Builds GW Nugget's Family Haulin Lx450 build (3 Viewers)

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@baldilocks Steve you we right you saved me a lot of time. @brosky was on the spot also.

After a high preasure power steering replacement my pump was pissed off at me. I cycled the steering like 100 times while motor off & on. The fluid in the reservoir was frothing.
After a few text back & forth with @baldilocks he told me to replace the low side O-ring..... Zap Bam Pow she is all good. Its amazing how awesome these 80s are but something as silly as a O-ring can put the whole rig in a tail spin...

I just got one at the local parts store.
0.12" did the job.
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Milestar Patagonia M/T Mud-Terrain Tire.

$249 38X13.50R17 C/6 ply
$244
37X12.50R17 D/8 ply

My 37x12.5 ST MAXX are D ~ 13.1" wide ~ 36.9" tall ~ tread width 10.4" ~ measured on 10" rim ~ 79#s ~ 3525@50psi
MileStar 38X13.50R17 C/6 ~ 13.5" wide ~ 37.8" tall ~ tread width 10.8" ~ measured on 11" rim ~ 78#s ~ 3000@35psi
MileStar 37X1372.50R17 D/8 ~ 12.5" wide ~ 36.8" tall ~ tread width Skinny ~ measured on 10" rim ~ 72#s ~ 3525@50psi
 
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@baldilocks Steve you we right you saved me a lot of time. @brosky was on the spot also.

After a high preasure power steering replacement my pump was pissed off at me. I cycled the steering like 100 times while motor off & on. The fluid in the reservoir was frothing.
After a few text back & forth with @baldilocks he told me to replace the low side O-ring..... Zap Bam Pow she is all good. Its amazing how awesome these 80s are but something as silly as a O-ring can put the whole rig in a tail spin...

I just got one at the local parts store.
.012" did the job.

View attachment 2257109















Milestar Patagonia M/T Mud-Terrain Tire.

$249 38X13.50R17 C/6 ply
$244
37X12.50R17 D/8 ply

My 37x12.5 ST MAXX are D ~ 13.1" wide ~ 36.9" tall ~ tread width 10.4" ~ measured on 10" rim ~ 79#s ~ 3525@50psi
MileStar 38X13.50R17 C/6 ~ 13.5" wide ~ 37.8" tall ~ tread width 10.8" ~ measured on 11" rim ~ 83#s ~ 3000@35psi
MileStar 37X1372.50R17 D/8 ~ 12.5" wide ~ 36.8" tall ~ tread width Skinny ~ measured on 10" rim ~ 72#s ~ 3525@50psi
Be a good idea to 1 or 2 of those O-rings as trail spares.
 
Be a good idea to 1 or 2 of those O-rings as trail spares.
I bought a extra one. The hard part is were to put it so I can find it later. :hmm:
 
@baldilocks Steve you we right you saved me a lot of time. @brosky was on the spot also.

After a high preasure power steering replacement my pump was pissed off at me. I cycled the steering like 100 times while motor off & on. The fluid in the reservoir was frothing.
After a few text back & forth with @baldilocks he told me to replace the low side O-ring..... Zap Bam Pow she is all good. Its amazing how awesome these 80s are but something as silly as a O-ring can put the whole rig in a tail spin...

I just got one at the local parts store.
.012" did the job.

View attachment 2257109
<>
Are you sure on that o-ring size...? .012" is 0.3mm... no part of that o-ring is 0.3 millimeters...
 
@bryson I was in a hurry & I didn't have my glasses on... does 0.12" sound better that's 3mm? I can change the picture & edit the above post.
 
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baldilocks, There are as many ways to build a 4x4 as there are different types of 4x4 out there to build. I have to agree with eimkeith your driveline extension & coil misalignment is a moot point. As far as moving the axle foreword whether .5", .75" or or 1" is to get tire centered in the wheel well, ( coil alignment is a bonus) or if large tire are being used 37s or larger to move the tire away from the fire wall (You point this out in your build thread) and why I moved my axle forward 1" to fit the 39s.
As far as making large tire fit, 37 or larger there basically two school of thought, Old school big lift , big bump stops extensions to keep the tires out of the sheet metal & a high center of gravity or low lift and cut the sheet metal tell the tires clears modern day low center of gravity.

Now I need to get a another cup of coffee.
Looking forward to the Dusy Steve!!!
PS I have a lot more cutting and welding to do ;)
Dusy? When are you all going?
 
Tested a set of borrowed 2.5" Dobinson front coils. I like them, they are very plush off road, yet have good road manners.
They netted a 22.25" bottom of flare measurement which is about a 2.25" lift. I have about 200 extra pounds up front.
The feel of the 2.5" 140/220/290# tapered coils are a bit softer compared to my 3"/75mm 160/260# Slinky coils.
They give a more comfortable ride on & off road. The front coils flex a bit sooner with less force to the wheel (this is what I wanted).
Now the Slinky's do better going through rough terrain at faster speeds. Bombing runs is were the Slinky suspension shines the best.
Now also keep in mind that I'm comparing 2" suspension coil to 3" suspension coil.
I'm sure it best to compare the 3.5" tapered Dobinson to the 75mm slinky during bombing runs...
Enjoy the vid!


@David Otero
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Got sum new digs...
Have about 20 miles on them.
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78+45=123lbs​
 
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Are you running the Icon 4"-6" (56511) shocks up front?
Yep, they are the Slinky valved Icon 56511 fronts & the OME Ls in the rear.
 
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@GW Nugget how's the noise level with the 2.5'' dobinsons up front (as in any extra noises from them)? Do your top coils sit even front to back or do you get more squish on one side vs the other?
Any coils that touch or stack make springy sounds...
The video should show you how they stack.
I even moved the rig up & down to show how they move.
It seems YouTube or mud is having issues with the link just looks like a pic... let me find another way...
Here is my youtube channel BigDreamInMotion
 
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I agree.
in fact, I was thinking we should get DuroBumps in on this after you come to a conclusion on lift height vs. bump length - he can conjure up various durometers to decelerate the suspension over a certain range of travel to soften up the ride - and from what I've seen so far, it appears that the 80 market doesn't have many good bump options other than spacing them...?
After your suggestion & did reach out to Curtis owner of DuroBumps via Instagram then we texted back & forth for about 3 hrs & gave him a bunch of pics & measurements. He was very interested in getting something started for the 80 series folks. We will see what comes of this, the covid vires Im sure has slowed the timeline down.
 
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Just wondering, you have any scratches on your beadlocks? Don’t look like they are ever aired past 15lbs.
 
are those a 3" drop? If so, would you be interested in trying some with a 50mm drop instead? (they'd be weld-on, though)
@brosky is trying to convince me into trying the eimkeith front control arm weld in frame mount bracket.
Drilling a 18mm hole 1" forward vs. a weld in bracket. :hmm:
I would have to drill a 18mm hole 1" forward on the frame mount like others have, but have the issue of moving the MAF brackets forward also.
@eimkeith how many of these have you sold?
I know the rear panhard weld in bracket is getting traction. @joez got his welded in.
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I would also need to find a way to move the aft two 10mm crossmember bolts forward.​

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@brosky is trying to convince me into trying the eimkeith front control arm weld in frame mount bracket.
Drilling a 18mm hole 1" forward vs. a weld in bracket. :hmm:
I would have to drill a 18mm hole 1" forward on the frame mount like others have, but have the issue of moving the MAF brackets forward also.
@eimkeith how many of these have you sold?
I know the rear panhard weld in bracket is getting traction. @joez got his welded in.
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I biffed it when I put these on the website last week - I didn't add the order page to the item menu, so no one could get to the order page. :facepalm:

I fixed it just this morning.
 
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On the rear with a 50mm/2" lift, does this require one bracket on the axle only or is a frame side bracket required as well?
 

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