H42 and transfer case Rebuild - a few questions (2 Viewers)

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I have a couple different editions of the FSM. The new one seems to omit some things. Let me double check when I get home, but I thought I had the input/bearing retainer installed and didn’t check the clearance till the end of the assembly (as I pressed the main stack of gears in place). I’m going off memory and that’s about as reliable as a weather forecast these days.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks! I'll double check too, but I've been following it step by step, only changing when I don't have the SST required.

 

[fourlow&go]

A cheap harbor freight press is your friend here. Really, I've done a few of these and hammering them together is difficult, as you are experiencing with the thrust washer. Get a good dollop of grease behind the thrust washer and press it onto the pin and first gear, that may hold it in place while you tap away. When it comes to installing the main shaft input, pilot bearings and synchro you will want the press. Nothing worse than having all the pilot bearings fall out while it's half assembled

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I use a harbor freight press like @fourlow&go I also remember it’s awkward as hell with all that weight turned sideways on end.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks guys. So something like this? 12 ton H-Frame Industrial Heavy Duty Floor Shop Press Do I need one that big?

I've never used one so trying to picture how it would work. I can go watch some videos I guess

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

That looks like the one I have. I’ve used it for so many drivetrain projects. I can’t imagine not having one.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Glanced over some of my manuals and read through your entire thread. Pickup some thickness gauges if you don’t already have them. You may need to order snap rings to get the correct thrust clearances depending on what you find after checking 2nd & 3rd are within limits. Not sure what’s included in your rebuild kit.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. I do have thickness gauges and have been using them as instructed in the fsm. I am just putting the snap rings back in exactly as they came out, assuming they are correct...

Rebuild kit doesn’t include new ones (other than on the new bearings).

I’ll probably pick up a press this week. Should have just done it a long time ago...would have helped with other stuff.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks for the help guys. Do you have any pics or know of any videos that show how to use the press when dealing with the whole transmission case, shafts, and all the gears? I've been searching youtube, but haven't been able to find anything really. Would like to understand how I am supposed to do it before I go out and purchase. Just having a hard time envisioning it. All the videos just show installing bearings outside of a housing...how is it used to press the bearing into the housing?

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

It’s a bit of trial & error setting the height correctly to compensate for the reach for the ram. The input shaft end is facing downward. I can’t remember orientation of the press plates to support the input side/weight of the transmission. Maybe others can chime in.

 

[Curtice]

Well, I am trying to drive the output shaft bearing onto the shaft, and into the housing at the same time. Thats probably one thing I'll need to change. I did it that way because I saw other rebuild threads do that (when we don't have a press or SST).

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The counter shaft will need to be in there before you press it on too. While pressing the output bearing, I had the thickness gauge in place (1st & sleeve) to make sure I didn’t over do it.

I didn’t have the SST’s for the install. I found other things to substitute.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. I do have the counter shaft in.

So as I said, I have been driving the bearing into the housing and onto the output shaft at the same time. When I get a press, how does this work? Seems like I would still have to do it that way?

Really appreciate all the advice!

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Update/Afterthoughts:

Now that I’m thinking about it some more. Each of the press plates will have a semicircle cut on one of the sides. Use both of them with the semicircular sections of the press plates providing clearance for the output shaft while supporting the bearing. The ram at the top of the press should be long enough to reach the input side of the stack through the transmission case.

I’ll take some pictures of my shop press with the press plates and upload it later today.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks a bunch. I think that makes sense. Pictures would help a ton if you don’t mind.

I guess I really just need to get the press and get it set up, then I can start messing with it. Gonna try to get to HF on Thursday.

 

[rflegal]

In the middle of finishing the very same on my H42. X2 on SuperDuperCruiser cmments. A press is your friend for life for so much.

Toyota still sells the c-clips but you will have to research thicknesses to get the right part nos. Best to look up on line and get the parts Nos. then go to the local.

They don't have the detent springs though, but SOR does.

For lube, I used Assemblee Goo as a prelube on putting it back together. First time using it - cool stuff. Messy, but holds things together really well as you assemble. Especially that thrust washer - "glues" it to the assembly. Actually used on engine timing gears as assembly lube too.

 

[Curtice]

Great tips. If you got any pics of your work here, would love to see them.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Here’s my 15+ years old Harbor Freight special:

 

[Curtice]

Ok cool. So place the whole case, output shaft going down through the circular gap in those plates, but the bearing resting on the plates. Then drive the ram down to the input side?

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

That’s what I was thinking. The FSM has the input next in the reassembly sequence. So, be aware of what bits will need to be in place for steps later in the sequence.