Hard brake line issues (1 Viewer)

[Bigjayva]

I replaced my hard brake lines in my 100 series and took both long runs out in one piece. I then formed some Nicop line to the factory lines I pulled out and flared the lines and put new fittings on. Getting them back in was a daunting task to say the least but I got them in. Went to bleed it today and every one of the fittings is leaking. The new fittings are 3/16 albeit a little shorter than the fittings that came out. I then cut the lines in the front that connected to the t's on the frame and put a factory fitting from the old brake lines I took out (thinking it was a fitting issue) and it still leaks. So frustrating. Anyone have any advice? Also I tried to find preformed hard lines and can't seem to find the long runs anywhere on the web.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

What do the ends of the lines look like where you put the double flares?

FYI: All the preformed OEM lines are still available new from Toyota. The NiCop will last longer, though.

BRAKE TUBE & CLAMP | Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNPEKA UZJ100 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq

If you are looking for BRAKE TUBE & CLAMP Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNPEKA UZJ100 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!

partsouq.com

 

[Bigjayva]

What do the ends of the lines look like where you put the double flares?

FYI: All the preformed OEM lines are still available new from Toyota. The NiCop will last longer, though.

BRAKE TUBE & CLAMP | Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNPEKA UZJ100 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq

If you are looking for BRAKE TUBE & CLAMP Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNPEKA UZJ100 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!

partsouq.com

Thanks for the reply. The double flares looked fine. I've done this a number of times on other vehicles I've owned and never had an issue. I'm going to try to get them reseated tomorrow and if that doesn't work I will use your link and buy the factory lines.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Thanks for the reply. The double flares looked fine. I've done this a number of times on other vehicles I've owned and never had an issue. I'm going to try to get them reseated tomorrow and if that doesn't work I will use your link and buy the factory lines.

Might be an issue with the nut length then. I bought a batch from NAPA when I was making NiCop lines for the 40 that were stubby compared to the OEM flare nuts.

 

[Bigjayva]

Might be an issue with the nut length then. I bought a batch from NAPA when I was making NiCop lines for the 40 that were stubby compared to the OEM flare nuts.

I think you're right. Did the stubby ones work or did you have to get new flare nuts?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I think you're right. Did the stubby ones work or did you have to get new flare nuts?

I had to get longer M10 x 1.0 flare nuts.

 

[Bigjayva]

I had to get longer M10 x 1.0 flare nuts.

I think that's what I need. I don't think those shorter ones are smashing the flare and putting enough pressure on it

 

[Bigjayva]

I switched the 4 fittings to the oem fittings and reflare the lines. I got them seated and at least now they don't appear to be leaking. I need to bleed the system now. The reservoir has never went dry during this process. Can I just do the two man method like a regular brake flush? Or do I need to bleed the abs with the 40 pump technique?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Follow FSM procedure. Key off, Pump 40+ times until the pedal drops out and then make sure the reservoir is filled up. Then turn key ON, hold pedal down, and crack a bleeder open. Without Techstream to activate the system, it will take some time to bleed all 4 corners, but certainly doable without if you have hours to spare.

 

[Bigjayva]

Follow FSM procedure. Key off, Pump 40+ times until the pedal drops out and then make sure the reservoir is filled up. Then turn key ON, hold pedal down, and crack a bleeder open. Without Techstream to activate the system, it will take some time to bleed all 4 corners, but certainly doable without if you have hours to spare.

Follow FSM procedure. Key off, Pump 40+ times until the pedal drops out and then make sure the reservoir is filled up. Then turn key ON, hold pedal down, and crack a bleeder open. Without Techstream to activate the system, it will take some time to bleed all 4 corners, but certainly doable without if you have hours to spare.

I did the front passenger then front driver until there were no bubbles then did the back. Took 5 or 6 go's each before no air was coming out. My pedal is nice and firm..no abs light no leaks. I should be good? Didn't take that long to do the rears unless I'm missing something. I really appreciate the advice.