Hannibal roof racks: how good? (1 Viewer)
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I've stated my opinion in the 80's section several times. I know there are several threads in that forum related to racks, so you may want to search.
Worth every penny imho.
I like:
- the rail down the gutter to distribute the weight evenly
- the aluminum yet beefy build (weight)
- tent fitment
I dont like the cost and the fact that there's a serious shortage of them right now. I think the San Diego folks overextended themselves. Two months and I'm still waiting on a tent.
I like:
- the rail down the gutter to distribute the weight evenly
- the aluminum yet beefy build (weight)
- tent fitment
I dont like the cost and the fact that there's a serious shortage of them right now. I think the San Diego folks overextended themselves. Two months and I'm still waiting on a tent.
If you're spending that kind of dough, take a look at the African Outback rack Slee is selling as well.
I've got a half rack Outback and I love it.
They are nice, they rattle and work loose over time. They are very expensive. I would look into making your own. You should be able to get exactly what you want for less money from a commercial welding shop. Look into the ARB racks, Hanniable, INTI, Brownchurch, Kaymar, and outback. Every rack has good and bad points. If you combine features from all of them you can get a great rack.
dd113 said:
I agree 100%. The biggest focus for a homemade rack should be weight, strength and rigidity. You don't want it overbuilt (common mistake), and you don't want it too rigid or it will rip the rain gutter right out if tweaked sideways. Tough repair, and expensive.
A good roof rack should be easily manouvered by two people and be strong enough to hold both people up there, plus gear. Height should be as short as possible to keep wind resistance down, most roof racks play havoc with the 60 series's already atrocious fuel consumption.
If you can swing aluminum fabrication, I think that's the best option.
>> If you can swing aluminum fabrication, I think that's the best option. <<
Outback, powder coated aluminum. Light and strong.
Outback, powder coated aluminum. Light and strong.
I would stay away from drilling into the roof, there's no need for it and there will be dire consequences (rust, leaks).
A well designed, well built roof rack will be *very strong*. My rack has an aluminum frame with steel clamps (six) and a light superstructure of steel tubing, and I've had four hefty Cruiserheads on top of it, probably close to 800 lbs. I think it would hold more, but I don't like carrying much weight up there, roof racks are for the bulky, hard-to-store items, not to haul freight around.
I have a friend who uses his FZJ80 for long-range expeditions and he routinely carries between 400-500 lbs of gear, including 35 gallons of liquid and a full-size spare tire up there.
A well designed, well built roof rack will be *very strong*. My rack has an aluminum frame with steel clamps (six) and a light superstructure of steel tubing, and I've had four hefty Cruiserheads on top of it, probably close to 800 lbs. I think it would hold more, but I don't like carrying much weight up there, roof racks are for the bulky, hard-to-store items, not to haul freight around.
I have a friend who uses his FZJ80 for long-range expeditions and he routinely carries between 400-500 lbs of gear, including 35 gallons of liquid and a full-size spare tire up there.
>> Also, with a home made rack, would it be any better to bolt into the area <<
>> where the stock roof rack mounts? <<
No. Use the gutters.
-B-
>> where the stock roof rack mounts? <<
No. Use the gutters.
-B-
scottm
SILVER Star
I'm looking into building a homemade rack. I build a lot of machine frames with 80/20 aluminum extrusions, http://www.8020.net/, it's very strong and versatile. The 1.5" x 3" stuff I usually use is heavy, the 1" x 2" is less common and therefore more $, but much lighter. The attachment options are endless, there are thousands of companies making these extrusions and compatible attachments. All my Thule stuff would just bolt down without modification. The towers are the only complicated part, but that's the kind of stuff I do at work anyway, so I'll come up with something. I'd really like to use a plywood floor, like this: http://www.carpages.co.uk/land_rove...n_quality_roof_rack_for_defender_18_02_04.asp
but a smaller floor. The aluminum rails I'm seeing for floors seem overly complicated, too many welds and joints to go wrong.
but a smaller floor. The aluminum rails I'm seeing for floors seem overly complicated, too many welds and joints to go wrong.
scottm -
I have a feeling that rack has crossbars, just no solid floor like the steel mesh one on the ARBs and Kaymar/Tradesmans. So they add a plywood addition to allow you to more easily walk around or sleep up there. My Tradesman was the same way, and I didn't feel like paying an extra ~$200 for mesh flooring, so I use two sheets of 3/4" plywood, sealed, and that's my floor if I need one. But for simple load carrying, the crossbars are all you need, the flooring adds nothing to the load carrying capacity, just makes it easier to move around up there. On my rack, the crossbars are something like every 6" which is all you need.
I have a feeling that rack has crossbars, just no solid floor like the steel mesh one on the ARBs and Kaymar/Tradesmans. So they add a plywood addition to allow you to more easily walk around or sleep up there. My Tradesman was the same way, and I didn't feel like paying an extra ~$200 for mesh flooring, so I use two sheets of 3/4" plywood, sealed, and that's my floor if I need one. But for simple load carrying, the crossbars are all you need, the flooring adds nothing to the load carrying capacity, just makes it easier to move around up there. On my rack, the crossbars are something like every 6" which is all you need.
scottm
SILVER Star
Could you go thinner than 3/4" plywood, that sounds heavy? I'm seeing lots of comments on weight. How do you fasten the plywood down? I'm thinking button heads into aluminum angle around the perimeter, the angle would fasten into the extrusion. Do you have any holes for drainage or fastening points? That might make it less comfortable for sleeping unless I provide fillers for the holes, hmmm.
Rack sites comment on minimal crossbars for less wind noise, yours must have a lot of crossbars, noisy? I plan on making a wind deflector for the front.
Feet or continuous rails? The rain gutters are amazingly beefy. I plan on wide feet, up to 12", to distribute load and reduce total supports needed. Multi-adjustable supports are a pain to design & build, heavy, more $. I love the Thule design, but it won't work. No answer on the max load question above, but I run over 500# on my Thule rack occasionally.
How long, 6'? Up to 8' is no problem. The crossbars wouldn't have to go all the way to the front, but could if needed for oversize loads or sleeping platform. Sliding the crossbars back would cut wind noise and allow sunroof access when full length isn't needed. Four feet seems good for width, plus a little for hauling wood and using standard 4' sheets as flooring. How long & wide would be needed for a sleeping platform?
How tall? My plan is something low profile that can be flipped to give 2" walls around the perimeter. Most expedition racks have a higher rail, easy enough to make one I guess.
Rack sites comment on minimal crossbars for less wind noise, yours must have a lot of crossbars, noisy? I plan on making a wind deflector for the front.
Feet or continuous rails? The rain gutters are amazingly beefy. I plan on wide feet, up to 12", to distribute load and reduce total supports needed. Multi-adjustable supports are a pain to design & build, heavy, more $. I love the Thule design, but it won't work. No answer on the max load question above, but I run over 500# on my Thule rack occasionally.
How long, 6'? Up to 8' is no problem. The crossbars wouldn't have to go all the way to the front, but could if needed for oversize loads or sleeping platform. Sliding the crossbars back would cut wind noise and allow sunroof access when full length isn't needed. Four feet seems good for width, plus a little for hauling wood and using standard 4' sheets as flooring. How long & wide would be needed for a sleeping platform?
How tall? My plan is something low profile that can be flipped to give 2" walls around the perimeter. Most expedition racks have a higher rail, easy enough to make one I guess.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
Scott,
Can I place a pre-order for one of the prototypes
Can I place a pre-order for one of the prototypes
I'm will be fabricating my own later this summer, I'm thinking about making a platform, like Hannibal or Africn Outback, as what stays on the vehicle all the time. Then make the rail so it is removable, maybe slips over the outside rail and locks into place with bolts or pins.
Yes I would just make the verticle railes, but I have height issues living in the damn city.
Yes I would just make the verticle railes, but I have height issues living in the damn city.
scottm
SILVER Star
DRTDuck said:
How tall is too tall? I think 1/2" from the highest point on the roof to the crossbar, then another inch of aluminum to the top in the low configuration. Another three inches in highest configuration.
scottm said:
Yes you can go thinner if your well supported undernieth by tube. If you have a large span, say 2 feet, between supports than you'll want a thicker piece of plywood. You don't need to fasten the wood down, the gear your' hauling and your straps holding that gear will hold it down. When you aren't hauling gear you just remove the deck. It just acts as a sail and kills gas mileage.
Personally I like trailers. I still use my rack when I shuttle boaters, I have a full trailer, full size rack with dry bags and paddles and a full 80.
Here is a link to the rail supports I use http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product_list.asp?deptid=1379&ItemSort=VendorLogo
They are called quick and easy, and they are, they are also inexpensive. The tube adapter is the same diameter as a Yakima crossbar, so there is a plus for Yakima accessories too.
Another plus to the gutter mount system is you can transfer it to different vehicles, provided you design in some adjustment to the mount width. I have had mine on a Volvo 740, 240, 4-runner, 40, 55, and 80.
Hannibal racks are overpriced.
I made a rack for myself, then realized how many over-priced racks are out there that are made for mall-terrain vehicles and not for use. First of all if a Roof-Rack comes without a floor, It is made for show. Just my $.02
I just got my web-site running, and would be happy to share my fab experience with these racks with anyone. a 42"x60"x6" weighs about 50 lbs
Two people can install a 84"x60"x6" without too many problems.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze5cj9x/roof_racks.html
Bill Atkinson
BA Outfitters
I made a rack for myself, then realized how many over-priced racks are out there that are made for mall-terrain vehicles and not for use. First of all if a Roof-Rack comes without a floor, It is made for show. Just my $.02
I just got my web-site running, and would be happy to share my fab experience with these racks with anyone. a 42"x60"x6" weighs about 50 lbs
Two people can install a 84"x60"x6" without too many problems.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze5cj9x/roof_racks.html
Bill Atkinson
BA Outfitters
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