Hacking Night View (1 Viewer)

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nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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One big problem I have with Night View is that the computer determines when to enable the IR projectors (above 4mph, it has to be dark out, etc) Additionally, the dashboard light only illuminates when the Night View projectors are burnt out, which is inconsistent with what I'd expect (I'd love for the Night View LED to be illuminated whenever the Night View is turned on). Hacking the circuitry in the engine "room" is fine, since it's accessible. Grounding pin 7 gives me the Night View LED on the dash.

Unfortunately, though, it looks like the rest of the circuitry is tied into the Night View ECU.

I'm 100% sure someone else has run into this problem and disappointment with the factory system before. Does anyone know if the Night View ECU can be tricked into thinking the vehicle is going above 4mph at all times and that it's nighttime? Do I need to 'murder out' (tint) the camera on the rearview mirror? I just want the IR projectors to be engaged, regardless of whether the computer thinks its a good idea or not.

Night View schematic attached,
 

Attachments

  • LNVS.pdf
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Surprised to see you with a seemingly serious post about Night View. Assuming I'm not pay the troll under the bridge, here's my take:

In the FSM (or EWD if your pages aren't pulled from the EWD) there should be a section that details expected electrical values for various states for the inputs into the system. I'd find out what signal the NV ECU expects to turn itself on. You intercept those leads and produce those values on your own via a resistor and/or switch.

In most the TEWD diagrams I thought they normally had a series of pin to pin tests. I surprised your attached doc doesn't show those.
 
EFF4DA71-646F-4B9E-BF23-693E6C49C103.jpeg
 
It looks like the speed sensor input to the Night View ECU (NVECU) is on N6 pin 6.

And the light sensor input to the NVECU is on N6 pin 14.

If you disconnect those inputs to the NVECU you could then either ground or apply +12V* to each input pin, tricking the NVECU into thinking it’s dark, or moving fast, or both. Simply disconnecting them could have an effect too, depending on circuitry inside the NVECU. Do one wire at a time and observe its effect before moving on to the other.

*Disclaimer: The NVECU may expect a “high” voltage of less that 12V for these pins, so do so at your own risk.
 
It looks like the speed sensor input to the Night View ECU (NVECU) is on N6 pin 6.

And the light sensor input to the NVECU is on N6 pin 14.

If you disconnect those inputs to the NVECU you could then either ground or apply +12V* to each input pin, tricking the NVECU into thinking it’s dark, or moving fast, or both. Simply disconnecting them could have an effect too, depending on circuitry inside the NVECU. Do one wire at a time and observe its effect before moving on to the other.

*Disclaimer: The NVECU may expect a “high” voltage of less that 12V for these pins, so do so at your own risk.
So just randomly apply voltage to pins? That seems sketchy
 
Surprised to see you with a seemingly serious post about Night View. Assuming I'm not pay the troll under the bridge, here's my take:

In the FSM (or EWD if your pages aren't pulled from the EWD) there should be a section that details expected electrical values for various states for the inputs into the system. I'd find out what signal the NV ECU expects to turn itself on. You intercept those leads and produce those values on your own via a resistor and/or switch.

In most the TEWD diagrams I thought they normally had a series of pin to pin tests. I surprised your attached doc doesn't show those.
So the Night View EWD is sort of an "add-on" to the canonical EWD. I paid for TIS and looked for anything I could for it
 
So just randomly apply voltage to pins? That seems sketchy

It's not random. The Speed Sensor wire (N6 pin 6) is grounded via a transistor when the vehicle gets moving. In the pic below the wire circled in red is the vehicle's speed input to the speedometer. When that input (voltage) is high enough it turns on the transistor which connects the NVECU wire to ground (the green line). So, it is safe to ground N6 pin 6 because it is grounded during normal operation. This should tell the NVECU that you're always moving fast.

When the red-circled wire is zero volts (vehicle stopped), the transistor is turned off and the NVECU wire is disconnected from ground.

Speed Sensor.jpg


The Light Control Sensor's operation is not as obvious since it's just a blue box, but since the yellow wire (N6 pin 14) goes to both the Body and NV ECUs it's most likely the wire that is telling the NVECU that it's dark. For that wire I'd cautiously approach it this way:

1. Disconnect the Light Sensor input wire from the NVECU (N6 pin 14), tape it off.

2. Drive around and observe NV behavior. Either:
a) NV now works in both light and dark, or
b) NV doesn't work at all.

3. If 2(a) then you're done! If 2(b) then untape the wire and measure its voltage in both dark & light (with ignition ON of course). THEN measure its continuity to ground in both light & dark. Both of these measurements will tell you how the wire behaves.

Possibilities:
a) The voltage changes depending on ambient light.
b) The continuity to ground changes depending on ambient light.
c) The voltage and continuity do NOT change depending on ambient light

4. If 3(a) then you're interested in the wire's voltage when the sensor is dark. If 3(b) then you want to mimic the wire's continuity when dark. If 3(c) then this is not the correct wire to be investigating.
 
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So the Night View EWD is sort of an "add-on" to the canonical EWD. I paid for TIS and looked for anything I could for it
Sigh. The troll is as dedicated as ever. Complete with relevant attachments, now.
 
It's not random. The Speed Sensor wire (N6 pin 6) is grounded via a transistor when the vehicle gets moving. In the pic below the wire circled in red is the vehicle's speed input to the speedometer. When that input (voltage) is high enough it turns on the transistor which connects the NVECU wire to ground (the green line). So, it is safe to ground N6 pin 6 because it is grounded during normal operation. This should tell the NVECU that you're always moving fast.

When the red-circled wire is zero volts (vehicle stopped), the transistor is turned off and the NVECU wire is disconnected from ground.

View attachment 2194167

The Light Control Sensor's operation is not as obvious since it's just a blue box, but since the yellow wire (N6 pin 14) goes to both the Body and NV ECUs it's most likely the wire that is telling the NVECU that it's dark. For that wire I'd cautiously approach it this way:

1. Disconnect the Light Sensor input wire from the NVECU (N6 pin 14), tape it off.

2. Drive around and observe NV behavior. Either:
a) NV now works in both light and dark, or
b) NV doesn't work at all.

3. If 2(a) then you're done! If 2(b) then untape the wire and measure its voltage in both dark & light (with ignition ON of course). THEN measure its continuity to ground in both light & dark. Both of these measurements will tell you how the wire behaves.

Possibilities:
a) The voltage changes depending on ambient light.
b) The continuity to ground changes depending on ambient light.
c) The voltage and continuity do NOT change depending on ambient light

4. If 3(a) then you're interested in the wire's voltage when the sensor is dark. If 3(b) then you want to mimic the wire's continuity when dark. If 3(c) then this is not the correct wire to be investigating.
A++ - awesome. I just need to get to the Night view ECU. Which is in the worst location AFAIK

Actually, since the combination meter is easier to access, if I follow your logic, I could just ground pin 16 from the meter and it should always tell the night vision ECU that things are cool. Correct?

It's theoretically possible that the ambient light sensor is some sort of common multiplexed CANBUS bs logic, no? Worst case, then, I guess I could just put electrical tape on the light sensor?
 
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Sigh. The troll is as dedicated as ever. Complete with relevant attachments, now.
What? This is no troll. My true intentions are that I want to use the Night View switch to control some off-road lights. That is hard to do if the computer is deciding when to enable them.
 
A++ - awesome. I just need to get to the Night view ECU. Which is in the worst location AFAIK

Actually, since the combination meter is easier to access, if I follow your logic, I could just ground pin 16 from the meter and it should always tell the night vision ECU that things are cool. Correct?
Yes, but I would first disconnect the blue wire from cluster connector D pin 16, then ground that loose wire. It's probably not necessary but I prefer to move connections rather than add them.

It's theoretically possible that the ambient light sensor is some sort of common multiplexed CANBUS bs logic, no? Worst case, then, I guess I could just put electrical tape on the light sensor?
It's possible but unlikely. It probably works just like the speed sensor circuit: "If something (ambient light) is above a certain level then ground this wire." Or opposite. But electrical tape is very low-risk. Is it the same sensor that tells your headlights to turn on?[/QUOTE]
 
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What? This is no troll. My true intentions are that I want to use the Night View switch to control some off-road lights. That is hard to do if the computer is deciding when to enable them.

Unsure if serious or doubling down on ninja level troll...


Why not use a switch for the off road lights? Or are you using ir aftermarket lamps and legitimately trying to use the nv system?
 
Unsure if serious or doubling down on ninja level troll...


Why not use a switch for the off road lights? Or are you using ir aftermarket lamps and legitimately trying to use the nv system?
I've run out of dash switch locations
 
So it's a weird square hole, I dont like it

If only there was a technology that could use some kind of additive method to create material from nothing into any conceivable shape - like a NV slot with a square hole for a light switch. Between @BenCC @Ayune and myself, one of us might just help you print up a little plate for the OEM switch location with any hole you like. Hell, @BenCC might have already made one with how fast he was churning out designs for a while there.
 
If only there was a technology that could use some kind of additive method to create material from nothing into any conceivable shape - like a NV slot with a square hole for a light switch. Between @BenCC @Ayune and myself, one of us might just help you print up a little plate for the OEM switch location with any hole you like. Hell, @BenCC might have already made one with how fast he was churning out designs for a while there.
You do make a good point, I have to admit. I assume the rigs without nightview didn't have this bizarre opening shape like mine?
 
Is there anything preventing you from using the switch alone to do what you need, rather than hacking the whole circuit? Just activate a relay or something?
 
Is there anything preventing you from using the switch alone to do what you need, rather than hacking the whole circuit? Just activate a relay or something?
I thought about that, but it's a momentary switch which would require the use of latching relays or something.
 

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