold off. For the record and those who might have the same problem later on, the solution was to use a gooseneck crow bar. The ones that curve back towards you. I found the best location to place it was between the air/smog pump and the manifold. My manifold had a nub that sat above the mating surface that I could grab a hold off. Needed to take off the air tube from the filter to the pump. Pry towards the front of the vehicle.

As for the repair, I'll get at the injectors this week then have them cleaned.
 
Joined
Jul 23, 2014
Messages
73
Location
Lahore - Pakistan
 
I was finally able to pry the intake manifold off. For the record and those who might have the same problem later on, the solution was to use a gooseneck crow bar. The ones that curve back towards you. I found the best location to place it was between the air/smog pump and the manifold. My manifold had a nub that sat above the mating surface that I could grab a hold off. Needed to take off the air tube from the filter to the pump. Pry towards the front of the vehicle.

As for the repair, I'll get at the injectors this week then have them cleaned.
test the injectors first, if they are leaking don't bother cleaning them
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
Update: Injectors have been serviced and on the way home. Tech reported a pre-service flow difference of 9% between least and greatest volume. Post-service difference is nominal. No leak was reported by tech. Will report back when injectors are installed and car is running.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
I am currently installing the injectors and fuel rail and have a question. I am torqueing down the rail, but noticed the injector boots (if thats the correct name) seem very compressed and mis-shapen. Current torque is about 8 ft-lbs, 1 ft-lb short of spec. Have I tightened too much already or is this okay?

20200528_153232.jpg


20200528_153224.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
Looking through pictures of other 3FE injectors, I noticed mine stick out from the manifold a good bit compared to others. This pic was from tucker74 in the thread "3FE adventure". My injectors came back with a rubber spacer on the pintle cap, but I did not send them in with one. I think that is what is causing the spacing issue. I'll take them off.

1590708764273.png
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
I need to not be so mechanical and think when doing things. When the injectors were initially removed, the rubber spacer stayed in the injector cup. I doubled up when I went to install refurbished injectors. Hence the issue. Ordered new cups+orings. The old ones were nasty. Thanks for the rubber ducking MUD! :)
 
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
152
Location
Utah Valley
I'm about at the point of doing the fuel injection on my rebuild, so this and the diagnostic info, is timely.

Do you happen to have a pic of the end of your injectors? I'm curious which style they are.
 
Joined
Jul 23, 2014
Messages
73
Location
Lahore - Pakistan
 
I need to not be so mechanical and think when doing things. When the injectors were initially removed, the rubber spacer stayed in the injector cup. I doubled up when I went to install refurbished injectors. Hence the issue. Ordered new cups+orings. The old ones were nasty. Thanks for the rubber ducking MUD! :)
best of luck.. happens to all of us :d
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
I'm about at the point of doing the fuel injection on my rebuild, so this and the diagnostic info, is timely.

Do you happen to have a pic of the end of your injectors? I'm curious which style they are.
Here ya go. If you want anything else let me know before I put everything back in.

20200531_182732.jpg
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Alabama
If you have a donor vehicle swap out the idle air sensor. Sounds like an issue I encountered. Make sure your mass airflow meter is hooked in fully as well
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
Gents, I have a car again! After re-assembly, she is running, although not perfectly (more on that later).

Starting from where I last left off: Installation of injectors. I had a hard time installing the injectors properly. Reason being the pintle caps of the injectors would never fully enter the plastic spacers on the engine. Solution: Assemble the injectors+spacers first, then install the injectors on the fuel pipe, THEN install pipe onto engine.

Next up, manifold installation, where I stripped a bolt. Turns out, the intake manifold bolts are NLA. The kind sir at my dealer found that 22R manifold bolts are almost identical. Difference is 22R bolts are grade 5 vs stainless steel and they come with a lock washer. Threw those on, and the rest was relatively painless.

It took 4 cranks, but she finally caught. I noticed a high idle, ~1100 rpm. When I threw it in gear, the truck wanted to really move without my foot being on the pedal. My guess is I have the accelerator cable too tight at the throttle body. I'll loosen it and check. As for the original issue of hard starts, I will monitor as I start driving more frequently.

Questions welcome, cheers :beer:
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Southwest
After some drives around town, truck feels great. The high idle was solved by loosening the accelerator cable and I further tightened the kickdown cable. Shifts were too "floaty" and luxurious. Feel snappier now. Main benefit I see/feel from the injector cleaning is power and balance.

Regarding the original issue of hard starts, it seems to still be there. I've had some hard "choked" starts, but I believe those were caused by me not leaving the key turned long enough to fully turn over the engine. The hard starts now are characterized by long cranks. I say long in a relative sense, very subjective.

Today I started the truck twice: cold and hot, with about 40 mins in between starts. Both times, engine cranked for long enough to normally start. I backed off, then tried again. Engine fired up in less than a second the 2nd attempt.

Next tasks: Verify fuel pressure is holding after engine shutdown, valve adjustment, and verify proper timing setting. I will start timing my cranks and report them.
 
Top Bottom