h/g off. looks like #1 and #6!

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semlin

curmudgeon
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so it's off. #1 is clearly cleaned by something but #6 looks shot too and there are crusties.

here are some photos

first, here is #1,2,3 from above. Hard to see on this photo but the h/g ring on #1 is cracked at about 10 past 6 o'clock. The covered opening at that point has also come apart although I can't clearly see where the coolant got in.


next, here is a close up of the #1 gasket off showing the crack and missing cover material at 7 o'clock.

finally here is an overhead of #1-4. notice the red coolant on the gasket. I assume this just drips out of the head when you remove it or else there was coolant everywhere :eek:
#123above.jpg
#1gasket.jpg
#1-4overhead.jpg
 
now for #6

first here is a shot with the gasket still on. you can't see much except that it is a mess.

second is #6 gasket off. You can see the triangular passages at 11 o clock and 2 o colock are distorted, especially 11 o 'clock,


finally is a side view with the gasket off and hopefully you can see the crusty at around 12 o'clock
#6withcoolant.jpg
#6gasket.jpg
#6blocksidecrust.jpg
 
and last here is an overhead shot for fun
overall.jpg
 
Well done Semlin. The first doubly blown HG. You said at the start you overheated the motor so that may have contributed. I'll look forward to the pics as it goes back together. I've got mine self scheduled for the fall of '06, assuming it survives this summer.
 
What is blocking the coolant passages in the gasket? Is it sludge? Is it gasket material that should have been punched out when the gasket was manufactured? Something else? The four oval openings around each cylinder should be open and clear, right? Can see similar problem on turbocruisers pictures. Your pictures are much clearer and look to be worse. What is that material blocking the passages? Or are the passages supposed to be mostly blocked by the gasket?
 
Rich said:
What is blocking the coolant passages in the gasket? Is it sludge? Is it gasket material that should have been punched out when the gasket was manufactured? Something else? The four oval openings around each cylinder should be open and clear, right? Can see similar problem on turbocruisers pictures. Your pictures are much clearer and look to be worse. What is that material blocking the passages? Or are the passages supposed to be mostly blocked by the gasket?

Yes please. My question exactly.

Curtis
 
I will look again but I think those blocked openings are all part of the gasket design. the 11 o clock triangle on the #6 was supposed to be open but kind of shredded and the 7 o'clock on #1 was supposed to be blocked but half the material was gone (might have torn away when pulling head off)

there was zero grey sludge in my overflow or in my rad. i had a little last time I flushed.
 
Semlin, what is your cost for the HG replacement?
 
Semlin

I don't recall - had you done any oil analysis and if so, did it show any water or glycol?

thanks,
 
So the stock gasket is graphite type... is the newer/replacement version multilayer steel MLS?

Is the new one a Toyota head gasket or another vendor?
 
PDoyle said:
Semlin, what is your cost for the HG replacement?

well I've dropped a little over $500 with Dan but $122 was a new fan clutch which is "unrelated" PM, and add a chunk more for new chain tensioner, alt. brushes, all new hoses, and starter contacts which are optional. i'd also previously purchased a fuel filter and fuel pump regulator which are going in now.

also dropped C$195 to clean the injectors and rail (the flow was unchanged :rolleyes: so looks like techron works good for that although it did bupkis on the carbon build up)

will drop C$300 or so to test, clean and shave the head. will pay some more if it needs a valve grind.

dropped C$100 or so for tools and supplies.
 
I have a new head gasket and am wondering what are the big improvements?
How many miles on your cruiser?
Thanks
 
spent a couple of hours today cleaning off the block getting ready for tomorrow. tougher job than expected. Some interesting observations

1. I had a lot of carbon accumulation on the block right under the headgasket cylinder rings on the exhaust side of the block. It looks to me pretty clear that carbon was getting under the head gasket rings on all 6 cylinders on that side.

2. i had carbon build up about 3/8" down on the cylinder walls but only right at 12 o'clock and between 3 and 6 o'clock. I assume this must somehow relate to the valve firing sequence.

3. my #1 cylinder is slightly dinged on top where it was impacting the cracked head gasket ring at 7 o'clock in the photo above. hopefully this does no harm.

4. there was a ton of carbon build up on the block face around the 2 o clock position in the #6 cylinder. this is on the outside of the "red ring". I saw crusties on the block at 1 o'clock on #6 where the triangular opening is found.

my thinking now is that I was gradually blowing my h/g at #6 when I boiled it dry and instantly blew it at #1. my h/g was also failing generally around the cylinder rings. I had no coolant usage before this.
 
Just saw the thread. Was on vacation when you posted it. Looks like lots of carbon build up like i had. Now I know why you wanted pics of my block.

I had lots of carbon in the ring pacs causeing groves. Other than an engine overhaul, the only thing I have found is the AutoRx stuff they talk about on bobistheoilguy.com. I am about 150 miles from completing my first cycle. Because of the carbon buildup I am going to do 2 cycles. I have noticed some improvement in gas mileage and I will post results when I am complete. I assume that the gas mileage improvement is based on reducing the carbon buildup making it easier for the piston and helping it perform back close to stock.

Before Robbie did all the work I was getting about 11 MPG. When Robbie completed the job and replaced the fuel injectors, I was averaging in the high 12's. In the last 500 miles, I seem to be averaging in the mid 13's. Same type of mix driving to and from work. So, it "appears" to be reducing the obstruction and allowing the engine to perform closer to spec. I will have a better feel after I complete the second cycle about mid May.

Next weekend, I drain the rinse on the first cycle.

I am not smart enough to know if this stuff is really any good, but I needed to get the carbon out of the ring packs and there was nothing else to try. Check this forum for lots of info. BTW the guy named Frank is the manufacturer and could learn some people skills.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=5
 
Semlin said:
2. i had carbon build up about 3/8" down on the cylinder walls but only right at 12 o'clock and between 3 and 6 o'clock. I assume this must somehow relate to the valve firing sequence.

3. my #1 cylinder is slightly dinged on top where it was impacting the cracked head gasket ring at 7 o'clock in the photo above. hopefully this does no harm.
.


2. I recently looked at my #6 with a bore scope and mine also had a good bit of carbon build up at the top of the cylinder walls above where the rings travel.

3. How deep? Might be an ignition point or worse a stress riser. You might consider getting in there with something like a riffle file and blending that ding out to a smooth radius. Mask off the cylinder wall near there to protect it
 
Now way I was going to take the time to read 14 pages...

I can tell you that the majority of folks on BITOG who have used AutoRx, according to instructions, are satisfied with it.

It is not a magic bullet. But it will safely and slowly dissolve carbon deposits and sludge any place in contact with oil.
 
speyrod said:
I have read about ARX and am not much of a believe in "magic bullets". I followed Romers like and read this entire thread http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94785&page=1
this poor guy used 3 cycles of ARX look at the pics in the later pages not much of a change.

I am not saying this stuff works or not, but it would seem to me that since he had that huge a sludge problem at 37,000 miles that something else is going on.

I am using it as there is no alternative (carbon in ring pacs) with the exception on an engine overhaul and I don't need that.

There are several people that do oil analysis (so they say) for a living over there that really like this stuff. If it doesn't work, I am out a few $$.
 

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