H55- 5psd into FJ-55 (1 Viewer)

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The time has come... My modified 2F, H55, and split case are going in my '72 FJ-55. Any pointers before I begin? The old motor, trans, and t-case are almost out ( pesky rear motor mounts). Looks like I'll be drilling a few holes for tranny crossmember support, sheet metal in the hump will need to be modified, and the driveshafts, not mention the alternator wiring... Got the parking brake adapter kit.

I'm sliding the whole unit ( motor, tranny, t-case) in from the front. Will I clear the tangs for the rear motor mounts, attached to the frame???

Pics of modified motor and installation to follow. This needs to be completed before surf'n'turf...
 
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The H55 is a heavy beast.

In the 60 series( USA Spec), the 4spds had crossmembers to support the tranny. The non-usa spec also had support for the 5spds. I want to use this crossmember in the FJ-55 with a little fab work. One thing I need to do is drill holes in the frame so I can attach the crossmember to it.


Seth
 

cruiserbrett

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off the top of my head: tranny shifter will come out further back than the 3/4 spd FJ55's(unless you have a bj42 top cover plate for it)-might hit the bench or center console.

Parking brake cable will be too short. might use a 74 FJ40 cable, and an FJ40 parking brake drum backing plate so that the extra cable will be used by the cable routing from drivers side to pass. side.

rear part of tranny hump will need to be pushed back a bit. not a lot of room for longer drivetrains without lengthening bump.

kragen has longer speedo cables if yours is a later 72 and uses the plastic clip for the speedo head. I think the 77ish FJ40 one will work and it was all of $11 new at kragen.

72 driveshaft flanges will not bolt up to the split case. the parking brake drum on the split case PB conversion i did a while back had the 74-85 pattern. as for the front, depending on the vintage of the t-case that might be yet another different bolt pattern. Cruiseroutfitters has excellent prices on new flanges for the front of the t-case and axles. the pinion flanges are cheaper new from kurt than the speedy sleeve to fix a grooved flange so go new if you have to do anything with the flanges, and he offers all the DS bolt patterns.

will have to notch the figure eight shaped hole in the bellhousing/tranny mating surface for the oil passage on the H55f to clear.

I am not sure on FJ60 vs FJ55 frame width, but I would guess you might have to modify the x-member for width.

stock FJ60 crossmembers are not really all that friendly for lifts/or lots of flex, partiularly with the later h42 or h55 with that 4" spacer, since it pushes the t-case front output further back in relation to the x-member and limits driveshaft droop. I am not sure if yoiu wheel it alot, but this can be an issue.
 
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The crossmember definitely needs to be modified but it can be done. That is exactly what I did on my daughters FJ55 when I put the 3B in. The 3B never had any means of rear mounting other than the tranny mount. You'll be frustrated by the mounting holes for the crossmember unless you either a) sleeve the frame or b) drill holes on the outside of the frame to install the bolts through. The lightening holes already existing in the frame are insufficient to allow access to install those bolts.

I can't speak to width issues with the split case though as we used a 3 speed case and the H42 tranny modified with a 3B input shaft and newer case (with the mounting location cast in). There is room for the PTO box in there though so you may be in luck.
 
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Just a little update... Old drive train is out, new drive train is sitting next to the '55. The new one is a beast!! I can't believe how much it weighs. I had to have a friend help me move the engine puller.

I'm going to pull the old engine mount off. Cruiserbrett mentioned something about my motor mount brackets having small holes, so I may need to enlarge them.


I am contimplating ditiching the stock fan and using an electric fan instead. I'm not sure if I will have enough room. Hopefully I can mock the engine up today and see how things fit. I'll put some pics up in the near future. i figure pulling the stock drive train isn't really picture worthy.

Since I don't have a late model hood yet, I may need to make a booty fab engine sccop. :grinpimp:
 
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Little update-

The older motor mount brackets don't work on the 2F motor. I got a couple of motor mounts off of a MUD member switching a 2F for a SBC. I replaced the left front motor mount as that one gets the most wear. As Brett mentioned the rear drive shaft won't work with the later model driveshaft, so I'm using a late model driveshaft.


I'm looking at the front of the 2F waterpump, pulley configuration vs. the F waterpump, pulley. The 2F is about 3-4 inches longer. I think that's a problem. Anyone know how much clearence between a 1F fan and the radiator? What can I do to accomidate this issue?


Will a F water pump work on a 2F motor?


Thanks


Seth
 
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Why not just weld the mounts to the frame? I'm building a rear x-member mount for my 420 3-spd. combo (for whatever reason) and am welding the mounts to the frame. Actually, I'm welding the mounts to some long 4"x 1/4"x8"long plates, then welding those to the frame.
 
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RUSH55 said:
Why not just weld the mounts to the frame?
Weld which mounts to the frame? I was talking about mis-matched issues with the block, not the frame. Bolting to the Frame won't be an issue for me


I'm not sure I'd want to go against a standard in the auto industry. Motor mounts seem to prevalent on a lot of vehicles.
 

cruiserbrett

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The engine should sit in the same spot as the F, and while the F engine pulley is shorter, the fan position should be pretty much the same. 1975-79 FJ55's had the 2F in the engine compartment and ran mech. fans so you should have no trouble. I would guess if you are finding that the cooling package of the engine is longer that you have a clutch fan setup on the early 2F no clutch water pump which would make your fan stick out about 2" too far. Easy way to tell: look at the water pump pulley, and see if there is a sort of dome that protrudes from the forwardmost pulley, ending where the fan bolts on. No clutch waterpumps have a dome that sticks out, and a waterpump that is longer from fan mounting surface to block than the clutched waterpump. Clutch style fan water pump pulley actually have the fan clutch mounting surface sort of recessed in relation to the forward most groove. Just something to check.

Got pics?
 
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did you tell us what year 2F ??

if its a clutch fan it wont fit, you need the mech, non clutch fan AND matching water pump then you wont have any probs with fitment.


P.S. the whole unit will slide in from the front no problem, it gets a little tight between the "tangs" but it'll go.
 
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RHINO said:
did you tell us what year 2F ??
No, I didn't. Good Point. It's an '85 2F with a Clutch Fan. I assumed ( wrongly) that all 2F's came with clutch fans.

I was able to track down a OEM short water pump, with an outlet for the oil cooler. I guess that will be my next purchase after I replace the oil pan that was sold to me used, but in supposed good working order... :mad:

I'm going to need one of those cranks that people use when they install a Tranny, to adjust the angles as I put the motor, tranny, and t-case into the rig. The front bumper will need to come off too to make room for the hoist.
 

fj55-100

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Dude ,
you are welcome to borrow mine ,
Jason sent me an email today to find out if i could cruise by tomorrow/teusday to divvy up our accounts , teusday is our club meeting /but i can miss it if needed ,,or i suggested he roll on up to ck us out , either way your welcome to any tools you need

fj55-100
Evan
 
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I was talking about the mounts for your rear x-member, the ones you were talking about drilling holes for.
 
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PV i just put a 83 2F/tranny/split case in my 76 pig, i need some help wiring the alt and electric dizzy to the pig chassis (i suck with wiring). what do you have to share?
 
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RHINO said:
PV i just put a 83 2F/tranny/split case in my 76 pig, i need some help wiring the alt and electric dizzy to the pig chassis (i suck with wiring). what do you have to share?

I bought the Man-A-Fre DUI unit, just for that reason... 1 wire and forget the rest. I'll have to look through my Pirate4x4 PM log. I contacted someone about 8 months about this issue. Let me see....

Here's what someone on PBB named ryan aka pug told me

PUG said:
So you will have three wires on the back of the FJ60 Alt. one will be the main lug that attaches to the heavy wire going to the battery for chanrging. one that is labeled "Ig" that needs to see +12V when the ignition is in the "ON" position, and the third is a field wire. this one will jump directly to the big battery lug that I mentioned in the first connection. This is the wire that needs to have a diode placed inline with it. You can buy it at radio shack, the part number is 276-1661 and remember that the stripe on the diode goes TOWARD that alternator. To check it, use a Voltmeter and probe the battery itself. you will see somewhere between 13 and 14.4 volts if the alternator is charging correctly. if it is in the 12 volt range, you probably still have some work to do. If you don't use the diolde, the alternator will backfeed into the electrical system of the cruiser and it will remain running. you will have to unplug the coil or the alternator in order to shut it off. HTH
 
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PVCruiser said:
I bought the Man-A-Fre DUI unit, just for that reason... 1 wire and forget the rest.


i put a HEI in my 75, it was gravy and is absolutely fantastic, you'll really like the DUI. thanks for the link on the alt :beer:
 
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RUSH55 said:
I was talking about the mounts for your rear x-member, the ones you were talking about drilling holes for.
I'm assuming that you're using a '60 series crossmember cut down. If so, you probably don't want to weld those in unless you have ALOT of room above the tranny/transfer. The tranny needs to go up a good 2" or more to get the mount out unless you can unbolt the side mounts.
 

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